Stripping Paint from a New Bright Body

[Tommy R]

Hey folks,

I've got a New Bright Jeep JK and, of course, it's metallic red. I'm going to paint it a different color and when it gets scratched, I don't want red paint showing through.

Is there an easy and effective way to safely remove the paint without harming the body? I've heard brake fluid may work? Maybe mineral spirits? These bodies are getting harder to come by and I'd prefer to use a known, proven method so I don't screw it up.

Any suggestions/experience would be much appreciated! I've been searching, but haven't found anything convincing yet.

Tommy

[Tommy R]

Bump for the morning crowd.

[JohnB]

Check out your local hobby store for a product called ELO (Easy Lift Off). You have to be patient, but the stuff works and does not effect the substrate. I used it to pull paint off of a 60s vintage slot car and it worked great.

[Tommy R]

Thanks, John, I'll look into it. Have you used it before? I'm just curious if it's thick enough to remain on a surface after application since it takes time to remove the paint. It would seem that if it's thin it'll just drip off and may not be as effective. And I don't want to have to buy enough to fully submerge a big ol' Jeep JK body!

[dasbeermeister]

Caustic soda works very well. Gloves goggles are a must when using it.

[dirk379]

I sanded my nb jk body. Total PITA but i didn't want to harm the plastic with chemicals. I tried dot3 brake fluid once, crystalized the plastic (ruined it) and really didn't lift the paint off like i was hoping. I know others have had good results with it, but i wouldn't recomend it from my experience.

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by Tommy R

Thanks, John, I'll look into it. Have you used it before? I'm just curious if it's thick enough to remain on a surface after application since it takes time to remove the paint. It would seem that if it's thin it'll just drip off and may not be as effective. And I don't want to have to buy enough to fully submerge a big ol' Jeep JK body!

It is on the thin side. I used a paint mixing pipe (kind of like a turkey baster) to periodically flood the body with ELO. Like I said, it did take awhile, but I was removing +40-year old paint from a 1/32 slot car. An old spray bottle may work better for you given the difference in scale. Hope this helps!

[Tommy R]

Ah, I see! Thanks for the info... I'll have to come up with a way to ensure the ELO doesn't get wasted. Any idea if the fumes help remove the paint or does the liquid need to be in contact with it? The reason I ask is because maybe I could seal the body in a plastic bag, along with the ELO. This wouldn't waste the ELO and hopefully the fumes would help dissolve the paint.

But I don't know if the plastic would have any ill effects from being sealed up with the chemicals like that. Maybe I'll cut off some sample parts and try them out first.

[JohnB]

I'm fairly certain it's the liquid's contact with the painted surface that does the work. It's been awhile, but I don't recall any particularly strong fumes or ordors. I'd recommend washing the JK body with soap and water once the paint lifts. So maybe the bag idea and prolonged contact is not the best. Perhaps set the JK in an aluminum foil baking pan (cheap ) while you "baste" the body. Should be able to capture most of the run-off that way. Like I mentioned earlier it may take some time.

Anyway, here's the official low-down on ELO: Testors » Accessories » Decals » ELO Paint & Decal Remover 8oz..

Usually available for $9 - $10 at your LHS.

[brianw]

please post methods and results