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Thread: Any cheap alternatives for painting lexan?

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Old 10-03-2006, 10:56 AM   #1
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Default Any cheap alternatives for painting lexan?

Ok, I just finished putting together my first TLT (first RC car ever also) and I'm going to keep it stock for a while because I'm out of funds for it right now, I already have a nice HPI wrangler body that I'll use for the final build but until that happens I'm going to use the stock TLT body just for kicks, model paint cans are expensive over here (about 15$ a pop) and there's no way I'm wasting that on the stock body,so I wanted to know if there were any other cheap alternatives. I was thinking about using regular spray paint but I think it will crack/chip easily.

I doesn't have too look perfect, but I don't want it to look like crap either. Here's a pic of my baby, all it has are rims/wheels, the rest is compeltely stock(I know the edges of the body are rough, I'll fix that with a dremel later on):
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Old 10-03-2006, 11:04 AM   #2
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My 4 yr old wanted my TLT body that I wasn't useing and he wanted to paint it himself. So I pulled a can of paint that I had from like 2 years ago. It's just a norma krylon type of paint.
It's held up fine just make sure you clean the body and dry it well.

I wouldn't be to worried about it though since you really don't care about the body much.

My first traxxas had the same type of paint job and it lasted over 5 years when I sold it. I saw it a couple of weeks ago and the paint was still good, body was smashed to hell though.
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Old 10-03-2006, 01:44 PM   #3
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15 bucks a can, holy crap. What are yall using in your paints over there in Venezuela. I don't know if it is made by Krylon or Rustoleum, its one of those brands but there is a plastic paint that one of them makes, it should work well. I would probalby go with Double J's suggestion since his lasted so long though.
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Old 10-03-2006, 07:43 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMXONR
15 bucks a can, holy crap. What are yall using in your paints over there in Venezuela. I don't know if it is made by Krylon or Rustoleum, its one of those brands but there is a plastic paint that one of them makes, it should work well. I would probalby go with Double J's suggestion since his lasted so long though.
It's exactly the same crap that you get in the US, only with a huge markup :-(.
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Old 01-02-2007, 11:42 AM   #5
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My advice is to plan on spending plenty of time with preparation. Definitely spend some time washing out the new body with dish soap or something. I did'nt last time, and I think it's why I'm having problems
I think any spraypaint would work fine, I've never encountered a spraypaint that melts or damages lexan.
I found this thread doing a search on painting - I can't keep paint on my latest body (HPI Bronco) it just flakes back off as soon as it barely rubs on a rock or something. (yes, I did paint the inside, not the outside. If a rock rubs the outside, the paint flakes off inside very easily, believe it or not) I just flexed the side "panels" and most of the paint just flaked off and made a big mess. This is Tamiya paint too, so I don't think there's an incompatability issue.
This is certainly not the first time I've painted a lexan body (more like the 20th or so) and I've never had the paint come back off this easy. I've painted bodies with Krylon or other "plain" spraypaints with good results before.
I flaked off as much paint as I could and scrubbed the body out with soap and water, now I'm putting on another few coats. Hopefully it will stick this time.

Last edited by Big Mike; 01-02-2007 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 01-03-2007, 08:44 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMXONR
15 bucks a can, holy crap. What are yall using in your paints over there in Venezuela. I don't know if it is made by Krylon or Rustoleum, its one of those brands but there is a plastic paint that one of them makes, it should work well. I would probalby go with Double J's suggestion since his lasted so long though.
Dont worry.. he pays under $.25 a gallon for gas...
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Old 01-03-2007, 11:28 AM   #7
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the real diffrence between paint made for lexan and regular paint is that that the lexan paint is more flexible when dry meaning it can take an impact better If you clean your body real good and make sure you follow the directions on the can of whatever paint you use regular spray paint works just fine...I've been using Krylon Fusion for a while now and it works really good..
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Old 02-01-2007, 05:48 AM   #8
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My local hobbie shop recomended rustoleum paint. I was looking for that od green military look and I found that the rustoleum works very well. You can also pick it up anywhere for around $5.
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Old 02-01-2007, 06:40 AM   #9
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After washing thoroughly and coating the inside 2 more times, the paint flaked off again! Just not as bad this time, but it still looked like crap after only a few rollovers and rubs against the rocks. One pack's worth of driving.
I sprayed the rest of the can on in a series of thick coats (Tamiya Coral Blue) and let it dry in front of a space heater. Then I layed a layer of clear packing tape over the inside side panels and at each end.
So far I can see places where the paint is separating from the lexan again, but the tape is holding it and keeping it from flaking all over the place and making a big mess of the chassis.
This is the last attempt for this body, now the windows are all scratched and fogged from all the masking and cleanup I've done.
Next body gets swabbed out w/ rubbing alcohol before painting...
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Old 02-01-2007, 09:07 AM   #10
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I have found out, that cleaning the body well only applies to policarbonate paints only, use any other kind i will crack and flake, unless you sand the inside of the body lightly with 1000 grit or higher sandpaper, or maybe a brillo pads will do the trick, i tried the sandpaper on a couple tlt bodies and so far it has worked great, also tried it on one buschwacker body and the paint still looks glossy and nice, you can't actually see the scuffs from the sanding, i did this because i was also tired of paying close to $10 for a small 3 oz tamiya rattle can, and the lack of availability:-(
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Old 02-01-2007, 11:50 AM   #11
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^^ Beat me to it. If regular paint doesn't have a "keyed" surface to grab on to, then it simply won't.
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Old 02-01-2007, 01:17 PM   #12
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Krylon Fusion?
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Old 02-01-2007, 05:05 PM   #13
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Fusion is not polycarbonate specific, any other kind of paint will require the sanding/ prepping of the body
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Old 02-03-2007, 12:17 AM   #14
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Thumbs up Find.....

Wallmart has been selling some decent paints for great prices lately also....

Marty
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Old 02-03-2007, 12:16 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmarty
Wallmart has been selling some decent paints for great prices lately also....

Marty

theres no wallmarts in venezuela
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Old 02-03-2007, 12:22 PM   #16
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Why not just go ahead and get the color paint of the correct type that you plan on using for the Jeep body?
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Old 02-03-2007, 12:42 PM   #17
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hi jaczor

you can get pactra paints at plaza las americas 2 for 25000bs each...thats like 8$

here are some photos of my tlt that i paint with pactra paints...is aslo the first body i have ever paint

thats was after 3 packs of batteries....and some rollovers...




note:click the photos


if you need more informations just pm me or email me

note: mi mail es tava_90@hotmail.com o agregame al msn

salu2

Last edited by andres-tavares; 02-04-2007 at 12:24 PM.
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Old 02-03-2007, 03:14 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pvtjrt01550
...I've been using Krylon Fusion for a while now and it works really good..
Great tip. I've been wanting to do up a hummer body in OD or a desert type brown. May have to give Krylon fusion's camo series a try.
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Old 02-07-2007, 03:00 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrick_b
Great tip. I've been wanting to do up a hummer body in OD or a desert type brown. May have to give Krylon fusion's camo series a try.
We've been using fusion on 4 wheeler plastic for a while now and seems to hold up real good. As always, the prep work is what makes or breaks the finished product. Just be patient and take your time.
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Old 02-07-2007, 07:08 PM   #20
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Automotive spray paints (lacquer) work on Lexan as well. Lots of colors to choose from, too.
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