Salt technique

[stopmojim]

Hey guys, I'm trying the "salt technique" to get a rust effect on a current build for the first time. From what I can find, one simply coats the sealed base coat with water, liberally apply salt where you want rust, let dry, paint, then remove the salt and seal. My problem is that I cannot get an even coat of water on the base coat. The water just beads up. I used Tamiya flat clear as a sealant. Do I have to wait 6 months for a complete base coat cure or do I add something to the water? I'm getting no where fast here.

[M and M]

I'm no expert with salt technique, but what I want when I've done it is exactly what you say is your problem. What I wanted was random shapes in the area of choice, and the salt just sticks there. It then leaves room for "normal" paint areas, as if the paint has flaked off from corrosion rust, ie, rust from under the paint, not rust from say scratches.


Maybe, sot of total rust from say desert sand blasting is what your after? I think, if that's the case then the salt method isn't the best, say something like this

[stopmojim]

Originally Posted by M and M

I'm no expert with salt technique, but what I want when I've done it is exactly what you say is your problem. What I wanted was random shapes in the area of choice, and the salt just sticks there. It then leaves room for "normal" paint areas, as if the paint has flaked off from corrosion rust, ie, rust from under the paint, not rust from say scratches.


Maybe, sot of total rust from say desert sand blasting is what your after? I think, if that's the case then the salt method isn't the best, say something like this

I've seen the technique done many times on YouTube and the guys always get a smooth coat of water over the surface. See, if it beads up, I don't get to choose where the salt goes and it's too much water puddled in places instead of an even coat for the salt to stick to.

Every "Pro" modeler I've seen does it that way. Or, they do the hairspray technique which doesn't use salt. It just puts a layer of hairspray between the base coat and the finish coat that can be easily rubbed off with a brush where you want rust to show through.

I've seen hair spray used instead of water and salt added before it dries, which is a combination of the two and it seems to work. I've also seen some guys sprinkle the salt on the base coat before it dries and don't need water or hairspray to get the effect they want.

I do a a lot of modeling, but I haven't tried this technique yet. I guess I need to experiment on scrap pieces first. I was hoping some of the expert painters on here may know how to get the water on there better as it looks like what I'm going for when I see YouTube gurus do it.

Oh, and btw, I can't see your pics.

[M and M]

Sorry about the pics..I've just logged on and thd pics are there ok, and in your reply!

[stopmojim]

Originally Posted by M and M

Sorry about the pics..I've just logged on and thd pics are there ok, and in your reply!

Yes, I see them now .

Great work there too!
That's pretty much what I'm going for but a bit more simplified for a micro build.


The broken headlight is a great detail. I love the way the fender looks too. Is this the salt technique with sanding and additional highlights added? Looks like you did a primer pass in there too?

[M and M]

Sort of..a mixture really. After years, to many to think of really, of working on 60s and70s rust magnets and then restoring classic cars, I finally started actually looking at rust when I retired and started this stuff ! I work on the principle of rust coming from on top of damaged paint and corrosion coming through, so I started with all the mix of rust colours spayed on first, some from a distance with the can 'dribling' to leave it rough and splattered, all Tamiya stuff. Then pick out the corrosion areas, grind them from the back, wet and salt them. Surface tension of the water is what I think your trying to overcome, so just rub it in ( nasty tip is I've used spit before now I tight places !) Then I just spray my final colour, just two coats, and, when dry wet sand it with 280/ 600 paper. the base colours come through a rust. the salted areas I just pick at and use a fine brass wire brush. Tamiya powders in flat clear to highlight and in tiny doses Modelmates rust effect, then seal with flat clear. Playing around on scrap is essential for me. I'm trying liquid mask with salt at the moment. This scratch built Bantam trailer was my first salt rust attempt, but as I said, no expert just playing about ( you should see my failures!!!

[stopmojim]

Beautiful work!

Looks like I have some practicing to do.
Yes, surface tension seems the issue, I'll try a few things to minimize it. I was expecting a simple job of this, but I hadn't realized how many different approaches there are.

Thanks for the advice!

[imthatguy]

I've found it helpful to use coarse Kosher salt, rather than simple table salt. The big chunks stick to even the finest spray of water.

[M and M]

Agree with the salt, should have said, also on salt areas, the more coats the better 'lift' of paint.. as on the front of the F100. Should also have said use the lightest rust colour spray first, I used tamiya bright orange, and you can use a coat of matt clear between colurs for more definition of shades. Oh and give plenty of drying time.. I'm sure there is more but I get over excited when I'm doing it! Best of luck.