Painting woes

[soze]

Originally Posted by Browneye

Hmmm...Shall I sacrifice a $55 body to test it out???

Airbrush? Bring it over I'll school ya.

Readers Digest version...

They're really quite easy, and I'm sure if you can build RC's you can look at a vid or two and get the hang of it.

You need a clean and dry source of air - doesn't take that much for an airbrush. Paint is generally thinned down from 10-50%, depending on the type of paint. If you use a model-specific paint they'll generally tell you recommended thinners and how much. For water-based acrylics rubbing alcohol is the ticket. Dries faster, uses less, more pure and less viscous than water.

For lacquers and solvent based acrylic enamel, like automotive enamels, acetone can usually be used in lieu of specialty thinners. Saves you some $$ for getting basic materials on hand.

I have always and only used Paasche VL and naturally think they're the best, but either way it should come with an instruction booklet on setting air pressure. You'll want a quick-disconnect for your hose so you can take it off the air supply easily.

Paasche comes with 3 nozzles - from fine to medium to more of an overall - just lets more paint through. The finest you can write cursive like a fountain pen. Great for fine detailing and graphic artwork type painting.

I'm 6 miles north of Disneyland.

Sorry for the thread-jack...but it kinda fits. An airbrush is the answer for detailing body work where a spray-can is not.

Ah, I'm just down the 5fwy in Irvine.

I have an Iwata Eclipse CS, and their smartjet compressor I think it was.

I think I just need to figure out what paint to buy. I was looking at the Parma Faskolor which is water based acrylic I think? Like I said, the whole reason for me getting an airbrush was because of the wife complaining of off-gassing fumes from spray cans that can linger for a while. (I can't even keep R/C Tires in the house if they're not sealed in a bag... she can smell them).

Anyway, I think I need to buy nozzles, paint.... and just get some courage to actually test it out.

[Browneye]

Yes. Experience starts when you begin.

If'n you ever get up to Anaheim plan a stop into Coast AirBrush. Very cool place, lots of supplies too.

[soze]

Originally Posted by Browneye

Yes. Experience starts when you begin.

If'n you ever get up to Anaheim plan a stop into Coast AirBrush. Very cool place, lots of supplies too.

I may have to ask you mixture questions, etc. when I actually get around to it. How well does airbrushing dry in colder weather?

Spray canning during this time of year is a no/no for me. Even if I do get the bottle warmed up enough to do smooth coats... the off-gassing lingers all winter long until the Summer sun comes around to bake it off.

[sawback]

Haha Woes not even close

One time I was painting a complicated masking job and it poured rain, got all crappy, then i ran inside and slipped an fell on the body face down, crushing it and grass got all over the place, then I just painted it with some terclad that acted more like airplane paint remover and it turned out like total junk and weight a tone with some nasty smell, when I drilled the body holes I forgot to change the position and then there was 8x the holes needed, drilled a giant hole for the fake blower to stand out but the cut out was way to big to attach it so i just used some double sided tape and it peeled back a bunch of paint. When i drilled the holes for the light buckets i drilled into the wireing harness and it got all raveled up and ripped the reciver apart, So in the end I just mounted it on a savage for a basher so of course it needed another 4 holes so it just barley fit with the wheels totally out of alinement and with 12 random body holes.

So that is a long story but it at least will make some feel better

[SpudWrench]

Originally Posted by Browneye

Hmmm...Shall I sacrifice a $55 body to test it out???

Airbrush? Bring it over I'll school ya.

Readers Digest version...

They're really quite easy, and I'm sure if you can build RC's you can look at a vid or two and get the hang of it.

You need a clean and dry source of air - doesn't take that much for an airbrush. Paint is generally thinned down from 10-50%, depending on the type of paint. If you use a model-specific paint they'll generally tell you recommended thinners and how much. For water-based acrylics rubbing alcohol is the ticket. Dries faster, uses less, more pure and less viscous than water.

For lacquers and solvent based acrylic enamel, like automotive enamels, acetone can usually be used in lieu of specialty thinners. Saves you some $$ for getting basic materials on hand.

I have always and only used Paasche VL and naturally think they're the best, but either way it should come with an instruction booklet on setting air pressure. You'll want a quick-disconnect for your hose so you can take it off the air supply easily.

Paasche comes with 3 nozzles - from fine to medium to more of an overall - just lets more paint through. The finest you can write cursive like a fountain pen. Great for fine detailing and graphic artwork type painting.

I'm 6 miles north of Disneyland.

Sorry for the thread-jack...but it kinda fits. An airbrush is the answer for detailing body work where a spray-can is not.

I've had several airbrush in the past they are not for me. I prefer to spray out a can and throw it away no cleaning no maintenance. I dont have time for all that. I agree you can do more with them and get better results then a can.

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[Browneye]

Lol. Ya, got started in the 70’s, hobbiest painter for 50 years. Did some car and bike stuff too.
Its all a little fiddly. I used to do seminars for scale aircraft.
I actually got more use out of a “touch-up gun”.

[SpudWrench]

Ended up spraying a few coats of matte clear over the outside and it really did the trick to make it look weathered and flat.

Now if looks a lot more natural and I'm pretty happy with it. Going to add some rust next

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[kincer]

That came out really nice! Got any pics of it on the chassis?

[SpudWrench]

I just finished it going to take some later today

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[SpudWrench]

Here it is on the chassis

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[soze]

Came out good! Did the matte clear make those fenders cloudy or was that something you did on your own? I'll be needing flat clear to give a black part a flat look, but I don't want it cloudy.

[SpudWrench]

Originally Posted by soze

Came out good! Did the matte clear make those fenders cloudy or was that something you did on your own? I'll be needing flat clear to give a black part a flat look, but I don't want it cloudy.

Its cloudy because I used too many coats

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