10-09-2008, 03:53 PM | #1 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: www.rccrawler.com
Posts: 1,113
| TA-05 Anyone?
got my TA05 this week and need to ask ; 1. When I look for wheels and tires which measurements do I need to follow? 2. Some wheels I've seen online mention "offset 6mm or 4mm" does this mean they stand out wider regardless to tire size? 3. Are most tire widths the same and do I need to match the wheel width to the tire width ? 4. I have a 10kg MG946R TowerPro servo spare at the moment will this do? What is an ideal servo for these cars? I'm pretty green on this build ... Please post some pictures of your TA-05s too!!! |
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10-09-2008, 04:17 PM | #2 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Earth
Posts: 151
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dude, green blue red and black text is HELL on the eyes. but to answer your questions, you would want to look for a 1.9" diameter touring car rim/tire with a 12mm hex, usually about either 24 or 26mm wide. the +4mm or +6mm refers to wheel offset. a +6mm offset rim on a 190mm wide touring car will put the track width at about 200mm wide, which fits nitro touring car bodies, or some wide bodies for electric TCs. as for tire width, you want the tire width and rim width to be within 2mm of each other, with the tire being wider. TC tires are low profile enough that you don't have a lot of sidewall to bulge in or out to help compensate for rim width differences. too narrow a wheel for your tire width and it's going to bulge the contact patch out (think motorcycle tire as opposed to a street car tire) which is going to KILL your grip and will make the tire wear very unevenly unless you have virtually no camber change as the suspension cycles and a car set up with a lot of body roll (neither of which strike me as being traits of the TA-05) and you run a VERY twisty circuit. too narrow a tire for a given wheel width and the contact patch will bulge inward, and you will effectively be running on the shoulder of the tire, and grip will suffer severely because of it, and you will get lots of wear on the shoulder of the tire and virtually none on the intended contact patch. it may get to the point that you wear clean through the shoulder of the tire and seperate the contact patch from the sidewall, if you put enough power to the tire and spin it enough. as for the servo, no clue, but if you've got it and it works, run it. I run a Futaba S3350 in my RS4 rally which has seen TC duties for a while and it is holding up just fine. a bit overkill for a TC, yes, but it gets the job done and I never have to worry about not having enough torque to turn the wheels
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10-09-2008, 04:45 PM | #3 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: www.rccrawler.com
Posts: 1,113
| Quote:
That's quite an answer there you're obviously into these!!!!! got any photos or links on your RS4 ? | |
10-09-2008, 05:49 PM | #4 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Japan
Posts: 385
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Here's a couple of pics of my TA05 chassis, mostly set up for drift...first one is a hopped up TA05R Second is a TA05 with the RC Square drift conversion...great chassis! For offset avoid zero offset as you will find the sus arms will "drag" on the inside of the rim. Before deciding on offset perhaps decide ona body and match the offset accordingly. Any 12mm hub wheel from Yokomo, HPI, Speed Way Pal, Square etc should fit. 26mm gives you a few more tyre options depending on what you want to do with the chassis. |
10-09-2008, 06:17 PM | #5 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: www.rccrawler.com
Posts: 1,113
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Thanks Genki , the RC Square chassis does look nice No idea what makes it a drift chassis yet though as for my TA05 I will get used to it on the flatter roads around my neighborhood first so I gotta go with some deeper grooved tires until I find a track (and some free time:-(). How about overall height of the wheels and tires for these, are they roughly the same? Also the overall height of the chassis ,can it be adjusted by spring tension or wheel/tire height? Or does it usually stay the same height regardless to the terrain ? |
10-12-2008, 03:06 PM | #6 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Earth
Posts: 151
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ride height is a product of spring weight, preload, shock mount position, adjustment of droop screws (provided your chassis has them. they have the same effect as limiting straps on a 1:1's suspension) and to a lesser extent, tire height (this plays more effect in the M-chassis cars than in touring cars, though, seeing as M-chassis have regular size and 60D tires, which are more or less the same height as a regular TC tire from what I've gathered). everything else remaining the same, more preload will net you more ride height until you top out the suspension on the droop screws, or top out the shocks. everything else being the same, a stiffer spring will get the same result, up until you top out the suspension, either on droop screws or the shocks. also, shock mount position plays a role, although that more affects how progressive the shocks feel (aka how much it feels like the spring weight changes as you compress the suspension, or how much the dampening feels like it changes over the course of the suspension stroke) than ride height. droop screws, well, they just control how much droop you have from ride height, but your car is going to handle like junk if the car is on the droop screws at ride height, or so I've heard (never dealt with droop screws while setting up my RS4 Rally before). tire height isn't something you'll really have to deal with much in touring cars as far as drifting is concerned, since most drift tires are about as tall as rubber slicks for TCs. don't have many/any pics of the RS4 rally, though. at least not from the track. it's been over a year since I've raced it, and I didn't have the presence of mind to photographically document any of the race meetings
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10-12-2008, 04:06 PM | #7 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Acworth
Posts: 31
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The biggest question is exactly what do you plan on doing with the car. Is it a basher or do you plan on racing it. The tao5 is a more than capable club racer if setup properly. And what makes a drift chassis is weight distribution of the electronics...which really doesn't mean any thing. Any touring car can be a drift car with a minimal setup. Its all in how you drive. |
10-12-2008, 09:46 PM | #8 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: www.rccrawler.com
Posts: 1,113
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Until I get used to it it will be a high speed brasher car parks, street etc ...Its my first TC so since I've never driven one I want to get a good feel for it and see which direction I want to go into . All I know is that I also want to try some high speed runs with it ...hopefully 60mph + Tire /wheel recommendations??? |
10-12-2008, 10:36 PM | #9 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Ventura, Ca
Posts: 528
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Get some Sorex premounted tires in a 36 or 32 compound. 32 if its cold where you live, 36 is for a bit warmer. That should get ya a good start at some speed runs http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...?catmainid=359 |
10-13-2008, 03:42 AM | #10 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Acworth
Posts: 31
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I agree with rock smith. Premounts will last quite a while and are race tires so will provide you with the most amount of grip. Also they are belted so they won't balloon on you during speed runs. Shoot me a pm I have a couple sets of premounts that I don't plan on using any more I can get to you cheap
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10-19-2008, 10:18 AM | #11 |
Newbie Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Long Island
Posts: 0
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Hey Slyp Dawg, I noticed you have alot of knowledge about the Ta-05, so I figured I'd ask you. I own a TA-05 IFS with a brushless system. I was just wondering what adjustments I should make to drive my car on unprepped surfaces, such as streets and parking lots. I am fairly new to adjustments such as droop and dampers/camber/toe. I am looking for the maximum ride height without sacrificing stability and traction. What do you think? Anything is appreciated, thank you. |
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