Bully RTR Weight Loss Diet

[Xtacy33]

Hey, Just wondering if anyone has a RTR Weight Loss Diet in the making? I've been looking at a lot of fairly recent build threads and see quite a few 1700-1900g comp MOA's unless I'm mistaken but just wondering if anyone was trying to shed some grams. Actually need to make one of these plans for myself too haha

[tapped-out]

Being a light weight is overrated... curious to see how you'll cut the grams off your rig. Wonder if you could start by drilling out the inner diameter of the axle tubes.

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by tapped-out

Being a light weight is overrated... curious to see how you'll cut the grams of your rig. Wonder if you could start by drilling out the inner diameter of the axle tubes.

I disagree.

I think weight is every bit as important as we ever made it. I think people are getting confused though because of some that are taking their rigs and making them heavier. The catch is that they are making them heavier but they are moving the weight and putting it in better places. Weight is not only great but really needed IMHO, just need that weight in the correct spots.

I know you already know this Matt but for others, its like saying you can run two 4lb cars, one of them has a 1lb chassis while the other has a 2oz chassis. We all know which car will do better. Even though the Bully cars have the weight in a pretty good spot, there are better choices, if you can in fact make that choice and its not pushed on you.

IMO, a car that has 10oz of extra weight in the axle assembly will never perform as good as a car that has that same 10oz, same overall weight but has that weight on the knuckles and below the axle center line. Not even a chance.

I still shoot for as light as possible every single spot except for below the axle center line on the knuckles. I put as much possible there. I also dont choose weight over strength in some spots but thats a whole nother conversation.

[Robbob]

Heres where I would start ....

1: Changing the shocks. Those stock ones work well for scalers ...... many better options out there though. SCX shocks would be perfect, light and may tips on building them. RCBros also has complete built Egressor (SCX) shocks available though I don't know what oil is in them but that's easy to change.

2: Drive it - Practice - Tune it

3: Electronics - Holmes or Castle esc's - Proper BEC

4: Drive it - Practice - Tune it


Go in small increments of weight loss ..... its not something you need to dump everything into just to be under a certain number. Back in my Chump RT days I found anything under 4* and the truck didn't like it. Just over and it was butter. But I went slow to get that low and it let me find the balance better.

Im an under 4* driver but I get beat by 4+ and even 5+ so I wouldn't say its a needed thing. Weight cant replace practice but once you get familiar its a good time to shed slowly to find your happy spot.

Like Erik said above me .........

The catch is that they are making them heavier but they are moving the weight and putting it in better places. Weight is not only great but really needed IMHO, just need that weight in the correct spots.

This is a key thing to remember when going on a diet, are you taking it off in the right spots.

[Xtacy33]

Great advice and tips, especially the practice part which really is the most important tip when it comes down to it and having fun while doing it. Grabbing these tips and trying to make something with them will only better the hobby for me because it fulfills shop time/driving time.
Just to get it straight - weight below the axle line (+), weight above axle line (-) and sounds simple enough to attempt to stick with.
I did order some new shocks but ended up going with the traxxas 2661 with DLUX parts/springs(losi) instead of the SCX10 this go around.
I definitely have too much weight with the cheap esc's but it is just for trial to play with dual esc setup which has been great but will end up with castle or HH mini's in the future. Seems like it is a toss up between the 2 and doesn't seem to matter which I go with so might do castle for about $60 cheaper.
Anyway I'll be posting on my build as time goes on which has been a first for me and Robbob will continue to teach me how to drive whenever I can get to events haha along with the rest of the ECRCC crew...

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by Xtacy33

Great advice and tips, especially the practice part which really is the most important tip when it comes down to it and having fun while doing it. Grabbing these tips and trying to make something with them will only better the hobby for me because it fulfills shop time/driving time.
Just to get it straight - weight below the axle line (+), weight above axle line (-) and sounds simple enough to attempt to stick with.
I did order some new shocks but ended up going with the traxxas 2661 with DLUX parts/springs(losi) instead of the SCX10 this go around.
I definitely have too much weight with the cheap esc's but it is just for trial to play with dual esc setup which has been great but will end up with castle or HH mini's in the future. Seems like it is a toss up between the 2 and doesn't seem to matter which I go with so might do castle for about $60 cheaper.
Anyway I'll be posting on my build as time goes on which has been a first for me and Robbob will continue to teach me how to drive whenever I can get to events haha along with the rest of the ECRCC crew...

Remember what my driving did to my truck two weeks ago? LOL I don't know if you want me teaching

But we're always there to help out when you get out with us.

And the 2262's will work good for ya. Im more of an scx guy so I always push them but lots of success with Traxxas on here too.

[tapped-out]

How much does your bully2 weigh in @ now?

Obviously Dlux and robbob bring great points... minus the shocks and stock electronics I don't think the bully2 is extremely heavy (for my standards).

Saving 60$ on esc's .. IMO HH br minis are worth the price.... you've already lost 40$ on the ESC'S you are using now... you could always run 20$ esc's in a scale rig.

[Xtacy33]

Originally Posted by tapped-out

How much does your bully2 weigh in @ now?

Obviously Dlux and robbob bring great points... minus the shocks and stock electronics I don't think the bully2 is extremely heavy (for my standards).

Saving 60$ on esc's .. IMO HH br minis are worth the price.... you've already lost 40$ on the ESC'S you are using now... you could always run 20$ esc's in a scale rig.

You are exactly right about the esc's and that's why I figured it's not $40 lost because they are good enough for some scale rigs and surprised how well they are working now, my only factor is the weight for them or else they would be fine for the moment. These esc's added about 5-10g weight over the 1 stock esc.
The shocks are going to be changed out for the traxxas shocks but currently with a 3S 800mah it was about 2060g and I will be trying to pick up some 3S 500mah from valuehobby when they are back in stock.

[Erik D_lux]

Yep, others are adding great points in here.

You really need to know where YOU are headed with it.

My analogy would be me and riding my road bicycle. I know people who take off their valve caps on their wheels to save a fraction of a gram. I dont do this. I am too big of a guy to worry about cutting weight on my bike and it will never matter really. This does not mean that I dont want a good bike though. I want it to shift correctly and ride really well. Dont think for a second that if I were not a millionaire that I woudlnt have a $10k bike... So, for riding bikes, I have to figure out what I am doing. I dont spend any money on saving weight but I do spend money on correct geometry, comfort and accurate shifting. If I were to race, you bet your bottom dollar that I would take my valve caps off. I will take every advantage possible in a competition.

So, what I am getting at is that you could be just fine with a stock car but if you want more performance, lose weight in as many places as you can besides under the knuckle at the knuckle.

Like said above, if you really want your car to work better, its all up to the driver. I still think a stock XR/BERG/B2 could win the National title.

I do think that when it comes to fun crawling thats where the performance of a car really shines and makes more of a difference than comp crawling.

You would also want to figure out where its better to have weight and not. I dont think its as simple as "above the centerline and below" For example, I would probably trade a heavier wheel/tire that has it below and above rather than an axle that has weight right in the middle but below the center line. I would say the same for the motor too but I take that weight penalty because I like a strong motor.

To each their own and may the best man or car win.

[tapped-out]

Does anyone remember who won world's last yr I wonder how much that car weighed? Lol... BTW my car is a hog weighing in at 2134g RTR
Included in above weight.
330g is knuckle weight.
Battery 56g.

[Erik D_lux]

Twas Jrock.

I dont know how much his car weighs. Not too much and not too little would be my guess. I really think he would be the guy who would win with any car that you gave him though. All back to my theory that I dont think it matters in comp crawling, just fun crawling. We just cant make the obstacles hard enough in comp crawling. Not with a 6 min course anyway. I consider a hard line one that could take 5min itself.

[travis c.]

Knowing your rig and predicting how it will react is the most important of all, IMO, and of course a LCG helps.

[SDheavymetal]

My Bully II was around 5 lbs 8oz. I like when I took 4-5 oz off the rear axle. I replaced the rear axle. It was easier for the truck to pull up and over stuff.

I got a new lighter chassis. I lost weight by replacing the wheels. My Bully is a little over 4 Lbs. If I replaced the motors with Holmes Hobbies 400's It would be way under 4 Lbs.

[cboggs]

Here's the "loaner"...

[tapped-out]

Cboggs is the bully2 weight including battery?

[cboggs]

Originally Posted by tapped-out

Cboggs is the bully2 including battery.

450 3 cell

[Xtacy33]

Thanks for all the great tips and advice guys, it's really appreciated! Seems the go to tips are learn the rig, learn to drive the rig, then worry about a LCG instead of the final weight. I'm just looking forward to finish a course before the year end haha and hopefully all these tips will help!

[chevotafun]

There are many ways to lose some weight on the Bully2's.
Alum screws
Drill the diffs out
Creeper Bob rear axels
CF rims
1/8th upper links
de-case your electronics'

Give a read through my build thread it gives u everything I did to get the weight down.
I think my weight is 3lbs 14oz

[tapped-out]

Losing weight on a comp crawler is like good drugs..50-100$ a gram.

[chevotafun]

Originally Posted by tapped-out

Losing weight on a comp crawler is like good drugs..50-100$ a gram.

LMFAO