TF2 tips and tricks thread

[1BadJeepBruiser]

This thread is for detailed pics and tech info on modifications to the RCWD Trail Finder 2. Please keep BSing to a minimum

[kurtus]

Here is a couple tips from another thread I thought I would add here to get the ball rolling, wish I could contribute my own findings but I have not started my build yet. Anyways here is whats been discussed so far and thanks guys for the input

Originally Posted by 1BadJeepBruiser

Tips and tricks thread stickied at the top. I have bench seat in mine and a regular size servo but if you want a dropped floor you'll need to do a micro servo set up or relocate the shift servo with custom linkage .

Originally Posted by blumaro

move the front shock hoop back one hole and put the shocks behind the axle that takes care of any steering issues

[Katan]

The R3 slipper clutch spur adapter is compatible with Traxxas spurs.



There is also a second set of mounting holes that are compatible with Axial/Robinson spur gears so you can switch to 48p if you wish.



The R3 motor mount is clockable:

[Katan]

Front shock hoop can be mounted behind the front axle like this:

[Katan]

Fuel cell/receiver box can be mounted on the rear cross member like this:

[Katan]

Thanks

Heres another...

If you want to use the full cab back panel you can move the upper deck forward to completely hide everything inside the cab. You will need 4 2mm spacers to clear the top of the tcase. The shift linkage will also need some modification:

[Katan]

To make the Hammer tcase look even more scale you can replace the M2 cap screws with the RC4WD scale M2 bolts:

[pardonmyn00b]

Front shackles and leaf hangers can be flipped to be more like a Toyota pickup. Easy, free and no extra holes to drill.

This picture was taken right after I did the experimental swap. I have since cut the protruding bit of the hanger off the front and used a locknut. One screw is all you need to mount it. It will not rotate due to the configuration of the hanger and the hole.

[pardonmyn00b]

The servo can be flipped so the drag link comes from the other side. Another easy and free mod. Like the previous tip, it's not about performance, it's just for appearance.

You need to take the spur gear off the transmission and rotate the motor mount so it will clear the servo on the other side. It's a tight fit next to the shock hoops, but it will work.

Next flip the front cross member 180* so the servo mount holes are on the other side of the vehicle.

Flip the steering drag link to the other side and your good.

[pardonmyn00b]

Want a full interior, but the shift servo is in the way? Take a mini or micro servo and fashion a mount for it under the bed. Use some M3 threaded rod to make a new, longer shift arm. A full-size servo is overkill for this transmission anyway.

Notice how the arm is bent down so it stays below the frame rails.

[Skater229]

Here is a nice little body lift that is damn near free, provided you have some old leaf spring shackles laying around... I used the flat bar from the shackles and did a slight bend in the center to provide a flat area for the stock body mounts...



Thanks,
John

[symplyrc]

I installed the full cab back and closed off the bed front and mounted the bed separately on six aluminum post, the two on the back and four on the round frame braces where the fuel tank was. The fuel tank was moved to the alternate position on the rear frame brace. The electronics plate I moved to the forward position to allow clearance for the cab back.


The mounting points in the bed

I also made a tool box cover so I can run my battery, bec and wireless winch controller in the bed, cleaning up the electronics plate for a full interior I havent made yet, lazy

[Leprasol]

I just found out, that the electronics box has the same hole pattern as the Axial box...they can be swapped with no modifications...
nice touch

[Katan]

Originally Posted by Leprasol

I just found out, that the electronics box has the same hole pattern as the Axial box...they can be swapped with no modifications...
nice touch

Yes the TF2 faux fuel cell can be used on an SCX10.

[symplyrc]

If you are looking to get more flex from your leaf springs take the shoulder bolts and turn two groves in them tapered to the inside the same width as the spring forming a ball in the center. This allows the spring to pivot from side to side without binding against the shackles and mounts and still retains it's tight fit up and down. This can also be done with a drimel and cut off wheel, it just takes some time and you have to be carful not to cut too deep thus weakening the bolt. This also works great with the chino mod.

[kurtus]

Originally Posted by Katan

Front shock hoop can be mounted behind the front axle like this:

Just putting my rig together last night and did this mod since I'm running xvd's, I used the 2mm spacer on the back side then mounted the shock like the leaflet said to do but I find that the shock binds once you put it at the angle to attach it at the upper shock hoop(like the max angle the ball will allow). Are you running 1x 2mm spacer at the rear side of the axle or more to get rid of the binding. Hope this makes sense?? Thanks Kurt

[TURBOFEST]

Your right, the shock does bind if you use the spacer provided in the kit. I used a traxxas ball end (aprox. 1/4") as a spacer and it worked out perfectly. The shock doesnt bind at all.

[kurtus]

Originally Posted by TURBOFEST

Your right, the shock does bind if you use the spacer provided in the kit. I used a traxxas ball end (aprox. 1/4") as a spacer and it worked out perfectly. The shock doesnt bind at all.

Thats what I thought and logic says to do that but just wanted to make sure it wasn't just me. Thanks

Edit: a 5mm spacer instead of the included 2mm is perfect in this applications fwiw

[vonclod]

just a looks thing, open the grill and mount mesh behind..i left the mounts on the grill but i,m gonna remove them and glue the grill in for a cleaner look




need one of stangkillas nice rads now

[ROCKEDUP RICKY]

I went to mount my servo winch and in looking for a place I had a thought. So I fliped the cross brace/servo mount and the servo mount I have been wondering about popped out.



To mount the bumper the servo screw was in the way, I figured I could get away with 3 mount points.



I had a cheap servo and put one of Warpigs spools on it.



Here it is mounted clears everything. Now I'm going to redo my bumper just a little.