Battery access ?

[northkona]

What is everyone doing for battery access and changes while out on the trail?I will be running the body and trayback as 1 piece.
With the 2 body posts in the tray and the 4 screws on the door sills that seems like a bit of a pain to undo to get to your electrics.(losing screws, plastic getting flogged out) I am a bit too used to easy access such as the front battery bonnet/hood mod on the Wraith or the whole body coming off with 4 body clips on the Honcho.
I am working on a mod using concealed body clips and the sill mounts but I am still keen to know what everyone else is doing , cheers.

[CRAWLERJOE]

I left the body post out and only use the front two screws to hold the body. Been doing that for almost 6 months now and it seems to work fine. Body stays on nice and snug.

[Rook82]

I use the rear body clips. But in the front, I use the forward hole on each side. And instead of a screw, I used some left over 15 mm set screws. It reader them into where the body screw would go but left about 1/4 sticking out. So now to remove the body, just pull sideways and then up. No unscrewing needed. Looks good as the set screws only stick out of the mounts as about the width of the body so you don't see them. It has held up perfect and the body has never popped off.

[turbomini]

i got tired of removing body so i went for the idea of putting it in the bed with a cover i have to make tonoe cover yet but it will just slide on over the edge of bed rails

[Leprasol]

I use standart 4 screws in the cab, because the battery lasts about three hours, so it does not bother me that much. But I really like Rook82's idea with setscrews. Might try it with four of them. I hope the body is stiff enough to hold tight.

[Rook82]

Originally Posted by Leprasol

I use standart 4 screws in the cab, because the battery lasts about three hours, so it does not bother me that much. But I really like Rook82's idea with setscrews. Might try it with four of them. I hope the body is stiff enough to hold tight.

Even with the much more flexible Tamiya body, it still stays on great. The Tf2 body is much thicker and less flexible. I have never had even one side pop off with countless rolls. I do run the stock sliders (side bars) trimmed so they are closer to the body. I think without the side bars, terrain may grab the body from underneath in so e situations and it would possibly pull off then. With them on (bars) it works very well and now the body comes off real quick. And I only use the front two screw hole mounts (1 per side)and the body clips in thebed

[northkona]

Great tips guys ! Keep em coming

[Rook82]

Here is what I was describing in case it didn't make sense.





You can see the set screw does not have to stick out far and is barely noticeable when the body is mounted. At least no more noticeable then the button head screw is. I just set the rear into place on the body posts. Then shift down the front while pulling out at the bottom of the doors till the set screw pops into place. Then away you go. To remove it is just the 2 body clips in the bad and stretching the body off of the mount with set screw.