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Old 05-09-2020, 06:52 PM   #1
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
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Default Clocking motor to sit lower?

I saw a thread some time back about lowering the motor I cant find it again, has anyone done this and is it worth the effort? I can see what needs to be done to clock the motor mount on the trans. to lower the motor somewhat in the chassis, just looking at it I think I could maybe lower the motor so it is almost level with the frame rails, and still have room above the diff.. Thanks for any feed back.
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Old 05-09-2020, 07:25 PM   #2
I wanna be Dave
 
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Default Re: Clocking motor to sit lower?

Look for the YouTube clip ScaleBuildersGuild did on his C2X - I believe he used shorter standoff spacers between the motor mount plate and the transmission plate as a start, it's been a while since I saw it.

Aha! I think I found it... it may differ for the TF2 slightly because the C2X frame rails are different - here ya go:

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Old 05-09-2020, 09:06 PM   #3
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Default Re: Clocking motor to sit lower?

Thanks durok, I will check it out.
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Old 05-09-2020, 09:59 PM   #4
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Default Re: Clocking motor to sit lower?

LSXGMC did a motor clock on his TF2, Blazer Number 2 on SBG's forum.
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Old 05-10-2020, 07:24 AM   #5
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Default Re: Clocking motor to sit lower?

Have it done on both my TF and Marlin. Definitely worth the effort for sidehilling...
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Old 05-10-2020, 08:23 AM   #6
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Default Re: Clocking motor to sit lower?

Thanks for the reply's, the deeper I get into the TF the more I like it.
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Old 05-11-2020, 07:13 PM   #7
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Default Re: Clocking motor to sit lower?

Did the Motor lowering process on the TF2 today not that difficult. A lot of trial and error being it was the first time I attempted this, had to switch the servo steering link to the other knuckle, and might have to move the link that connects the two knuckle to the front mounting spot hope it helps with lower COG.
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Old 09-01-2020, 04:14 PM   #8
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Default Re: Clocking motor to sit lower?

Looks great, clean job Bill! Did you use shorter motor mount spacers? Got a picture from same angle but just under the front frame cross member? Switching to better 540 non-sealed can motor gave just enough room to not cut cross member too. I really should replace the stock motor in mine too.

Should replace the plastic f/r cross members with the machined aluminum bits, much nicer.
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