Just me being neurotic, or viable issue??

[Fishcharger]

Wish I could send a video on here as a pic is worth a thousand words. So I have a TF2 (yota I axles) with about 5hrs of run time. Recently got the Gelande II 2015 D90 (yota II’s). Only about 2hrs of run time on it. The TF2, I’ll say “wheel play” for lack of a better term is a bit more than my 10.2/10.3/VS4-10, etc. Btw, by “wheel play” i’m trying to define how much you can rock the wheels back and forth before feeling the ring and pinion engage. So okay slight design difference whatever. But my G2 D90 has noticeably more wheel play than even my TF2. I really only noticed this a couple days ago after upgrading the drive lines to ultra scale steel punishers and was test running it upside down. Is this, (what I’m calling wheel play) just a standard and known thing with yota axles? Cause what’s going on is (again noticed this when running upside on the table) when giving it a little throttle it has some distinct like skipping going on. And then when giving it more power it starts to shake a vibrate like crazy. I mentioned the wheel play cause what it looks like to me is that the wheels are catching up past the ring and pinion engagement, free spinning for a sec, then jolting when the ring and pinion engage causing the lurching and vibrating. Thoughts?


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[kincer]

Sounds to me like the ring and pinion need shimmed, sometimes they come ok sometimes they need shimmed. I haven't done it in quite sometime so maybe someone will chime in with what shim sizes are needed because I can't remember.

[Fishcharger]

Originally Posted by kincer

Sounds to me like the ring and pinion need shimmed, sometimes they come ok sometimes they need shimmed. I haven't done it in quite sometime so maybe someone will chime in with what shim sizes are needed because I can't remember.

Right that was my first thought. TF2 def needed shimmed when I built it. Before I took the diff apart to add grease to the G2 diffs, I checked and there was zero slop when pushing and pulling the pinion shaft.


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[meatmonkey]

All drivetrain gear mesh' have some freeplay. Its the nature of gearing. That said, Rc3wd isnt known for tight tolerances so many of there parts have more slop than would be ideal. The 2 speed in the TF2 kit has way more rotational slop than the single speed in the Gelande.

Double check that the U-joints in your driveshafts are in phase. They'll make funky vibrations at max angle otherwise.

[Fishcharger]

Originally Posted by meatmonkey

All drivetrain gear mesh' have some freeplay. Its the nature of gearing. That said, Rc3wd isnt known for tight tolerances so many of there parts have more slop than would be ideal. The 2 speed in the TF2 kit has way more rotational slop than the single speed in the Gelande.

Double check that the U-joints in your driveshafts are in phase. They'll make funky vibrations at max angle otherwise.

Yep. Upon further investigation you nailed it on all points. Note to self: Just keep the rubber side down and all is good. Don’t get hung up on oddities when running upside down on the bench. Cause once the weight of the rig lowers the c.o.g., it runs perfectly smooth.


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