well maybe if the lower links were bent the other way instead of high clearence. you dont need a ton of clearence under the front arms for most stuff

well here is mine ok so we all agree the stock tires suck well i took the foam out of mine they are still stiff enough to support the rig yet now soft enough to be useful it helped out alot if you look at my pics in the pic thread the last pic of my rs-10 is with the foam out
post #18 hobby town usa pic
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/redcat-crawlers/224228-redcat-picture-archive-no-talking.html

rs10 motors
 

hey guys my budy put banbots in and works ok but was wondering what is the highest recomended motor out there for these

I would personally run the Holmes Hobbies mini torque masters, but Im going to try other motors first just for comparison purposes. Once there are steel gears and heavy duty CVDs available Ill be swapping to 540 motors.

Let's try to get back on topic here. If you have any questions about parts or things that fit the RS10...make a new topic about it instead of replying to this thread. I'd like to keep this thread as clutter free as possible, otherwise it'll end up like the RS10 revisited thread and nobody will want to sort through it to find things. If anyone has suggestions for easy mods, tips, or anything like that...by all means post them in here and I'll add them to the front page to make it easier to find."thumbsup"

the integy msr10 shocks work extremly well if n e won was wondering on what shocks to use. they bolt up nicely to the axle, and r all around smooth.

Heres a mod you can do if you dont want to spend $30-$40 in new tires. I cut each indivisual tread in half off the tire and took out a pretty good size chunk out of the tread with some tin snips. Then i soaked them in soap for about 24 hours and let them dry a while and i was very impressed. the tires actualy smoosh when i drive up on to something and I can crawl twice as many things because i get traction now. "thumbsup"

yea, i cut my tires and noticed alittle difference. i never thought of soaking them tho. i just bought some rovers. and the stock tires dont even compare. they r soooo much better than the stock tires. id suggest spending 20 bucks for these. they r worth it

+1! I just put on some white dot rovers and 4 oz of lead up front and WOAH waht a difference!

I just received the colbalts 454 and the pinions don't fit them I have the stock 10t and the 8t http://www.redcatracing.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2054/.f please help do I need pinions for a 540 48t ?

Hmmm...that's weird. I have the 13t cobalts and the 48 pitch pinions work fine. Will the pinions not slide onto the shaft or what? Might be wise to send Holmes Hobbies a pm or e-mail and find out what size pinion works.

For those of you who have had questions about mounting shocks to the axle housing using the stock chassis...Cam_L came through for you and was kind enough to write up a how-to. I posted the how-to in the first post of this thread with his included pics. Thanks Cam.

Yes The pinion won't silde on the shaft . The shaft size is 1/8" on the 454 so I drilled the stock pinions the 10t out with a 1/8" drill bit and a drill press to keep the hole straight and they fit perfect now thank for the reply the motors are great tons of wheel speed

Thanks for the heads up on the pinions for the 454's. I'll post that on the front page in case anyone else needs to know.

I found that by turning the battery tray around, you get a little more bias towards the front in regards to weight....Have to turn around the top plate as well for the batt retainer spring..

I just hooked up a continuity tester...
The Stock RS10 front BLUE WIRES to the rear BLUE WIRES have continuity.
The Stock RS10 front YELLOW WIRES to the rear YELLOW WIRES have continuity.

The RS10 appears to be wired parallel right out of the stock ESC already.

I was thinking the Factory may have done that. Its easier to build that way. Thanks for doing the test.

rs10 wing
 

is it possible to get some pictures of the wing removal? thanks great post by the way

Like a step by step removal...or what it looks like without the wing?

i would love to have a step by step on the wing removal and the bent link installation i am running into a problem. when i unscrew the old links the screws dont like to come out of the shaft or the rod ends. just wondering if any one had any tips or if i should just go get some screws and cut the heads off. if thats the case what size are the screws i was told they are 3mm.

Thanks Brent