wat is a good servo?

Check the other thread you posted this question in for your answer. Also use the search function of the forum and you'll find plenty of threads about servos.

Im looking at the fireball 370's and the titan 380's,14t any thoughts or opinions would be apreciated. Thanks in advance

Probably won't get many views on your question in the tips and tricks thread. I replied to your other post.

Should I use lithium grease for the plastic axle gears or some other grease, thanks

This is a question not suited for the tips and tricks thread...you'll get more views making a new topic about this, but I'll answer anyway. I've used white lithium grease in my RS10 gearboxes before, but I currently use the same grease I use on my mountain bike, which is Park Tools Polylube 1000. Ultimately you'll want something that's plastic safe and won't break down the gears/gearboxes. In the future, if you have questions about something not in the tips and tricks thread...make a new topic about it.

@Dabandit1

I posted my thoughts on the Titan 380's in the Guide to Motors thread.

ok, my bad

electrifly speed 400 motors
 

since everywhere seems to be out of stock on the gws400 motors i ordered a pair of Electrifly speed 400 motors and they are great!
http://www.electrifly.com/motors/speed400.html
lots more wheel speed and still just as crawlable at low speed as the stock motors and the new motors help a ton with the clod stall.

i got them from canyon hobbies but it doesnt look like they are listed on the website i paid $9.99 each

Stock Shock Pre-load
 

OKay, introducing myself with a mod, hello everybody!.

Ive noticed that the shocks that come on the RS10 are really loppy, to the point that it allows the suspension to bind up on some of the smallest terrain.

Ive been into RC for a short time, but already I know the value of some pre-load on the shocks. This is what I did to help with the loppy suspension.

Taking some 1/2 inch aluminum tubing. I cut 4, 3/4 inch sections out (more or less depending on the amount of tension you want, but I found that the springs might bind up with more). Take the shock off (or at least the lower mount) and remove the shock spring retainer ring, then remove the spring and stop ring. Slip a section of aluminum on the shock body, reassemble the way you took it off.

And presto instant pre-load, killing that loppy stock suspension.
Hope it helps.

That's a lot of good information, I still don't understand why you would want the shocks mounted ont he links like they do from the factory.

ok so i found that i really hated the stock shocks they were too soft and the pistons werent smooth at all so i stripped my losi stadium truck for its shocks and slapped em on heres a step by step on how to put losi xxxt shocks on.

first get the old shocks off you will use some of the parts to make this work. now that they are off you are going to pop the top pivot ball out of the shock.(this is the part you need)
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...0428000144.jpg
this is the side you want to pop out as there is only one side that is pressed in. i just used some needle nose pliers to poop it out shown below.
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...0428000146.jpg
heres what you should get
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...428000146a.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...0428000147.jpg
now for the losi shocks. in order for them to fit without binding you have to file the corners off the top of the shock so the eye is rounded. shown below
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...428000137a.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...0428000135.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...0428000137.jpg
now you are going to mount the shock with the pivot ball that you removed from the old shock in the end you filed upside down so the filed end is on the link arm.
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...0428000148.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...0428000154.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...8000154a-1.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...428000154a.jpg
and on the top you will need to get some slightly smaller screws the same length as the old hard wear for the top mount and reuse the original spacer for the top mount as well. and whala aluminium threaded shocks.
on some of the newer losi shocks you dont have to file them down and some you dont need to reuse the pivot ball. you can find them all over ebay just search losi xxxt shocks.
i recomend using the front shocks for the xxxt just because they come with slightly softer springs. that rears are pretty stiff.
and dont forget losi springs are progressive so they get stiffer as they compress.

i just took it out to test it set up like this and WOW huge difference. way better flexability and no more binding shocks and over articulating and still geting the same ammount of articulation. also improved traction alot too.

I think you should maybe try a small O-ring on both sides of the ball joints, to keep the shocks ends centered over the ball. This works for my HR shocks very well.

it actually works well with none because everything kinda wobbles around anyway and it keeps it from binding. they stay centered on the ball like it is.

I just recently did this to my rig and it helped alot. I kept looking at my electronics tray and kept telling my self it's way to high, i figured i would have to 4 link first to get the electronics low due to the upper links connected to the tray. i noticed on mine that the upper links weren't parrallel and they needed to be lowered so i figured that doing this would help my suspension as well as my CG. so here are the steps(sorry for the bad pics):
-first of all you need a stick batterey(if your running a lipo or you battery is just not mounted on the skid then you can just put all the electros on the skid and just remove the electronic tray)

-of course unscrew the whole tray

-unscrew the ball from from the tray

-either flip the whole Y-link or pop the ball out and flip it

-mount it ontop of the tray(notice the mount is lifted)

-drill holes in the part of the chassis pointed out in the picture
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...0504001805.jpg

-mount it and your done.

-it should look something like this

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...0504001808.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...504001808a.jpg

I will be 4 linking soon but until then this works perfectly fine"thumbsup".

Delrin link alternative:

I was at the Ace hardware and saw some polyethylene tubing. Got the 3/8" and found that it will sleeve the stock lower links PERFECTLY. I had to heat them up, like boil them a little ( I used a bottle warmer) to make them expand. Shove them on and when it cools off they are on there good. Polyethylene is not as nice as Delrin but it's still really slick and its cheap and easy to find. I made my skid out poly too and its nice.

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...0681725c49.jpg

Or get some nylon or teflon washers from the hardware store. That works great for me, keeps those links from flopping into the motor

Droop setup on rs10
 

I didn't see a walk through on this when I wanted to do it so here is how I did it, maybe it can help someone who is hesitant to tackle it. My first write up so bear with me.

First you'll need;

Needle nose pliers
Regular pliers
Shock oil
small cup to drain old oil into
rag or two, oil can get messy
Springs, small diameter
a little patience, maybe a beer or two

1. Remove shock
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...97c49926d3.jpg

2. Remove Spring and retainers. Bag these up, they're not going back on but you might want them later.
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...60c9e2aaa0.jpg

3. Carefully remove top cap with pliers. Be gentle on that plastic, don't want to crack it. Get the cap off and drain the fluid. you can reuse it but you would be best served picking up some heavy oil, like 80 or 100 w for $4 from LHS. Stroke the piston to get most of it out. http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...acdec3f2ce.jpg

4. Remove lower rod end. Be carefull not to let the shaft slip in your pliers. If the shaft gets chewed up it will leak like hell. Use needle nose pliers with fine grooves. Then push the shaft up and out of the assembly.
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...c818326ff0.jpg http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...fa70cbbebb.jpg

5. Lay out springs. You can rob springs from a pen if you want it really soft, or go to the hardware store and pick out some. The spring on the left will go on the shaft and give droop. If you want semi droop, add another spring on top or reinstall the outer spring. I chose a shorter spring on top so it doesn't ride full droop but doesn't always push either. http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...d103f1453c.jpg

6. Reassemble and oil. With your spring on the shaft, insert it back into the shock body like it came out. Pull it down and hold with needle nose pliers to thread on the rod end so it doesn't pull itself through. If you go semi droop, set the top spring inside last.

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...5b993bb8f4.jpg
Pull the shaft to the fully extended length and pour oil into the top till its half full. SLOWLY stroke the shaft to fill the lower end of the body with oil. Go to fast and the oil will be in your face. Once you get the bottom full of oil and the air bubbles out, fully extend and fill to top with oil.

7. Thread on the top cap 2-3 threads and slowly compress the shock. when fully compressed tighten the cap. Get it tight but don't muscle it, threads are a bit weak.

That's it, put them on and adjust your mounting location to get the ride height you want. I've had mine running for a few days now and I really like it. It seems much more predictable and the side hilling is still okay now that I use the 100w oil. You might need to add weight to get you axles to drop over stuff like you want but that all depends on your specific rig. Have fun experimenting."thumbsup"

WOW great write up bud and for being the first one you did a great job!! I may have to try this on my spare set.