Official RS10 tips and tricks thread.
 

Alright guys, post up any cheap mods, tricks, tips, or aftermarket parts you can come up with. If you post up any mods, make sure to include a step by step how-to, required parts and links to said parts if necessary, and pictures if possible. I'll start off with some of the common things in the rs10 revisited thread and will update with better pictures on my mods as I go along. Feel free to update this with any mods, parts, or tricks you find, but keep the chit/chat to a minimum to avoid a ton of pages that are hard to look through. If anyone is curious about a particular mod that isn't in this thread, feel free to send me a pm or ask someone and we'll do some research.

RICrawler's axle mounted battery plate:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/redcat-crawlers/310942-axle-mounted-battery-plate.html


Dig switch box: (courtesy of the enroute berg forum)
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/enroute-berg/136425-my-dig-switch-box.html
dig requires a 3 channel radio with toggle switch or push button mod.
here's a link to a push button mod on a tq3 radio: (courtesy of major94)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqntnWcb4FA
and a link for modding a tq3 with a toggle and epa pots:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/electronics/9765-my-modded-tq3-update-added-epa-pots.html

Axle mounted shock mod:
parts needed: 4x m3 hex head screws in 20mm length
-remove the screw/nut that holds the lower link to the axle housing.
-insert the 20mm m3 screw through the lower eyelet of the shock and thread the screw into the outside edge of the lower link mount.
-attach the lower link like normal and bolt it all together.
this mod might only work with an aftermarket or custom chassis, awaiting confirmation that it works with the stock chassis. With the shocks mounted like this...smaller tires such as losi rock claws do not rub at all. Taller tires such as rovers barely touch and rubbing doesn't seem to be an issue.
http://i50.tinypic.com/288tqc7.jpg

Rear steering lock-out:
parts needed: long rod ends, long set screws or m3 bolt with the head cut off, longer screw to thread into the axle housing. (duratrax part number DTXC4161 also works as a steering lockout)
-remove the stock servo and servo mount
-assemble lockout by threading a long set screw or m3 bolt into one rod end, then screw the other rod end onto the opposite side. 2 inch eye to eye length needed.
-attach one side of the lockout to the steering knuckle.
-remove one of the screws holding the axle housing together and attach the other end of the lockout to the axle housing.
http://i45.tinypic.com/4ht6kn.jpg

Another rear steer lockout that I came up with:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/redcat-crawlers/243315-homemade-rear-steer-lockout-how.html


Upgrade motor recommendations:
-Hobbyzone 7134 390 size
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=HBZ7134
-cobalt 13turn (if you can find them)
-holmes hobbies 454
http://holmeshobbies.com/product.php...&cat=17&page=1
-banebot 380 7.2v
http://banebots.com/pc/MOTOR-BRUSH/M5-RS380-72
-banebot 390 12v
http://banebots.com/pc/MOTOR-BRUSH/M5-RS390-12
(Note about the HH 454's thanks to swr2: The shaft size is 1/8" on the 454 so I drilled the stock pinions the 10t out with a 1/8" drill bit and a drill press to keep the hole straight and they fit perfect now)
To my knowledge nobody runs the following motors yet, so getting them will be trial and error:

-Atomic ST-18 High Torque
http://shop.tinyrc.com/catalog/Atomi...r-p-18404.html
-Raider micro monster
http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=51977
-GPM 30 turn motor
http://www.rgmotorsports.net/proddet...8SMT%29&cat=24

and if you have any issues removing the stock pinions here are 10t and 8t pinions that work:
-10t
http://www.rc4wdstore.com/2/product_...roducts_id=197
-8t
http://www.redcatracing.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2054/.f

"Wing" removal:
parts needed: small 1x1 square of aluminum, delrin, or similar material about 2mm thick, rod ends.
-remove the upper links from the wing mount.
-remove the 3-link mount from the chassis.
-unbolt the wing from the axle housing (there are 4 screws).
-dremel the delrin or aluminum if necessary, drill 2 holes into the bottom part and 1 into the top part, bolt the new 4 link mount to the axle housing where the "wing" once was using 2 of the screws from the wing.
-attach rod ends to the upper links since they're removed from the 3 link and bolt everything up.

In depth how-to for wing removal: courtesy of redcatguy
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...=1#post2390892

High steer upgrade: (courtesy of BADASSPONY)
parts needed:
Steering link set
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWJJ9&P=7
CKRC Knuckles
http://www.ckrccrawlers.com/shop/ind...oducts_id=2379

Aluminum shock mount upgrade:
http://www.rc4wdstore.com/2/product_...roducts_id=119

How-to mount shocks to the axles using the stock chassis: (courtesy of Cam_L)
I bought the Losi 4" shock kit, included are a bunch of spacers for different applications. I only used the step-down spacers originally intended for the upper shock mounts. I found that they didn't provide enough movement for the shock, so dug out 4 traxxas revo rod ends, and found they fit through the upper shock mount. I found some spacers, that fit over the rod end that would work to make up for the protrusion. dug out some old screws and washers and mounted them. (see pics)
The lower end, I drilled out the step-down spacers to accomodate the shock rods and installed them, small dia end pointed towards the shock. I then installed the redcat rod ends, the ones from the batwing (Cause you've already done a 4-link ) with about 3 threads showing on the shock rod. install springs and lower spring cap. remove the lower link and install the shock mount where your lower link was. if you have bent lower links, it seems to work better if you reverse them (see pics) for clearance of the motors. install the lower links to the inside of the axle mount, with a long enough screw to make it half way into the shock mount eye. install a screw on the other side as well. (DO NOT LOCTITE THESE, you'll never get them out if you have to!) Lastly, drill big enough holes to fit your upper mounts, using stock redcat screws and spacers, right on the tip of the chassis (see pics). You may have to move the x-members. have fun dialing them in! (NOTE: you can also get nylon spacers at lowes if you don't have metal spacers laying around. They come in various thicknesses)

http://i50.tinypic.com/zumgp4.jpg
http://i49.tinypic.com/23join9.jpg
http://i48.tinypic.com/ycax0.jpg
http://i46.tinypic.com/6fqyro.jpg

Delrin steering/suspension links:


Tools:
-drill with appropriate bit size (slightly smaller than the set screw you plan on using)
-tubing cutter (I use the following cutter)
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1
-JeepinDoug's drill bushing (not necessary, but incredibly useful)
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...+drill+bushing

Materials:
-Delrin rod in your choice of diameter (5/16'' works well)
-m3 long set screws
http://www.mcmaster.com/#set-screws/=7v3fwu
-your choice of rod ends

http://i32.tinypic.com/f1vz0j.jpg

Tutorial:
-Measure the link size taking into account whether you're planning a bent link or not, then mark it using a silver sharpie. Be sure to use the measure twice, cut once mentality to avoid wasting material.

-Clamp on the tubing cutter and tighten it up a little. Then chuck the end of the delrin rod into your drill. Hold the tubing cutter in one hand and start the drill with the other hand...using the drill to spin the delrin rod will drastically speed up the cutting process. After you notice the tubing cutter feeling loose, tighten it up and continue this process until the cut is finished. Repeat the process to get your additional links cut.

http://i25.tinypic.com/242hhe9.jpg

-Pop JeepinDoug's drill bushing onto the end of the link and use the drill to drill your hole. Repeat this process until there is a hole in each end of each link you're making.

http://i28.tinypic.com/29ar30n.jpg

-Thread a long set screw into each end of each link, then screw on the rod end of your choice (Traxxas Revo ends work really well).

Nice write up Scott!!

Nice write up"thumbsup" 1 question but what does the Parrnell wirering mod do?

it helps with clod stall.

ok one more question. Whats clod stall:mrgreen:

Great tips. I will do the woring mod this weekend.

lol it is when one of the motors stalls while the other keeps turning. the clod buster used to be the only MOA (motor on axle) so it got named after it.

well i guess this is the best palce to ask this ? whats the gear ratio on these axle's with the stock pinion's? are they usein 32 pitch gears or 48 pitch? and finally roughly what degree steering angle?

Not sure about the gear ratio or what degree steering angle is used, but the gears are 48 pitch. I can get the tooth number for the gears if you'd like?

great post "thumbsup"

Hopefully this thread will get stickied to keep it from constantly moving down the list.

If it does keep getting moved down we can just keep it at the top

great thread thx for the help us newbs need all we can get "thumbsup"

You can also run a PunkRC dig rather the building a switch setup and box. Heres a link.

http://www.punkrc.com/index.php?main...products_id=28

Its stickied now. Some great info here.

you can mount this to rs10 :?:?

http://www.rc4wdstore.com/2/product_...roducts_id=611

:shock::shock:

You could but I think it would make the motor too long and it would hit the links.

well maybe someone should buy one and test it out ;) i liked the sound of lower gears on my rs10 :)

Size?
 

I think it would put your motor pretty close to the lower links. It might work tho. The extra torque would be nice. I wonder why the website doesn't give the dimensions?

It's a good thought...but I don't think that would work for most motors...especially the ones I have. My motors only have about 6mm of clearance from the shocks. Judging from the last pic of the gear reduction unit mounted to a motor...it looks to be about half the size of a 380 motor. Would be cool if one would fit, though.

well maybe if the lower links were bent the other way instead of high clearence. you dont need a ton of clearence under the front arms for most stuff

well here is mine ok so we all agree the stock tires suck well i took the foam out of mine they are still stiff enough to support the rig yet now soft enough to be useful it helped out alot if you look at my pics in the pic thread the last pic of my rs-10 is with the foam out
post #18 hobby town usa pic
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/redcat-crawlers/224228-redcat-picture-archive-no-talking.html

rs10 motors
 

hey guys my budy put banbots in and works ok but was wondering what is the highest recomended motor out there for these

I would personally run the Holmes Hobbies mini torque masters, but Im going to try other motors first just for comparison purposes. Once there are steel gears and heavy duty CVDs available Ill be swapping to 540 motors.

Let's try to get back on topic here. If you have any questions about parts or things that fit the RS10...make a new topic about it instead of replying to this thread. I'd like to keep this thread as clutter free as possible, otherwise it'll end up like the RS10 revisited thread and nobody will want to sort through it to find things. If anyone has suggestions for easy mods, tips, or anything like that...by all means post them in here and I'll add them to the front page to make it easier to find."thumbsup"

the integy msr10 shocks work extremly well if n e won was wondering on what shocks to use. they bolt up nicely to the axle, and r all around smooth.

Heres a mod you can do if you dont want to spend $30-$40 in new tires. I cut each indivisual tread in half off the tire and took out a pretty good size chunk out of the tread with some tin snips. Then i soaked them in soap for about 24 hours and let them dry a while and i was very impressed. the tires actualy smoosh when i drive up on to something and I can crawl twice as many things because i get traction now. "thumbsup"

yea, i cut my tires and noticed alittle difference. i never thought of soaking them tho. i just bought some rovers. and the stock tires dont even compare. they r soooo much better than the stock tires. id suggest spending 20 bucks for these. they r worth it

+1! I just put on some white dot rovers and 4 oz of lead up front and WOAH waht a difference!

I just received the colbalts 454 and the pinions don't fit them I have the stock 10t and the 8t http://www.redcatracing.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2054/.f please help do I need pinions for a 540 48t ?

Hmmm...that's weird. I have the 13t cobalts and the 48 pitch pinions work fine. Will the pinions not slide onto the shaft or what? Might be wise to send Holmes Hobbies a pm or e-mail and find out what size pinion works.

For those of you who have had questions about mounting shocks to the axle housing using the stock chassis...Cam_L came through for you and was kind enough to write up a how-to. I posted the how-to in the first post of this thread with his included pics. Thanks Cam.

Yes The pinion won't silde on the shaft . The shaft size is 1/8" on the 454 so I drilled the stock pinions the 10t out with a 1/8" drill bit and a drill press to keep the hole straight and they fit perfect now thank for the reply the motors are great tons of wheel speed

Thanks for the heads up on the pinions for the 454's. I'll post that on the front page in case anyone else needs to know.

I found that by turning the battery tray around, you get a little more bias towards the front in regards to weight....Have to turn around the top plate as well for the batt retainer spring..

I just hooked up a continuity tester...
The Stock RS10 front BLUE WIRES to the rear BLUE WIRES have continuity.
The Stock RS10 front YELLOW WIRES to the rear YELLOW WIRES have continuity.

The RS10 appears to be wired parallel right out of the stock ESC already.

I was thinking the Factory may have done that. Its easier to build that way. Thanks for doing the test.

rs10 wing
 

is it possible to get some pictures of the wing removal? thanks great post by the way

Like a step by step removal...or what it looks like without the wing?

i would love to have a step by step on the wing removal and the bent link installation i am running into a problem. when i unscrew the old links the screws dont like to come out of the shaft or the rod ends. just wondering if any one had any tips or if i should just go get some screws and cut the heads off. if thats the case what size are the screws i was told they are 3mm.

Thanks Brent