BRAINSTORM; Moving Those Motors

[The Jackalope]

The one problem every RS10 has is where the motor sits. the DIFF is in the center of the axle, and the motor sits all on one side, causing tuning issues with the shocks, links, and even tires.

We have all found our own ways to get around this with link/shock placement, But I want to hear some ideas to fix the ROOT of the problem. Solutions for both 390 and 540 users. Any idea or suggestion is welcome. Maybe something you thought about but don't have the resources to build.

Post it here

[The Jackalope]

Subtopic; How Long Are Your Motors?


The stock motors are 50mm from the motor mount to the bearing on the endbell.







For 540 users, The popular RS10 Big Boy 540 Preassembled Kit w/ New Gear Case From www.zno-rc.com, adds an additional 4mm to the overall length due to the strengthening plate

[Wi_Crawler]

Im still a big noob, but when i stretched my crawler.. i stumbled across something by mistake that seemed to fix this issue..it was rotating the whole axle forward 45 degrees , this places the motor in the true 'on top' position rather than behind the axle, and it does not interfere with shocks or bottom links.. While stretching my rs10 i made the upper link mount too long and when i hooked up the links it rotated the whole axle forward so the motor was up on top and made a lot more space..but my servo was facing almost down lol. something along these lines might work though. does any of what i just said make sense?

Originally Posted by The Jackalope

The one problem every RS10 has is where the motor sits. the DIFF is in the center of the axle, and the motor sits all on one side, causing tuning issues with the shocks, links, and even tires.

We have all found our own ways to get around this with link/shock placement, But I want to hear some ideas to fix the ROOT of the problem. Solutions for both 390 and 540 users. Any idea or suggestion is welcome. Maybe something you thought about but don't have the resources to build.

Post it here

[screwed]

probably not much help and could get pricey is bully axles. their offset. Bully Light Weight Comp 2.2 Straight Axle (Black)
if your meaning on keeping the redcat axles, i dunno.

[jsowens]

If you went the Bully route, it wouldn't be a RS10 anymore. If the bottom half of the axle tube could be removed, like the top half is, it would be fairly easy to clock the axles without having your servo pointed to the sky or at the ground, which screws with your steering. The downfall is the bottom piece of the axle is all one piece.

If you really wanted to experiment you could hack up a set of axles and relocate the gearbox more offset. That would require a lot of hacking, gluing, and then you would have to extend one dog bone and shorten one. Depends on how much work you want to do.

[The Jackalope]

I'm talking RS10 axles only.

I was thinking if we could manufacture something to extend the length of the left side of the axle about 15mm(using front axle as an example) it would put the motor more centered, while widening the truck stance. It currently sits 10.5 inches tire to tire, and 12.5 inches is the comp limit.

This would require some serious plastic work and a longer dogbone but is definitly not impossible.

[The Jackalope]

Another route is moving the motor mount over a few more millimeters.

CrAsHmAsTeR managed to save 4mm by installing his 540's the oldschoolway, without the aluminium plate. With good motor selection you could probably save another 5 or so mm.

Is there a way we could move the stock motor-mount over another 5-10mm? a slight redesign of the gear housing?

[Docwolf]

my solution was to ditch the moa alt together with a 90 degree box and run the rs10 axles as shafties. i suggested the idea to zno and was told there is not enough of a market for such a part.

now going back to the idea purposed here, if you went with a new lower axle housing casting, you could do alot of up grading. clock the gear box, new link and shock mounts and improved knuckle mounts, plus the increase in turning radius. i think you would only need to stretch one dog bone though. now if we could also get this upgrade with CVs, we would have something.

but lets look at cost, for something like this, i would rather spend my pennies on a set of shafties.

[screwed]

just throwing this out there....clockable transfercase/gear reduction unit to bolt on where the stock motor goes. motor can be clocked where needed above or around the original gear case. ahhh nevermind im babbling. would look like ass too.

[The Jackalope]

RC4wd 540 motors are 55mm from the mount to the bearing on the rear endbell. How long are your motors?

[The Jackalope]

Originally Posted by Docwolf

my solution was to ditch the moa alt together with a 90 degree box and run the rs10 axles as shafties. i suggested the idea to zno and was told there is not enough of a market for such a part.
.

I like the idea of turning the motors 90 degrees but maybe keeping them on the axles. Hmmm, I wonder what that would look like.

[screwed]

Originally Posted by The Jackalope

RC4wd 540 motors are 55mm from the mount to the bearing on the rear endbell. How long are your motors?

if your talkin to me, mine are still attached at the moment. im sure someone here has a stocker off to measure.

[CrAsHmAsTeR]

Here are some pics with measurements. This is the best I can do without removing them.

1st 390 stock RS 10 motor.


2nd RC4wd 55t motor. It's hard to see the motor nub in the center, but it does stick out past the can.


3rd Integy 55t lathe motor. The nub is out at 2 inches.


I hope this helps. Some 540's do have a long can that do get in the way.
If you find a motor you like do research to find the measurement specs.

[The Jackalope]

Originally Posted by Wi_Crawler

Im still a big noob, but when i stretched my crawler.. i stumbled across something by mistake that seemed to fix this issue..it was rotating the whole axle forward 45 degrees , this places the motor in the true 'on top' position rather than behind the axle, and it does not interfere with shocks or bottom links.. While stretching my rs10 i made the upper link mount too long and when i hooked up the links it rotated the whole axle forward so the motor was up on top and made a lot more space..but my servo was facing almost down lol. something along these lines might work though. does any of what i just said make sense?

The problem I had with clocking the axle outwards, instead of inwards, was it RAISED the motor up for a higher center-of-gravity overall. not to mention the steering angle being kinda awkard. BTA steering would get you the clearance I suppose. But might still act funny.

[HoupS]

Looking at the rig from the rear, if there was a way to shorten the rear left of the axle housing and lengthen the right of the rear axle housing about 10 mm, it would center everything better, there is plenty of room. The same could be done on the front right (looking from the rear). I don't know if it possible, but it sure would make things easier.

[Docwolf]

keep in mind that the only difference between front and rear is the direction the motors turn. i stand firm that any major mods will be to costly to be worth while. the 90 degree box turning this into a shafty i feel is best. to do the 90 box and keep moa would require to many separate parts, the box would have to come apart for motor mounting, where with shafty, it could just be one piece. someone posted a pick a while back of this nice extended upper link mount. i notice in the pick that rig was a rs10 and it had these short can motors on it. could not have been more then 1 1/4 inch long.

[The Jackalope]

Originally Posted by Docwolf

keep in mind that the only difference between front and rear is the direction the motors turn. i stand firm that any major mods will be to costly to be worth while. the 90 degree box turning this into a shafty i feel is best. to do the 90 box and keep moa would require to many separate parts, the box would have to come apart for motor mounting, where with shafty, it could just be one piece. someone posted a pick a while back of this nice extended upper link mount. i notice in the pick that rig was a rs10 and it had these short can motors on it. could not have been more then 1 1/4 inch long.

Those were a brushless motor on a tracer system. But yes, a super short motor would be a great option!

[The Jackalope]

I think I have an idea. I just have to hack up a gearcase and find some aluminium to make it. Wish I had a spare ZNO plate to work with too.I want to remove the entire STOCK motor mount (plastic) and put the metal plate a few more millimeters to the right. It will take some careful clearance cuts around the 1st gear pin, and some good reinforcing. I think 5mms is achievable. If necessary, the pinion could be turned around to mesh with the gear. With some new motors I could save 15mm(5/8") from my current setup! What do you think?

I have a gearcase I can hack for the experiment, but it will take me awhile to make the aluminium without a cnc at my disposal.

[FATBOYrs10]

i haven't posted anything in this thread for awhile, been spendin alot of time on scaletrailrunners.com-most of the guys on there are local to me! but here's my 2cents! don't take this wrong because me and my son both have rs10's and love them, but, if you add the cost of a new rs10 + zno big block kit + your time moddin the axles = you could afford a axial XR10! and there axles are made the way yall are tryin to make rs10 axles! just seems like alot of work and money for something that already exist.

[Docwolf]

Originally Posted by The Jackalope

Those were a brushless motor on a tracer system. But yes, a super short motor would be a great option!

so.....what does that mean???