rear lockout

[bearz]

gday all im a newbie to rc crawling but im quietly hooked. ive been doing some reading on here and im gunna do quite a few of the mods but first I will do the rear steer lockout. I did some searching but cant find anything, so im asking what hole to hole centres you used to lock it up
cheers

[Dungas]

A quick and easy way to lock it out is to remove the servo horn, unscrew the steering link a few turns to lengthen it a little (just under 1 cm should do it) and attach the link directly to the servo. you could put a nut or a few small washers on either end of the rod if you want. I did this when my original servo let out all its smoke and it worked a treat.
Personally i think rear steer is a handy function to have, but thats my oppinion and i don't run it in comps.
If you are going to keep rear steer then fit some tougher servos, with the stocker it struggled to hold the rear wheels straight when you were giving it a hard time, since swapping to metal geared 15kg units they don't budge.

Other methods for locking it out are mentioned in the sticky threads at the top of the list.
Have a good read thru them as they are an absolute wealth of knowledge about the rockslide.

Happy crawling, good to see another aussie on the forums.

[bearz]

thanks for the info. I have been reading the stickys theres a lot of info out there that's for sure

[Docwolf]

I did similar to that but removed the servo and plate, then attached the drag link to one of the axle housing screws. I just put in a longer screw.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[redcatkrawler]

I just did mine, look in the tips and tricks thread. I used pop rivet mandrils with traxxas tie rod ends. Make sure they are the larger style rivets. These should be a snug fit, but can be taken off easily for loctite. Use a pop riveter to pop the rivet. Be careful the rivet and mandril can shoot out like a bullet. Then I used vise grips with cutters and cut 3/16" off the mandril. Use the vise grips to clamp to the mandril and push down onto the tie rod ends. Repeat steps for all 4. Make sure to bury the mandril all the way into the tie rods. Install onto rig, make sure they fit so your rear tires are straight. Finally remove. Clamp your visegrip tight to the tie rod end, this will make sure you keep your exact placement. Remove one tie rod end at a time and use red locktight. Replace tie rod end and slide back tight to your visegrip for proper depth in tie rod. Repeat steps and reinstall asap and let loctite dry. Great little trick. Also I used stainless rivets.

[CodesEmpire]

We did a build video on how to build a homemade lockout with cooper tubing.

Heres the link to it: Redcat RS10 Upgrades Part 2 - Homemade Lockout for the rear

It's made from 1/2 inch cooper tube. I have a lot of tips and measurements in the discription box incase you miss them on the video to.

Hope this helps out.

[jsowens]

Originally Posted by CodesEmpire

We did a build video on how to build a homemade lockout with cooper tubing.

It's made from 1/2 inch cooper tube. I have a lot of tips and measurements in the discription box incase you miss them on the video to.

Hope this helps out.

I did this same thing a few years ago with my Hellstrom RS10 build. Initially I used copper tube, but settled on using 1/2 nylon spacers from Lowes. Quite a bit cheaper, easy to cut to fit, and you don't end up with extra copper tube you potentially won't use.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/redca...m-rebuild.html

Scroll down the page to post #7 and you'll see mine. Best way to lock it out, IMO. When I did mine, I cut the arms off the steering knuckles and dremeled off the servo plate mount on the rear axle. I had no intentions of keeping rear steer and wanted a clean look.