Help with upgrades

[ulsa]

I almost bought a Axial Bomber but decided it was too much money and brought my old Rockslide RS10 out from the closet to see what can be done with it.
I need some help to get it running and also make it a little bit faster and better at crawling.
I have these servos:
http://www.amazon.com/Tower-Pro-MG99.../dp/B0098M4R4Q
Tires:
Hot Bodies HB Rover Rock Crawler Tires (White Compound)

I have a:
Hobbywing Quicrun 60A 2S-3S Waterproof Brushed ESC for 1/10
Is it better than the stock one and main question, can I use it at all? It only have power out for one motor. Maybe I can split it to both?

If I cannot use the ESC above can you please advice me on one to buy? The stock one is busted.
Will I need a external BEC for the servos?

Any other upgrades? Motors?

Thank you!

[cabron]

the towerpro 946 is a little bit stronger but what you got is not bad for the money
the 946 is in the 10.50 dollar range from china and has 12 kgs torque.
a bec will always help because it lets you use a higher voltage for the servos and get the most
torque out of them. set the bec for 7.0 volts or so (look at the max voltage in the specs for the servo)
some becs cannot be set so shop accordingly. the castle becs can be set.

if you use a bec, there are a few ways to hook them up. the simplest way is to remove the red wire from the esc
and plug the output of the bec into the receiver. ther other way is to connect the red and black wires from the servos to the bec
and the orange and black wires to the esc. when I say remove the red wire I mean pull the plug from the connector,
there is a little tab on the plastic holding the connector in. once slid out tape up the end or use small heat shrink
since that wire is hot. if you use 2 escs, do the same to both of them so you don't burn anything up.

that esc should work. you could always use 2 escs, one for each motor and run them through a y.
or better yet with a better transmitter you can use 2 channels for the escs and mix them or even just run one motor
to use as a dig setup. I like to use a stick radio to make it very usable for 2 escs and 4ws.

other mods I would suggest would be 12mm (or so) wheel extenders to widen the wheelbase. this will make the crawler
more stable specially sidehilling. of course lowering the weight as much as possible and as far forward as possible.
lower bent links will lower the chassis but still give you the clearance you need at the links.
mounting the shocks to the axle housing as opposed on the links. if you look through Freitas's thread (rs10 on r1 chassis)
you can see how he did his shock mounts, it is a pretty good way.

a 3s lipo will give you more wheel speed, your esc is already lipo ready for 3s so no problem there.

any questions do not hesitate to ask. be sure and include plenty of pictures as all of us rs10 crazies enjoy
seeing other crazies' rides.

[ulsa]

Originally Posted by cabron

the towerpro 946 is...

Thank you so much for your answer. I will hook everything up and see how it works with the new ESC and take it from there. I have a 2s LiPo on the way. Should be better than the stock NiMh I guess.

[ulsa]

Do I have to do any programming of the ESC or is it just plug and drive?

[StomperCrawler]

Originally Posted by ulsa

Do I have to do any programming of the ESC or is it just plug and drive?

Http://www.sekidorc.com/pdf/QuicWP_U..._en_131021.pdf

[cabron]

don't really want the brake option. this causes a delay when going between forward and reverse.
choose the fwd/rev option. set the lipo option if using lipos, if not using lipos it does not make much difference
except that the esc will warn you of low voltage when you can still run with nimh. not necessarily a bad thing.

with the 70 turn motors that esc should work ok, just run the motors in parallel.
it is only a 2A bec built into the esc and only 5 volts.
should be ok for the 2 servos just watch to see if you have trouble turning the wheels while driving.
if you do see any delays in the steering specially in 4ws mode get a bec. set it for 7 volts

if you are planning on lights, best use a bec with more current.

the castle bec is a bit pricey but it is good, here is another option, this guy makes many electronic
items for crawlers. this link is for the becs he makes but you can find a link to his store to see what else he makes.
sadly it is more expensive than the castle bec but it is easier to use. by the way, the castle bec will require
the castle link to be able to adjust it which will increase the price unless you have a friend nearby that has one. haha
No Brainer BEC

[mooman]

Originally Posted by cabron

the towerpro 946 is a little bit stronger but what you got is not bad for the money
the 946 is in the 10.50 dollar range from china and has 12 kgs torque.
a bec will always help because it lets you use a higher voltage for the servos and get the most
torque out of them. set the bec for 7.0 volts or so (look at the max voltage in the specs for the servo)
some becs cannot be set so shop accordingly. the castle becs can be set.

if you use a bec, there are a few ways to hook them up. the simplest way is to remove the red wire from the esc
and plug the output of the bec into the receiver. ther other way is to connect the red and black wires from the servos to the bec
and the orange and black wires to the esc. when I say remove the red wire I mean pull the plug from the connector,
there is a little tab on the plastic holding the connector in. once slid out tape up the end or use small heat shrink
since that wire is hot. if you use 2 escs, do the same to both of them so you don't burn anything up.

that esc should work. you could always use 2 escs, one for each motor and run them through a y.
or better yet with a better transmitter you can use 2 channels for the escs and mix them or even just run one motor
to use as a dig setup. I like to use a stick radio to make it very usable for 2 escs and 4ws.

other mods I would suggest would be 12mm (or so) wheel extenders to widen the wheelbase. this will make the crawler
more stable specially sidehilling. of course lowering the weight as much as possible and as far forward as possible.
lower bent links will lower the chassis but still give you the clearance you need at the links.
mounting the shocks to the axle housing as opposed on the links. if you look through Freitas's thread (rs10 on r1 chassis)
you can see how he did his shock mounts, it is a pretty good way.

a 3s lipo will give you more wheel speed, your esc is already lipo ready for 3s so no problem there.

any questions do not hesitate to ask. be sure and include plenty of pictures as all of us rs10 crazies enjoy
seeing other crazies' rides.

Where do you get the 12mm wheel wideners and how do you put them on? is it a big deal type of thing or could i do it in one night?

[cabron]

wheel wideners or wheel extenders like these ....
RC4WD Mini 12mm Wheel Widener 4 RC4ZS0407 | eBay

or these ...
17mm Wheel Spacer Widener Extension 12mm Hex for 1 10 Tamiya Axial HPI RC4WD | eBay

some slip over your hexes, some replace your hexes. there are more in ebay and amazon
pretty straight forward install, sometimes the grub screw holding the stock hexes are a bit tight
on the stub axles are have put a dimple on the stub axle. those clean up easily.