Need some gen8 dimensions

[camaroboy383]

Originally Posted by brimdogg

This interests me. Following to see what you come up with, and possibly give it a go.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I'd be happy to send you a kit, or direct you to the link for download if you have a 3d printer that will print ninjaflex... if you would like a kit sent to you for testing just PM me your address....

[ferp420]

Originally Posted by camaroboy383

Trust me when I say it's not the torque or (power) wollering out the bosses... it's the sand, grit... lets put this in perspective a little bit.. if the sand and grit just polishes hardened steel, (which only the u-joint is tool steel by the way), grab a hand full of sand and grit and dump it in the engine in your car... I'm sure the hardened crank and cam need a polishing... I'm sorry but this is blatant misdirection...

Now onto the bearings, what do you beleive is the cause for a bearing to explode? It sure isn't because it's still a tight fit and lubricated... it's because either water or sand, or both have entered the races, grinding the balls and races away (which are hardened) by way of rust or grit...

The boots tearing on a rock, well yes of course, even a steel shaft will grind itself off against a rock with enough rotations.. that's a given...

These are nowhere near supposed to be a permanent fix, they are to prolong your bearing and u joint life... proper maintenance suggests your bearings and u joints should be cleaned and oiled after every dunk in water or mud.. which is still the case for proper maintenance, the seals and boots just add more protection from sand and water entering the parts...making maintenance schedules spread out some...this definitely doesnt hault all maintenance...


This is not meant to be a nasty reply, so please dont take it that way... just information... I've been in the auto industry for over 20 years and I can assure you sand and grit does not polish steel..it grinds it away...

I've had great feedback on every kit I've sold on Ebay for the gen 7.. plus if you have a 3d printer they are free to download... I design these parts for the crawling community to help people out with less parts cost...that is my main goal...

i have exploded brand new bearing its not the sand i can say that 100% positivly ive also sheared drivehafts simmiler to the style redcat uses also redcat shafts again thats tourque not sand and to go beyond your point i know the guy who used to build the engines for interstate batterys nasscar they burried there engines in the sand for a year before they machined them and apon final assembly he tossed a handfull of sand under the valve cover he did this to one of my engine when we built it he was a nasa engineere before he went to building engines the oil filter keeps the sand out of the bearings but helps break in the engine and loosen everything up he was 70 at the time that was over 22 years ago when i worked with him its old school but it worked the engine ran great till the van got hit by a tracktor and knocked the whole thing side ways while you where thinking of geting in to working in the automotive feild i was building engines and custom cars i only stoped building custom cars after having a stroke now i just build rcs i still have 5 rigs in storage whaiting for me to get around to it as far as tool steal it cuts hardend steal there are different grade of steal try taking a file to a mip drive shaft see how long it takes to make a dent in the shaft sand wont hert it try drilling a hole in a pinnion shaft under the right conditions it can be done but its not going to happen naturaly also if rocks grinding away on a shaft gouged it they would have died along time ago remeber these only way 5-15 lbs and go maybe 15 miles per hour so the ware factor just isent there i dont know how long you exspect things to last but ive got cheap chinese driveshafts that are going on 4 years some mips going on 5 years now and grind on the rocks quite a bit and show no signs of being ground down by sand or rock the rigs just dont we8gh enuff and i run mine every day being retiered they get me out of the house so i run them as much as posible and when im not running them im building them or fixing them





i totaly get what your saying and i completly see why your doing it and it has its place but i would rather spend $20 on driveshafts then try to save the stock shafts and im gona be replacing bearigs anyway thats just me though

[camaroboy383]

I like some intellectual conversation, I'm always game.. I appriciate your opinion, and always respect my elders.. I'm sorry you had a stroke and had to stop some of the things you are passionate about..that being said I'd like to touch on some sections of your reply...

first though let's find common ground if we could about the redcat gen 7 and gen 8... as you have stated these machines put out low amounts of torque and power.. they can easily be stalled in the right situation and with your hands.. and respectively they run extremely slow... agreed?

That being said, I beleive your "new" bearing explosion failure was definitely on something with substantial rpm.. my guess would be not on a low torque low power gen 7 or 8...

While talking about low power/torque I think we could both agree a stock gen 7 or 8 will not shear a pin from the u joint, nor would it tear the pin bosses into oblong holes.. it will stall the can... while you have sheared one as well as I, it was in machines with a substantial amount more power... I have successfully murdered 2 sets of shafts in one week in a mud hole with fine silt in it...you could physically see the debris form a paste similar to lapping compound.. this is and was the culprit... with boots installed I have months of that same pit under its belt with very minimal wear... I'm well aware of different steels but this is not a metallurgy conversation.. no doubt there are better shaft options.. but even those need to be rebuilt from wear.. goal here is to use 6.00 shafts and get plenty of enjoyment even in the nastiest of mud to the roof...

Now onto real life engines.. I'm with you.. I've built many many engines.. more than I could ever count including 9 and 10 second drag engines that you can go get milk at the grocery store with... everything from roots blowers to pro chargers to turbos.. literally thousands of engines.. I also actively cad/cam and cnc parts, as well as successfully modified and sold nitro engines all over the world in the past..

with all that being said as you did, does it really matter how old we are and what we have done? Not really... it doesnt make sand in an engine a good idea.. and as a side note most engineers have never ever been in the field hands on... let me remind you that NASA engineers fail daily, repetitively, and the guys that are hands on get to tell them get back to drawing pictures... this again holds no wieght at all...

Ok so you pour sand in an engine valve cover for break in.. but the filter catches the sand as you stated so what's it doing? You see how this is a contradiction correct?

1 of 2 things will happen...1 the oil from the lifters/pushrods will carry the sand to the lifter valley, said valley drains off on each end of the block, also onto the cam.. cam lobes and lifters are then scarred to death with sand granuals before returning to the pan to be pumped into the filter.. what is gained from scars on the lobe and lifter? That's sounds like a lifter not taking in the making... lol it rhymes...

Scenario 2, the sand is carried to the end valley returns and returned to the pan, then to the filter to catch it... what was gained for break in? Besides not scarring the crap out of the lobes and lifters...

Now what I have seen from professional engine builders of the old days they used bon am or borax and made a light paste... they would rub the cylinders with the paste after the piston was installed.. this aided in ring break in.. this actually serves a purpose, or did... with the constant change in engine building the hone degree was dialed in as well as ring metallurgy, eliminating the need of break in aids...

I implore you to talk to any machine shop, professinal engine builder, manufacturer, gm, chrysler, ford, honda, etc. in the world, ask them if a handful of sand is a good idea for engine break in.. remember, engines have air filters for a reason.. because rings, valve seats/guides and cylinders dont like dirt/ sand...it wears metal no matter what...

Thank you for seeing a need for the boots, and I appriciate that they aren't for you, but please please please dont dismiss facts of true failure circumstances.... and please keep the sand in your own engines....lol.. thanks for reading...

[ferp420]

Originally Posted by camaroboy383

I like some intellectual conversation, I'm always game.. I appriciate your opinion, and always respect my elders.. I'm sorry you had a stroke and had to stop some of the things you are passionate about..that being said I'd like to touch on some sections of your reply...

first though let's find common ground if we could about the redcat gen 7 and gen 8... as you have stated these machines put out low amounts of torque and power.. they can easily be stalled in the right situation and with your hands.. and respectively they run extremely slow... agreed?

That being said, I beleive your "new" bearing explosion failure was definitely on something with substantial rpm.. my guess would be not on a low torque low power gen 7 or 8...

While talking about low power/torque I think we could both agree a stock gen 7 or 8 will not shear a pin from the u joint, nor would it tear the pin bosses into oblong holes.. it will stall the can... while you have sheared one as well as I, it was in machines with a substantial amount more power... I have successfully murdered 2 sets of shafts in one week in a mud hole with fine silt in it...you could physically see the debris form a paste similar to lapping compound.. this is and was the culprit... with boots installed I have months of that same pit under its belt with very minimal wear... I'm well aware of different steels but this is not a metallurgy conversation.. no doubt there are better shaft options.. but even those need to be rebuilt from wear.. goal here is to use 6.00 shafts and get plenty of enjoyment even in the nastiest of mud to the roof...

Now onto real life engines.. I'm with you.. I've built many many engines.. more than I could ever count including 9 and 10 second drag engines that you can go get milk at the grocery store with... everything from roots blowers to pro chargers to turbos.. literally thousands of engines.. I also actively cad/cam and cnc parts, as well as successfully modified and sold nitro engines all over the world in the past..

with all that being said as you did, does it really matter how old we are and what we have done? Not really... it doesnt make sand in an engine a good idea.. and as a side note most engineers have never ever been in the field hands on... let me remind you that NASA engineers fail daily, repetitively, and the guys that are hands on get to tell them get back to drawing pictures... this again holds no wieght at all...

Ok so you pour sand in an engine valve cover for break in.. but the filter catches the sand as you stated so what's it doing? You see how this is a contradiction correct?

1 of 2 things will happen...1 the oil from the lifters/pushrods will carry the sand to the lifter valley, said valley drains off on each end of the block, also onto the cam.. cam lobes and lifters are then scarred to death with sand granuals before returning to the pan to be pumped into the filter.. what is gained from scars on the lobe and lifter? That's sounds like a lifter not taking in the making... lol it rhymes...

Scenario 2, the sand is carried to the end valley returns and returned to the pan, then to the filter to catch it... what was gained for break in? Besides not scarring the crap out of the lobes and lifters...

Now what I have seen from professional engine builders of the old days they used bon am or borax and made a light paste... they would rub the cylinders with the paste after the piston was installed.. this aided in ring break in.. this actually serves a purpose, or did... with the constant change in engine building the hone degree was dialed in as well as ring metallurgy, eliminating the need of break in aids...

I implore you to talk to any machine shop, professinal engine builder, manufacturer, gm, chrysler, ford, honda, etc. in the world, ask them if a handful of sand is a good idea for engine break in.. remember, engines have air filters for a reason.. because rings, valve seats/guides and cylinders dont like dirt/ sand...it wears metal no matter what...

Thank you for seeing a need for the boots, and I appriciate that they aren't for you, but please please please dont dismiss facts of true failure circumstances.... and please keep the sand in your own engines....lol.. thanks for reading...

first of all your a good guy most people would resort to name calling by now so right on

the bearings exploding is on crawlers my wraith eats them i can explode bearings at will i my 1/8 scale trucks also eat bearings they to will explode bearings and snap shafts with just a blip of the throtle why worrie about bearings when im already ordering them by the tube



the sand is extremely fine sand its the sand you find 8n your intake after a day out in the sand dunes it more resembles polishing compound than playground sand so theres no gouging going on and gets flushed out but every one knows loose motors make better horese power so when thats your goal it makes sence there not neerly as reliable but hay and besides out here theres no way to keep it out of anything so it gona happen and honestly i dont see a differance between the borax and sand seeing as how borax is just a soft sand so different substance but same theory he liked to loosen up the valve train and it helps mate the push rods in there cups the cam lobs just get a nice polishing because the cam shaft is again hardend steel and sand wont hurt it becaus its soft fine sand i mean dude how much metal gets flushed out in the oil during break in thats way more a issue than the sand and it still happens today all engines need break in most companys do that before the vehicle hits the lots hence why they all have a few miles on them also they already did the break in the last new car i had had break i instructions in the manual so the dealers still see the need on the other hand i know a old guy who seas drive it like you stole it right from the get go and i have seen no ill affects just change the oil alot



the last time i went to a dealer i had to school them on how to put a 5" lift on a subaru wagon and were i got the bumpers and tube fenders and snorkle then explain how i got a extra 50hp out of that turd of a engine when there are absolutly no performance parts available for that engine of any kind or any kind of aftermarket even the subaru gurus are like what how heres a short vid of my last build in the mud hole

ttps://youtu.be/IXxKtU2hIAc

they offered me a job they sead they just wanted my rig parked in front of there shop lol



needless to say i would never try to get advice from a keyboard jockey with a wrench or more cominly known these days as a automotive technition all they know how to do is replace parts that the computer tells them is broken

try geting someone to work on a air cooled engine the dealer wouldent even know were to star they be like standing infront of tbe car with the hood up asking weres the motor ya its that bad the simplest motor ever made and they wont work on it because it dosent have a diognotic port



the engineer from nasa failed daily because we dident have cad or computer modoling or cnc machines everything was made by a person and tested then re made then tested and sometimes redesigned thats how we did it before windows was a computer thing
im the type of guy who will grab a file and whittle down custom parts




as far as my health its cool im a grown man i can take anything now the poo has hit the fan all thats left to do now is deal and i got real lucky and mostly recovered but because i turned a wrench for so long my hands are shot and thats the most frustrating of all especialy hard when working on toy trucks



as far as the toy trucks go i dont have a g7 but i do have the e10 its going on 4 years now i havent touched the front axle at all not op3ned it up for nothing i did replace the bearings in the rear axle like 2 years ago and th3 trans cracked in half and got replaced the new trans had new bearings i replaced the shafts the firs5 week wi5h $12 chinese drive shafts and they have been beat on for 4 years now with no signs of ware i put the e10 shafts on another rig and snap not even a full run the gen8 will.be getting a.set of.$20 gds driveshafts there no mips but ive had good luck with them ill never have to replace them and they dont need any maintinance till the pin breaks then just replace the pin i dont see any reason to run a part that i know is gona fail at the worst time let alone replace sead part with the same part once you bought 2 stock shafts your at the price of a cheap aftermarket set

so back to the original point lol otters oh wait i dident have a point originaly lol