Redcat Camo X4 info, mods, tuning thread

[mtnwheeling]

Clocked mine at 39mph on 3s today. Just couldn't get to 40mph. 3s breaks things like upper rear links so while the JB Weld was holding up fine I decided to replace them with something more "universal". I ordered "Husky Links" off ebay in the 130mm length paired with the Traxxas angled rod ends = 150mm, actually 152.5mm to match the X4 length. I think the 135mm rods would have been a better choice since these are not fully threaded it.

[chazekxt]

thanks for the update. I ordered some links for the rock ray hope that works

[chazekxt]

where are all the x4 guys at any update's

[mtnwheeling]

My new upper links are holding up great, so far the next weak spot has not shown itself. Did you get your Losi Rock Rey links yet?

[chazekxt]

yea I used some upper link's for a losi rock ray had to shim the upper's some but they work

[mtnwheeling]

I learned what effect different size rear sway bars have. Larger = less torque twist when applying full throttle but more traction rolling. Smaller = more torque twist under acceleration but less traction rolling when turning sharply. Stock is a 2mm wire and I installed a 2.4mm. While straight line traction and torque twist were improved with the 2.4mm bar, the X4 rolled over much easier in almost every other situation. I also ran it without the rear sway bar but it was all the opposite problems of the 2.4mm bar. I'm sticking with the stock 2mm bar for now.

Keep in mind I have a 2.2mm front sway bar installed while doing all this testing.

[chazekxt]

nice info

[bgredjeep]

This weekend I did a little experimenting with the front suspension and steering links. My car has always had an issue where the front wheels toe out a good bit right when the suspension hits full droop. I presume this is common with everyone's camo. This makes it really hard to dial in the steering since I set that all at level ride height. It also made it really hard to control on a full throttle blast when it switches from a few degrees toed in, to a few toed out as soon as you take off

After a few tests, I came up with a couple spacers on the steering link and the toe change is all but eliminated. It still toes in slightly at full compression, but I don't think that's an issue since it won't ride there. Here's pics of the spacers I used. These were taken with the car upside down fyi. The upper link position is also shown in the last picture as this all works together.

The result.

[chazekxt]

thanks for the info

[mtnwheeling]

Thanks for this info. I did a similar mod and it helps with the toe.

Are you running Axial beadlocks with Flat Irons? How is the axle nut thread engagement with those and which width hub are you using?

[mtnwheeling]

Originally Posted by bgredjeep

Nice find.

A guy on the camo fb group posted that hpi nitro rs4 diff cups fit in the camo diff and are harder than stock. I haven't had trouble with mine yet so I can't confirm.

Part number: Hpia558

EDIT: I just installed the HPI A558 outdrive cups. I will post a durability update in a few weeks. They use a 2mm E-clip not the 2.5mm E-clip the X4 uses, so have those on hand if you are going to do the "upgrade". The stock outdrives wore out pretty quickly, they look worse than the one in your picture.

[bgredjeep]

Originally Posted by mtnwheeling

I just installed the HPI A558 outdrive cups. I will post a durability update in a few weeks. They use a 2.5mm E-clip not the 3mm E-clip the X4 uses, so have those on hand if you are going to do the "upgrade". The stock outdrives wore out pretty quickly, they look worse than the one in your picture.

I tried to install mine a couple weeks ago when I was adding some 200k silicone but found the e clip difference you mentioned. My stock outdrives were still in good shape so I just left them in for now. Other than the smaller e clip they fit perfect.

[bgredjeep]

Originally Posted by mtnwheeling

Are you running Axial beadlocks with Flat Irons? How is the axle nut thread engagement with those and which width hub are you using?

Yeah, I had them on my bomber but I wanted to run the treps on the Bomber. It's got the wider (12mm?) hex adapters installed. The flat irons are a lot bigger than the treps i had on there before. They seem to work well.

*edit* btw, the flat irons were a pita to mount on the axial wheels. They kept trying to spit the bead out when I started tightening them down. After a few tries I got them installed and they have held together fine.

[mtnwheeling]

I mounted some PL Swamper XL's on Axial beadlocks and had the same issue. Once they are on they seem fine, but keeping it all together during assembly wasn't easy.


Is the 200k diff oil working well? Doesn't it leak out since Redcat doesn't use a gasket between the ring gear and diff cup?

[bgredjeep]

Originally Posted by mtnwheeling

Is the 200k diff oil working well? Doesn't it leak out since Redcat doesn't use a gasket between the ring gear and diff cup?

It's not really thick enough to work like I hoped. I want this car to be capable of running in rocks so I'm looking for more of a tight limited slip. It feels more like a worn out posi instead. Maybe some 500k will get me there.

As for leaking, it may, but the fluid is very thick so we'll see. I haven't noticed it yet but I've only had a few mins runtime since I rebuilt the diff.

[mtnwheeling]

I recently installed a SkyRC GC301 Gyro in my X4 and WOW what a difference! The X4 used to kick sideways and veer off course in rough terrain. Now the car tracks incredibly straight through chunky stuff. For $20 shipped it seems like a great addition. No wonder all the new Horizon Hobby stuff is coming with AVC, it helps a lot. The car almost seems slow now because it is so much easier to control. I had to reverse the steering switch on the gyro so it would respond in the correct direction. I left the "gain" at the 50% point and it seems good there.

[bgredjeep]

Originally Posted by mtnwheeling

I recently installed a SkyRC GC301 Gyro in my X4 and WOW what a difference!

You know, my radiolink rc4g has a gyro in the receiver, but after messing around with it on my old Slash I didn't see the point so I switched it off. If course the Slash didn't have a tendency to roll over either.

I went ahead and switched it on in the camo (had to remount the receiver as it was on its side in the box) today and did a quick test and it's promising. I'll have to do some testing to see how aggressive it needs to be set to balance stability with still being able to turn.

Good call, and worth a shot for sure.

[bgredjeep]

I did the 500k diff fluid today. I also added an Axial diff seal to try and make sure it stays in there. No trouble on the install. I did a quick test in the backyard and, it's not going to be a crawler but, it's not completely useless in the rocks now.

Also, on the gyro. I think I might need to try 3s now. Lol

I just ran around for a few minutes on a 1/2 charged pack and it actually felt a little slower to me. Much less dramatic. I ran the gyro around 50% to start. Higher than that and it just doesn't want to turn. I can probably still dial it down to find the right balance.

[mtnwheeling]

Thanks for the update on the diff fluid. You could always order another rear diff/locker and put it in the front since it shares the same outdrives.


I upsized my rear swaybar now that I have the gyro and it seems to be an overall improvement. The local hobby store sells "piano wire" in many different sizes. It is apparently really good for swaybars since it is spring steel. I made one out of 2.4mm or 0.01" wire and the torque twist on takeoff is very much reduced. I tried this before without the gyro and it seemed to roll over a lot easier but with the gyro its awesome. I think I'm going to go back to 3S as well, it just seems so slow on 2S now.


Installed some Duratrax Showdown tires as well. These severely need dual stage foams for high speed use. They grip really well but probably wont last long since they are really for crawler use but they look awesome.

[bgredjeep]

Well, I'm solving the slipper clutch problem. Axial scx10 trans going into my camo. I've got the trans mounted and everything clears. I ordered a shorter dogbone for the front and a yeti mip rear shaft, plus a 24mm drive hub for the rear shaft. I still need to make a new chassis brace that will also be the battery mount. I should have everything finished up this week baring any shipping delays.

I did have one issue with clearance for the pinion after I initially mounted everything. I underestimated the size difference between the .6 mod pinion and a 32 pitch (both 13t) so when my new pinion showed up today it was hitting the chassis at the lower link mount. I just slotted the holes in the chassis and was able to clear everything. I'll update again once I get the rest of the parts.

The green aluminum is used to level the mounting surface, and sandwich the chassis.




I'll remake this piece a bit nicer after I get it working