Any help would be awesome!! Rear axle problems!!

[MICHI450]

Just picked up the Trail King builders kit!! Rear axle is binding not sure why. Only thing I can think is pinion gear (I believe that's the gear it is) is to long and hitting where ring gear mounts. See picture. I've taken apart rear axle and looked multiple times. Everything looks correct according to book. Sent message ssd couple days ago haven't heard back yet, so figured I'd ask here.

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[mikemcE]

In your pictures the bearing is not all the way in. If it’s the pinion, your inner bearing might not be fully seated


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[Bob_in az]

Just stating the obvious, but do you have the correct size pinion bearing in there & is it seated properly? I had to use a little bit of force to seat it. Definitely tight tolerances.

[HumboldtEF]

Did you double check bearing sizes? the inner pinion bearing should be a 5x14x5.

Also did you test with the driveshafts attached? they tend to pull the pinion away from the ring gear.

[MICHI450]

I did try and press the bearing in with a clamp and used an electrical twist cap to reach out of the pumpkin, like in pictures. Just to point where things felt close to breaking something, no luck. Have not finished with build yet so haven't tried with drive line hooked up. Did try pulling and twisting where drive line would hook up and it did ok one way but binding other way (like driving in reverse). Should be correct bearing as far as I remember there was only one different sized bearing in axle bags. I can check again when off work this evening. Also please note, picture in first post are just showing the wear marks. I believe it's the pinion gear is too long or were the bearing rest in pumpkin is not correct. Was hoping it was something I missed or messed up.

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[MICHI450]

Also thanks for input guys.

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[HumboldtEF]

If you do tear down the axle snap a picture showing the inner pinion bearing. Measure the inner bearing as well as the bearings on the ring gear.

I can definitely see the witness marks on the Ring gear/spool something isn't right for sure.

[mikemcE]

Use both bearings to seat the pinion inner bearing fully. By using both inner and outer bearings the shaft centers everything, and then press in by hand, it will snap and seat.


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[meatmonkey]

I had to use quite a bit of force to fully seat the inner pinion bearing. I would guess yours isn't quite fully seated. Dont bother checking gear mesh until the driveshaft is installed. Due to the nature of hypoid gears the pinion is pushed out in one direction of rotation and pulled in in the other direction.

[MICHI450]

Ok I went and bought a caliper so i be 100% and wasn't using a tape measure. Checked with book on all three measurements of each bearing.















After I tighten the four bolts to hold the ring gear and bearings in place it binds. It binds unless I pull the shaft that driveline hooks to. Does ok with it hanging by it's own weight but still rubs a little. Front axle I can push in on that shaft and no binding.

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[Xx Losungen xX]

Originally Posted by MICHI450

Haven't tried with drive line hooked up. Did try pulling and twisting where drive line would hook up and it did ok one way but binding other way (like driving in reverse).

That's normal, try with the driveshaft attached, it pulls the pinion into place.

[mikemcE]

Pull both pinion bearings , I see a difference between the bearing and housing(phone pictures) the inner one needs to snap all the way down, some force helps. Yours is not the first one, so I lean towards pilot error. When the pinion is hitting the locker, either the pinion is too high, the locker too low, or the injection mold made the impossible dream. Think through this logically.


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[MICHI450]

I can feel it pop down into place by hand and even went overkill after putting in by hand and used a clamp (which I really don't like putting that kinda force or feel it should take that much to put this small of bearing in).





Before putting the clamp to it, I did put it in by hand with both bearings in place and pinion gear through bearings, like someone said above to make sure its squared up. I've cross checked with book measurements on all bearings before installing. Front axle went together smoothly and works great. No driveline connected to the shaft, I can push and pull while turning nothing binds ever. I will admit I have not tried with driveline hooked up and will do tonight. I'll also tear down front driveline and cross measure all the gears and bearings with rear. Guessing they should be same sizes, but not really sure. Ssd did email me back yesterday and said hook driveline up as well, so I'll hope that's it. But why is front one ok and rear isn't with out driveline hooked up. And I have my bomber tore down if I recall nothing binds on those axles with out driveline.

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[Xx Losungen xX]

These are toys, the tolerances aren't anywhere near exact. You'll see minor differences between two axles quite often. Typically, the driveshaft needs to be connected to correct what you are seeing, sometimes not, like you are also seeing. If you're ocd like me and that's not enough, shims are your friend.

[MICHI450]

Driveline hooked up it rubs a little but does not bind and lock up like before. It feels like when I press in on shaft with no driveline hooked up on both the front axle and one of my bomber axles (other is in peaces haha). I guess after reading others builds and reviews I bought this with really high expectations. Don't get me wrong everything else is up to par to what I expected. I'm more OCD than I thought and would love for it to feel like the front, nice and smooth. I still might file or grind an little off the top of pinion gear. And yes they're just toys, but expensive toys Thanks again everyone.

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[OSRC]

It's the nature of the hypoid gears and the high pinion, which the Bomber does not have. A little filing on the pinion could help for sure, just don't overdo it.

On any of the high pinion axles (SSD, AR44, etc) I add a 5mm shim between the center driveshaft and bearing face to take out any slop. Technically, they'll float ok when driving but I prefer to keep them fixed if possible.

On a side note, my TK was a bit loud gear-wise when built, but quieted down a lot after the first run. It's all but silent now.

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by OSRC

It's the nature of the hypoid gears and the high pinion
On a side note, my TK was a bit loud gear-wise when built, but quieted down a lot after the first run. It's all but silent now.

Good point Sometimes when my diffs feel tight I'll chuck up the pinion output in a drill and run it in a bit to accomplish this, just make sure you 're pulling the pinion outwards as you do this so the ring gear isn't pulling the pinion into it.

[Timmahh]

Just got the metal rear tubes for both my SSD Kits (2nd SSD kit wont be here till tomorrow though).

So I'll be building two of these rear axle setups in the next two days. I'll report back anything I find along the way, or don't find along the way.

[Timmahh]

Got both sets of f and r axles built. both went well no shims needed. each pinion on both rear and front axles slide in and out of the housing just little bit. I tried a shim on the rear when I built the first one, pushing the pinion just a little more into the gear. It actually felt like it bound up a little bit more. New Gear, helical cuts, will be a bit 'rough' until they are run a little bit. Attaching the drive shafts can help keep the pinon from drifting in as it spins, which stops a bit of that thightness.

As others have said, once its run in a little bit, that should go away. My first run on this SSD kit. No Shims in either sets of axles or trannys. Everything has been pretty decent so far in the builds.

I would say ensure bearings are squarely and fully seated. so long as they are, put it together, run it a bit, and it should smooth out after a bit of use and wear in. Even these Expensive Toys have a wear in period on new parts. Just like the 1:1s.

[Xx Losungen xX]

Pinion I usually use a Teflon shim on the outside between the shaft and the housing just to ensure absolutely no drift in or out.