e's ExMT

[ekd]

Clamping this way can generate much more force than needed.

I saved a lot of MC clutch and F brake levers in my day by pointing out to clients and friends that they didn't need to be tight enough to hang the bike by... as long as they don't move during use, they are tight enough and can be rotated back into position after a drop.

This setup, barely tightened (with Nylock nuts), is quite firm... but a stiff push will move it, rather than break the mount ears.

If I post rambling ranting, you'll know I bought and emptied my motor protectors. This will clamp them on nicely, I'm guessing.

Edit: If you have ever tried to go through a set of handlebars, you'll know why I never overtightened mine. Dead serious here... A guy left his nuts/guts on a friend's Interceptor, it had those "cool" bars molded into the upper triple tree. They emptied his lower abdomen. I resolved right then to only use clip-ons on my street racers, torqued just enough.

[ekd]

At full compression (73mm GC) the lower links touch the upper link mounts, the upper link touches the lowers and the motor. The nuts holding the lower links are held by the floor of the pan (3"x1"x1/8" 6063), so they don't need a wrench to tighten them. I'll set the upper shock mounts so the shocks will stop it all just before all of the contacts occur, and internally limit them to get a reasonable GC at rest.

Max articulation is just a bit more than the tires are tall, and there is good clearance between the ESC and the suspension.

The rotating chuck for my tailstock came today, CVs will be up as soon as time permits.

[ekd]

The 5 hour guard is a good crud shield for the endbell.

[ekd]

Wiring's tidied up a bit. This motor setup will go on the front, due to the placement of it's wires through the shield. I have a better idea for the R routing now.

[ekd]

Started by truing the face of the flange, it was way off. It took .5mm to get it flat. The (trans housing) boss originally fit in roughly that much too shallow, so the fit turned out just right. It's quite rigid... and lost the forward sweep (and misalignment).

The rest went pretty much as planned. Infinitely clockable.

[dannymac]

Do you have more picks of what you did also woundering what parts you used and how well this will work

Originally Posted by ekd

Started by truing the face of the flange, it was way off. It took .5mm to get it flat. The (trans housing) boss originally fit in roughly that much too shallow, so the fit turned out just right. It's quite rigid... and lost the forward sweep (and misalignment).

The rest went pretty much as planned. Infinitely clockable.

[ekd]

I didn't take more, but here's the list of Maxstone parts:

51C875 1/8th Exceed RC MaxStone Rock Crawler Spare Part Check out the beefy optional aluminum Cs and knuckles.

All I did was combine the two types by turning the Mad housings, in a lathe, down to fit tightly inside the Max's... then cutting them to length.

Post #17 shows the bearing sizes of the two. I'm doing this for the increased durability, the stronger and simpler mounts, and the ability to re-clock for various GC and caster settings in a quick and repeatable way. Set up this way, the steering gear will not need to be changed when changing the degree of clock... it all will follow the C's angle. The Max Cs are already set at 10 degrees caster, so the mounts will remain more parallel to the ground as the caster is tuned in.

The bottoms of the mounts need to be altered to prevent snagging, and the angles have to be set and pinned.

I'll do a better job documenting this here, soon. It was just an experiment, but I like the results... and really like how simple this will make building strong braces and mounts. The much better alignment can't hurt, either.

Welcome to the Mad club, D. Read all you can here, there are some damn good threads on these... they convinced me to go with this rig, and I couldn't be happier with mine.

Originally Posted by dannymac

Do you have more picks of what you did also woundering what parts you used and how well this will work

[dannymac]

yes i have looked at many of the exceed mad torque build threads and this seems like it would be the best way to make clockable axles and get stronger axle stubs can't wait to see what you do next.
Also are you gonna use the maxstones dogbones or the mad torques and if you use the maxstones is there enough room in the madtorque end to fit the maxstone inner bearing as arent the dogbones bigger around and have bigger bearing?

srry for all the questions just want to make sure i order all the right parts

[ekd]

D, please don't apologize for asking me anything. And, if I find something interesting in it, I'm happy to be hijacked as well... keep that in mind? I lurked for most of a couple years here, while my first thread was treated very seriously (torque twist, I was going to start with a shafty)... so, I'm just trying to pull my own weight here. And, the fact that I really enjoy brainstorming with like minded folks might have something to do with it...

This setup is getting modded Savage CVs. I haven't messed with the Max axles. I'm trying to avoid the steering limits and the stub frailty with 1 mod.

I'm still refining the design. There are a lot of possibilities here... the fact that the Cs are mirrored at 10 degrees means that if I cut the molded in hex ends into 12 facets, and mix the Cs side to side, I will have multiple options for the clocking of them in relationship to the mounts.

I'm only building 1 axle right now, as a proto. As setup is most of the time consumed in machining, when I have a set of good, hard numbers I plan to do a small run for myself.

If there is any interest at that point, I'll write a Mad/Max Axle thread with all the steps and hard numbers (parts and dimensions). As these might be good for crawling as much as this thread's Rover, I'll put it where it can be seen...lol.

Sound good?

[Abavuso]

Honestly the only part that I think you would really need to turn is the end of the MT axle so that you can fit that C on the end!!! I think that would be about a perfect fit and fix all the clocking issues I 've had.

[ekd]

Originally Posted by Abavuso

Honestly the only part that I think you would really need to turn is the end of the MT axle so that you can fit that C on the end!!! I think that would be about a perfect fit and fix all the clocking issues I 've had.

I'm after the mounts, too, but you are right... there is plenty of material to cut them that way too. It would allow the use of all the mounts/braces you already have fabbed.... and would give you infinitely clockable caster. The max housings go to a smaller ID (9mm) at the ends... enough smaller to cut in any kind of overlap you need.

As pretty as custom delrin tubes are, the number of machine setups/passes it takes to make mounts, 2 piece tubes, flanges w/mount holes and C mounts... make this conversion the easiest and cheapest option by far. And, when it comes time for the 2.2 Mad... Easy and stout will be an understatement.

A, the trans/tube misalignment was worse than it looked by eye. You might want to face your flanges, in any case. PM me if you need turning done, until you get your lathe. We'll call it restitution for the time I stole a Losi Strike trans from that "Zindle" guy, on ebay...

edit: Has anyone ever broken the Mad Cs? If not, I'll proto out an infinitely clockable setup that uses them. If so, I'll make one for the Axial. It's only 2 more turned spacers for the fixture I already made... and would also make a nice 2.2 axle.

Also, I'm going to try a design that has an inner ultra light aluminum tube, stout brace, and delrin tubes sheathing the aluminum with just enough clearance to allow them to roll over sharp obstacles.

I'll get the shine off the Grizzly soon enough.

[John-e Bravada]

I haven't broken inner tubes but I do have a couple stripped kingpin threads and a broken outer knuckle.

[ekd]

Originally Posted by John-e Bravada

I haven't broken inner tubes but I do have a couple stripped kingpin threads and a broken outer knuckle.

3mm does seem a little puny for this task.

The Mad/Max proto is done. I'm going to make more as soon as I can get the parts in for 1 good run.

[asw27x]

it looks a lit like a plastic berg axle

[ekd]

Originally Posted by asw27x

it looks a lit like a plastic berg axle

It kinda does. I'll call that a good thing...

One of the important (read expensive) lessons I learned in my little slaughterhouse is to isolate suspension shock loads from the powertrain. I have been known to go to some effort to do so... but, this time it was easy.

[ekd]

Side by side.

The Max knuckle arms give a lot of options for steering geometry. This one gets zero Ackerman.

[ekd]

I just ordered enough parts to convert 4 more axles. These are a no-brainer to me... the strength and myriad of adjustments are worth far more than the $12 per axle (including knuckles) they cost.

The proper alignment probably matters even more to me than it will to the bearing's longevity... if you build a hollow transaxle of each, and look through them... the stockers aren't even close. It's a hideous fit.

The CV setup is figured out. I'll make sub-axles that can accept nearly any end out there (lots of space inside the joint). It's easier and stronger than any other method, and will give whatever choice of steering angles the builder can afford. There is plenty of room for up to 7mm of shaft... and room in the stubs to bore for more.

[Abavuso]

very nice, I want some

[ekd]

PM me, A. It'll happen.

Here's the deal: I love design/proto... then the first of a run gives me some pride, and the second gives me rhythm, but the third and beyond... bore me to tears.

The truth is that although my shop rate, before I retired, was actually pretty reasonable (for CA)... It was never cheap. I have a pretty good idea what the vendors here are looking at for costs... and I'm not really interested in ever being a vendor. I see a few of these guys who I know are offering real value here... and know it ain't easy to do so.

I am, however, always interested in an interesting trade. As I stated, I'll be doing 1 run for myself. I am willing to tack a few sets on to the end of it, for guys who have already posted here, if there is need.

I will be making a set of proto axles soon. When I'm satisfied with the design, I'll line up the tubes, cut a lifetime supply, then fill them.

Then I have some truly odd ideas I am itching to get to (that no one else will want).

[ekd]

It'll work.