Sub-Par Super Build- MT

[Crawl in Az]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

If you ever have a problem breaking tubes where you moved the servo forward into it, try moving the motor back next time and see if you can leave the tube.

Not sure I follow you, I'll have to look inside the case, but by moving the motor back won't it also change contact on the pinion gear?

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

If you want to try and get those shocks out of the way you could reduce their overall length just a touch to do this. It looks like you have external limiters on the shock shaft so maybe you could simply screw the shock shaft as far in on the rod end as possible? This makes the shock shorter and also acts as a limiter. You could also cut down the bottom one. Maybe you have already done this....? Shortening the shock will do a lot to get it above the link and bring the height of the car down.

Good point, I'll try that! I was more focused on no spring pre-load. I think I've seen a guy that makes "no pre-load shock cups". But I'm cheap at times

[Crawl in Az]

Originally Posted by cabron

how long are those universal axles? from the universal pin to the dogbone pin
do the fit into the bully knuckles? what bearings?

Universal Pin - Dog bone is 3.5" or 89mm
Universal Pin - wheel hub pin is 25mm

I used the Bully knuckles with an 8x12x3.5mm bearing from nitrorcx.com

Ball Bearings 8X12X3.5 6P

One inner bearing and two outer bearings then a standard 1/8 scale 17mm wheel hub/hex. Here are some cheap ones: 17mm Hex Hub $3.75 for 4 hubs is pretty hard to beat!

The stub shaft uses a 2.5mm cross pin for the wheel hub. I would imagine the hubs above would also be 2.5mm. The hubs I already had used a 3mm pin so I just drilled the stub shaft out.

[Crawl in Az]

Okay, So I went to my second comp Sunday and made some good progress. Still not on the same level as the others but not quite as embarrassing as my first time out. I could immediately notice the stability of the lower ride height but still need to get the Sedona's on.



The stock dual ESCs seemed to do fine with with Castle BEC on 3S.

I had some previous experience with a stick controller and rear steer but no dig/ bias. This was my first run out with dual ESC and WOW that complicates the driving on the sticks. My left stick controlling the rear motor was not spring loaded so it was a lot to adjust. I like the throttle control of a pistol and will work with it for now.

The biggest short coming will soon be drive time. My goal is to get the Hacked GT3B going and see if this super can actually complete 3 courses.

On the last course I broke a molded knuckle on the front axle. I had previously drilled the webbing which weakened the inner c. I'll try another set out of curiosity as I think these may still hold up. Either way, down the road I'll get the AX10 inner C's like the rear.



Next up will be the front axle-
-Shafts (same as rear)
-Bully Knuckles -Knuckle weights
-upgrade the small 3rd to take the abuse of good tires and wheel weight
I'll also need to get something better going for a chassis.

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by Crawl in Az

Not sure I follow you, I'll have to look inside the case, but by moving the motor back won't it also change contact on the pinion gear?



Good point, I'll try that! I was more focused on no spring pre-load. I think I've seen a guy that makes "no pre-load shock cups". But I'm cheap at times

Yeah, moving it back will change the mesh but thats why you move it up also. Moving it up gets it closer, moving it back takes it further away. Search the Berg section. Anybody who puts the servo between the axle and motor must do this.

Yeah, pre load could mess your day up. You could go to a softer spring, shorter spring or even cut your spring down to help with this. Of course you could to the no pre load cups too

[Crawl in Az]

Alright, cool. I'll add that to the list when I do the front axle.

Thank you.

[bquin]

Well looks like you may need to come over and look at that chassis and links.....trade you for a twelve pack.........












No seriously.....

[Crawl in Az]

Thank for the hook up Brandon!

More to come on this later. This Sub-Par Crawler may actually turn into an old school bad ass!

[Crawl in Az]

Got my Fly Sky GT-3B hacked and configured. Took a little bit to figure out the menus but was well worth the headache.



Here is how I set up the controller:
Rear Steer is on the -D/R+ (Top slider button on grip)
Dig & bias control the Dual ESC on Ch3 Trim (Bottom slider button on grip)
Both the rear steer and Dig are set up in 20% steps with a long hold (1 sec) will either move to end point or back to center.
The bottom button labeled “CH3” is set up as a simple reset for the dig/bias. It will beep and reset back to 0 or equal power to both axles.

I’ve been able to run a few packs and so far I’m real pleased with it how natural it comes. The dig reset seems pretty helpful eliminating the need to look at the display. I like the dig integrated with the bias and have already found it helpful on obstacles. The stock ESC is not programable so I can basically adjust the drag brake allowing the channel to serve a dual purpose of dig and bias. I couldn’t think of much use for the crab or 4 wheel steer options. I had them on my stick controller switches, they are cool for driving around in the living room but didn't ever find them to be much help on real obstacles. I'd prefer to just operate them independently.

To make the slider buttons easier to find it seems most add a screw or bolt to make the button larger. I used a 6mm socket head bolt and it works pretty well.

[Crawl in Az]

At the same time as getting the new controller I was able to get the Sedona’s on.



I know this thing still has a long way to go but good tires and foams alone has made a noticeable difference. The old tires had 5oz. per front tire of stick on weights to help move weight forward. The Sedona’s climb an hook up much better. They don’t even have any weight yet but do weigh about 1oz more per tire/wheel combo.

[Crawl in Az]

Ujoint axles and bully knuckles done in the front. I didn't mess with lowering the servo down between the motor and axle tube for now, but will look towards this down the road like the rear is set up.



I was able to cut out some wheel weight holders from 1/4" plastic. I drilled and tapped the bully knuckle for a 3mm bolt to hold the plastic onto knuckle.



A few thoughts/ questions I had about wheel weights: (Please give me your thoughts)
1. I like the idea of putting the weight in front of the axle so it can still be effective on the front tires on steep verticals instead of transferring to the rears. Not sure if it makes a difference, but it makes sense in my head.
2. Are wheel weights ever used to balance the rig? I'm running my battery on the front axle so to balance the axle I added more weight to the drivers side than the passenger side. (apx 2.5 oz more on the driver side)

To my surprise the front small 3rd is still holding up. I ordered some goodies from D_Lux in anticipation of the small 3rd breaking and knock on wood it has been holding up fine.... Could be I'm still running the stock motors....

My driving still needs work but here is a climb at my little testing area. RC Super class Crawl - YouTube

[2WheelFlyer]

nice video man! talk about performance improvement over stock!

I'd say you can add one more bolt on the left to balance your battery on the right, will do no harm and might help the rig perform the same in off camber situations to the left and to the right.

[nappahdog]

1. I like the idea of putting the weight in front of the axle so it can still be effective on the front tires on steep verticals instead of transferring to the rears. Not sure if it makes a difference, but it makes sense in my head.

forward and low is the way to go.


2. Are wheel weights ever used to balance the rig? I'm running my battery on the front axle so to balance the axle I added more weight to the drivers side than the passenger side. (apx 2.5 oz more on the driver side)

I wouldn't worry about it...the motors offset that weight enough im sure

[bquin]

Originally Posted by nappahdog

1. I like the idea of putting the weight in front of the axle so it can still be effective on the front tires on steep verticals instead of transferring to the rears. Not sure if it makes a difference, but it makes sense in my head.

forward and low is the way to go.


2. Are wheel weights ever used to balance the rig? I'm running my battery on the front axle so to balance the axle I added more weight to the drivers side than the passenger side. (apx 2.5 oz more on the driver side)

I wouldn't worry about it...the motors offset that weight enough im sure

I agree with nappahdog.....weight distribution looks fine. Super looks good Sean.....keep up the good work

[Crawl in Az]

Originally Posted by 2WheelFlyer

nice video man! talk about performance improvement over stock!

I'm pretty surprised with how well it's doing. I'm anxious to get around other Supers again and see how it measures up now....

[Crawl in Az]

Originally Posted by 2WheelFlyer

I'd say you can add one more bolt on the left to balance your battery on the right, will do no harm and might help the rig perform the same in off camber situations to the left and to the right.

Originally Posted by nappahdog

1. I like the idea of putting the weight in front of the axle so it can still be effective on the front tires on steep verticals instead of transferring to the rears. Not sure if it makes a difference, but it makes sense in my head.

forward and low is the way to go.


2. Are wheel weights ever used to balance the rig? I'm running my battery on the front axle so to balance the axle I added more weight to the drivers side than the passenger side. (apx 2.5 oz more on the driver side)

I wouldn't worry about it...the motors offset that weight enough im sure

Originally Posted by bquin

I agree with nappahdog.....weight distribution looks fine. Super looks good Sean.....keep up the good work

Thanks for the input guys. I'll add more weight to the drivers side so the total weight added down low is closer to the same.

I have some major changes coming and will do it afterwards so I can compare weight change.

[Crawl in Az]

Picked up a CDW Chassis from BQuin for a nice price and wanted to get something that will meet comp requirements. I've been told this chassis did quite well, so I'm excited to see how it turns out.



After a quick search I found this:

2011 CDW Super Bully

Here is what i have so far:



In order to keep the WB at 18" and keep the original links I moved the Lower link mount forward one hole and will have to mount the link outside the chassis. The upper links are just temporary that I had laying around. If i need more triangulation I can bend some different links and mount them outside the chassis. I think I will run Traxxas 3.5's up front and possibly in the rear. In the pics I have an Axial 4" shock plus bent rod ends making them a shy too long but mounted to the axle instead of the link. Is there a major drawback to mounting to the link? I've noticed the trend is mounting to the axle now.




And Just for fun I may rock my Original Mad Torque narrowed body until I get something more suitable. (Needs a little trimming)

[Tgreer]

Great build! So are you still rockin the mt tubes and using the plastic chub that's molded to it? If so, I'm suprised it hasn't broken more than your one post earlier.

[Crawl in Az]

Thanks! Yeah, so far I've only broken the inner C I posted. I'm kind of surprised too! Not sure if it's luck, or I'm not pushing it hard enough yet. I've also had pretty good luck with the stock small 3rd in the front, which makes me lean towards I haven't pushed it hard enough. Now with the dual ESCs though I'm practicing front digs and rear burns a lot to learn how the car reacts, which I think puts a fair amount of stress on the drivetrain. Time will tell, I'll definetly update if they ever break and I will go to the aluminum inner C like the rear if needed.

[nappahdog]

whered ya go? I was enjoying all of the mods, hope to see ya next season