Bruiser RN36 Build Thread

[jaw8850]

Step 13 & 14 #damper assembly


Shock parts out and organized



Damper piston installed on shock shaft with an e-clip on each side

O-rings installed on the brass "free piston". This was a chore getting the o-rings onto the piston without them shooting across the room like a rocket!!

and Rubber shock boots cut to length per manual



Piston installed in shock body, with rubber boot and a flange nut installed upside down on end of shock shaft. The small screws are used to bleed the shock, you fill the shock up to a line with oil, move the shock shaft up and down slowly several times to get the air out, then you slide in the oil seal, push it down with small screw, soak up any oil that comes through with a piece of tissue paper, install the screw in the threaded hole of the oil seal, then place spring on top of screw and thread on the cylinder cap. Shocks feel nice and smooth, and THEY DON'T LEAK!!!!!!!!!!!!

[jaw8850]

See above for step 15 - installing bearings in hubs - since I used the RC4WD hubs, I did this after step 9 to verify the RC4WD hubs would work the way I wanted them to, before I installed axles. Just in case I had to tear the axle housing apart to put the stock shafts in!!!!!

Step # 16 - Rear shock installation



Simply slide the shock shaft through the upper shock mount, grease a 3x6.5mm spacer, install the spacer in the shock cap, then add loctite to bolt and install it through spacer, add a washer, and thread it into shock mount with none locking nut installed in shock mount!
Then flip it over, add a non greased spacer over shock shaft, place some loctite on shock shaft threads (I used an old paint brush for this to keep things neat), and tighten up another flange nut

[jaw8850]

Step 17 - Front shock installation - also Skid plate and drag link instalation



I started this step building the drag link, the exact same way I built the steering arm



I then installed the front shocks in the exact same manner as the rear shocks.



Next I placed loctite on the inner u-bolt's where the skid plate would mount. If you pay attention you'll see this is where my screw up is. The instructions in step 10 have you placing flange nuts on the outside of the u-bolts, and regular 3mm nuts on the inside of the u-bolts on the front axle. I missed it, and didn't figure it out until after I put skid plate on and couldn't get the nuts that hold it down to engage, the non flange nuts are half the height of the flange nuts. So I carefully removed 1 of the 4 flange nuts at a time and replaced them with a regular nut. Then I re-loctited the threads, placed the skid plate on and THEN the flange nuts - and boom - LIKE IT WAS DESIGNED THAT WAY - Yes I know it was, and yes I know I'm an idiot - see my post signature for verification on that.

[jaw8850]

Ok so after 3 build sessions - I'm at 7.5 hours of set up/ build time. I am going very slow and methodically on this since I want it to be as close to perfect as possible and I'm in no rush to finish it.
I won't be working on it today since for some crazy reason the 3.5 hours of sleep I got last night weren't enough and I'm a little cloudy. Well that and the next step starts the TRANSMISSION - And we'll just say it's a little complex, and looks to be time consuming....maybe!!!!

Here is a picture of the overall chassis together - oh and It weighs 2 pounds 4.3 oz as it sits (it feels heavier)




Until Tomorrow - or Monday when I'm finally off and the wife will be home to help with the little ones, Time will tell!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[jaw8850]

So here we go - Transmission time!!!!!!!!!! And the engineering on this thing is pure brilliance, and the instructions are just as good, unless you are not smart enough to fully pay attention (IE: ME!!!!, only had to tear it apart and rebuild it TWICE!!!!!!!!!!!!


***NOTE*** Kit came with 2 plastic parts bags of gears/plastic transmission parts such as shift fork inserts (3 extra sets). This is great because everything else is metal so any items that MIGHT wear, you already have a replacement. (not that it would be a quick and simple repair)

Step #18 - Transmission case end cover







This step is straight forward - install nut backwards on 3x30mm screw and install it to where 21mm of shank is sticking out from nut (this is where the shifter adjustment pieces clip onto later on and you can adjust to the exact depth later if needed without any issue at all)

Once that was done, installed bearings in idler, the counter shaft in bearings then installed it into motor plate with 3x15 screw, lock washer, loctite, and a flange nut on the outside. Then installed bearings on the transfer shaft (front driveshaft output), grease gear and install in motor plate, place dowel pins in trans case to assist in keeping everything aligned and install 2 3x14mm hex bolts with loctite. Then you take 2 - 3x22mm phillips bolts, loctite ends, slide on flanged tupe and 3x3 spacer and thread those in (these are what slides into rubber bushings in crossmember to mount transmission to the chassis.

[jaw8850]

Step #14 Main shaft



Parts laid out for 1st part of this step (3 parts total)



Parts from part 1 installed and 2 5 x 0.5mm shims installed on shaft for part 2.

Part 1 you install 2x7mm pin in shaft, a long shift hub on shaft and over pin, coat shift hub in grease, then grease inside and outside of shift ring and slide it over, then a bearing, one of the 1st-2nd dog gears, another bearing, the 27 tooth gear, and a final bearing. (there are a TON of bearings inside this transmission, thank the lord they are included!!!)



part 2 complete - sliding on a bearing, 30 tooth gear, bearing, the 2nd 1st-2nd dog gear, another bearing and the 2nd shift ring onto same shaft



Part 3

install a 2x7mm pin, slide on short shift hub, another bearing, the 22t gear, yet another bearing, and an e clip and the main shaft is complete!!!!!!!!!!

[jaw8850]

Step #20 - my 1st nemesis



part 1 - slide the shift forks over the shift rings (pay attention unlike me - to the push in black plastic inserts in the shift forks so you can avoid pulling the assembly back out of the case to install them..thank goodness I figured it out before I moved to the next step!!!!)




Grease the shaft, slide it through the shift releaser (pay attention to the direction - I actually did this correctly) Once in place an e clip on the shaft between the shift forks, then align dimples in rod with dimples in shift forks and insert steel balls in, then rotate the shift releaser over the balls to lock them in place.



Then install bearing on rear output end of shaft and slide output shaft through large hole, shift shaft through small hole, while aligning shift releaser in rectangular groove in the case

[jaw8850]

Step # 21 - Sub Shaft - my 2nd nemesis!!!!!!!



slide 14 tooth gear on one end of shaft, place pin through gear, through shaft, then place black o-ring around it to hold pin in. Then from other end slide 17 tooth gear onto shaft, slide pin through it and o-ring same as other gear. Then slide o ring onto shaft 1st (due to direction of gear) slide 21 tooth gear onto shaft, pin and o-ring as before



Once done install the bearings on each end. PAY ATTENTION !!!!!!!!!!!! DON'T BE ME AND INSTALL 2 OF THE SAME BEARINGS TO ONLY LATER REALIZE YOU HAVE 1 EXTRA LARGE BEARING AND MISSING 1 SMALLER BEARING, THEN HAVE TO TEAR TRANSMISSION BACK APART, PULL OUT THIS SHAFT AND SWAP BEARINGS!!!!!!!!!!! - See I told you I'm about as bright as a solar powered flash light in a cave, at the bottom of the ocean, at midnight, with a new moon!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Shaft installed (smaller bearing is one you can see - larger bearing is on side of shaft that goes into the rear part of the transmission case)

Simply install 2 more dowels, slide front half of case on and tighted down 3 - 3x14mm bolts with loctite

[jaw8850]

Step #22 Planetary gear - extra hand please!!!!!!!!



Parts laid out




Bearings installed in planetary gears - pay attention to gap - slide the bearings into gear, 1 side sits flush with gear, other side is recessed. The recessed side goes out on the side of the metal planetary holder
"B" the flat side goes against plastic planetary holder "A" (the gear side).

The spacers slide through bearings, then special screws go through metal ring through shafts and into planetary ring A


MAKE SURE YOU TIGHTEN THEM IN THE PATTERN IN THE INSTRUCTIONS - THE SAME PATTERN AS TIGHTENING A 6 LUG WHEEL....Once done everything spun smooth with zero resistance!!!




Once finished I got out the rest of the parts to install

Slide bearing onto shaft - then Planetary dog ring, another bearing, a 5x5.2mm spacer (it's brass looking) then planetary gear assembly, then last bearing (READ THIS IS WHERE I REALIZED I SCREWED UP AND HAD TO BACK TRACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Then a 5x0.5mm spacer

[jaw8850]

Step #23 Spur gear



Install outer gear over the planetary unit

Then install large bearing onto 70 tooth spur gear, install small bearing in inner gear slide gear on shaft into planetary gear, then another bearing in outside of spur gear and an e clip




Then the last bearing on outter shaft, slide on the spur gear cover/motor plate, and screw in 4 3x25mm screws with loctite

Also apply a little grease to rubber inspection plugs, and insert them into the case with the 1st groove. (you'll have 1 grove and a pointed piece sticking out of transmission)

[jaw8850]

Step #24 - attaching motor and Step #02 Propeller joint (aka drive shaft install)





install pinion gear to motor shaft, and motor plate to end of motor. Measure from motor plate to outer edge of pinion to get 14.5mm spacing (you can see pinion once installed so you don't have to do this but saves you time)


install motor with 2 3x6mm screws with washers and loctite, making sure pinion mesh is good. This truck surprised me, all my other 80s Tamiya trucks have non adjustable motor mounts so you are stuck with stock pinion size unless you buy an aftermarket mount. This truck has adjust ability built in!!!!!!!!!!



install pinion gear cover with 2 3x10mm screws and loctite.

install e clip onto inner groove in shft shaft, slide on shift ball stay, then another e clip on the outside. Then thread in the 3x8mm grub screw with loctite, and thread on 5mm ball stud nut. Once this is done you can install the plastic shift shaft retainer (used later to adjust shift servo)

Then slide on drive shafts and install 5x5mm grub screws with loctite, tightening them down onto the flat part of the output shafts, and place glue on drive shaft e clips (pre installed by Tamiya)

[jaw8850]

Step #26 - Transmission installation!




Install drive shafts onto pinion gears tightening the 5x5mm grub screws with loctite onto the flat part of the shaft, slide the 2 motor mounts (greased) into rubber bushings in center cross member, then 2 3x6mm screws with loctite into front mounts

[jaw8850]

Well that is as far as I've gotten so far after 2.5 more hours of work, so I'm at 10 hours right now!!! Next up is electronics set up and adjusting, then painting (which will take A LONG TIME to do right and as detailed as I want it) I weighed truck and as of right now it's at 3 pounds 10 ounces.




Well maybe tomorrow or Monday I'll start on the electronics and see where I get!!!! Maybe running and driving without a body by Tuesday - I can hope and dream can't I????

[jaw8850]

Step # 27 - Checking R/C Equipment



I laid everything out, then plugged ESC and servo's into receiver, as well as an extra motor - verified everything was working then went through the long process of figuring out the 3 position switch on my Sanwa M12 radio. I used the dial knob in front of the steering wheel, set it to position, then 3 position, and made sure it would switch and stay at each one. Once I had it working I moved on to next step. ***NOTE*** This wasn't all the set up that needed to be done, later on I had to adjust the throw of position 1 and 3 (position 2 is in the middle and I had it set to 0) so the servo would push or pull the shift rod to the exact length - Tamiya includes plastic pieces to help hold shift rod exactly where it needs to be which made it very easy to adjust!


Step # 27 Extension cables - this step you just verify the cables are there and plug in to your esc and motor. My ESC (which you will notice gets replaced with different one later on) had the right plugs so on we go.

[jaw8850]

Step #29 - Mechanism Box






This step you simply install the rubber shield for the shift rod and steering rod to go through, a cover, and then install the 2 servo's. Pay attention to instructions as the servo mounts have offset holes that need to go towards the servos, as well as the one has round hole, and the other has elongated holes. The servo wires simply feed out the back to where the esc and receiver will be mounted.

[jaw8850]

Step #30 - Shift Rod


This step you build the servo savers, the shift rod, and the steering rod. My calipers didn't go past 205mm so I couldn't use those to measure steering rod, so I eyeballed it the best I could and then adjusted it on the vehicle later

[jaw8850]

Step #31 Mechanism box (bottom)


This step you install the shift rod, steering rods through rubber panel and tighten servo savers onto servos. You then install the cover for it with 4 screws

[jaw8850]

Step #32 Attaching R/C mechanism units



Here you can see the ESC from earlier installed in my Monster Beetle. Since the Monster Beetle had the Tamiya TBLE-02S ESC in it with the on/off switch that had large plastic switch and threaded holes to mount it, I decided to robb that esc and put it in the bruiser, since the tiny switch on the Hobbywing esc wouldn't attach to lid, and even double sided taping it on the switch was so tiny you'd never get it on and off without a fight due to the size of the rubber cover. The Monster Beetle is easy enough to reach up in and switch the switch attached to this esc so no harm no foul, and Monster Beetle got a nice test session from my 14 year old to make sure it still worked correctly.



Here you see the Tamiya ESC installed. Double sided tape on esc to the tray, then hooked up motor extension wires, and battery extension wires. I double sided taped the receiver next to it, plugged in both servos, the ESC, and the neat little push button switch that I'll use to control my LED lights, I ran all wires back through and zip tied them together. Picture above with servo's is after this step and all wires run


****Note**** For this ESC the orange wire does not get used with this motor. It can run brushless or brushed, and since I'm using stock motor I didn't need orange wire - also make sure you calibrate the ESC at this step or you'll be pulling the cover back off and doing it later!!!!!



Next you run the antenna wire through lid, screw the on/off switch onto underside of lid with on being towards drivers side of the truck, and then covering it with the rubber switch cover. Lid clips on in the back, hinges down and is held shut with 1 screw

[jaw8850]

Step #33 Attaching Mechanism box



This step is a bit tricky, you have to place 4 black orings down 2 on center cross member (shown in picture), and 2 on rear cross member, then you have to feed the box under the shift arms yet over the rear cross member, then set the back end down on rear cross member, then you attach it with 4 screws from the bottom.

**TOP TIP** I placed a small amount of loctite on area o-rings would sit and laid the o-rings down and let them sit a few minutes. This held them in place enough to keep them from sliding out when I flipped it over to run bolts in

[jaw8850]

Step #34 the shift rod!!!!!

This step - 1st have radio on, battery hooked up and turn receiver on. I started with radio dial in position 2 (not in and not out). This is 2nd Gear which is 2wd low. This is how rod was sitting with the black shift rod braces (g2 and g4). Once on I made sure ball stud end was perfectly aligned over ball stud, luckily using the calipers and the manual it was dead on 1st try.

Next I pulled shifter out all the way towards rear of the vehicle (used my hand, and slight throttle to have gear box spinning and to verify it was completely in gear. (this is 1st gear which is 4wd low). I then turned my dial to position 3 which drew servo back. I had it set at 100% range, I adjusted this down until rod end was directly over the ball stud which ended up being 85%.

Next I pushed the shifter all the way into the transmission same way as above. (this is 3rd gear - 2wd High). I then switched dial to position 1 - and adjusted it to 85% and it was perfect!.

Note in step 36 there are instructions for how to lock out each gear using the black g2 or g4 pieces. I used this step to verify transmission was in each gear correctly while doing the above step.

Here is a video of the truck running through all the gears.