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Old 12-26-2017, 04:42 PM   #1
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Default Bruiser RN36 Build Thread

Finally after waiting since the original release of the Bruiser, I was able to afford one.

So over the next few weeks I'll be building it up with slight upgrades as I go along (Hot Racing Steering, all stainless hardware, RC4WD axles/12mm hexes, RC4WD aluminum shock mounts (axle side), Gearhead 1.9 Vegas Beadlock wheels with RC4WD IROK tires, and RC4WD light kit, and RC4WD driver figure).

I'm using basic electronics - a Hobbywing 80amp Crawler ESC, stock motor, 2 - Perfex metal gear servos from a Kyosho 8th scale buggy - blasphemy I know but I had them and they are both brand new and make 124.98 oz-in (9kg-cm) and have a speed of 0.15 @6.0V. Stock motor, and a Sanwa receiver to use my M12 radio (I'll be using the AUX channel with 3 position switch for gear changes).

I don't plan on running this much especially with the body on it, more of a shelf queen I can cruise around slowly if I get the notion) .

The body will be painted box art and I may order up a set of original decals from MCI Racing in Canada but haven't decided on that yet, I have to compare the differences in them


The rest of the build will be box stock(I will be saving all stock hardware and pieces so I can make it box stock if I ever get the desire)

Tonight I got started on the build and will be posting pictures of each step as I go along, with commentary of any issues I find, or tips I discover. .


Feel free to comment and let me know if there is anything specific you would like to see.

Thanks and happy building!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Last edited by jaw8850; 12-26-2017 at 05:00 PM.
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Old 12-26-2017, 04:43 PM   #2
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Default Re: Bruiser RN36 Build Thread



Step 1 was to lay out everything and separate and measure all the stainless hardware to make the build go smoother. With a 4 year old and 1 year old running around, not much will be smooth so I may as well save as many headaches as I can up front!! (until the wife kills me for using her dining room table for the next few days/weeks/months)
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Old 12-26-2017, 04:46 PM   #3
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Step 1 complete - loosened all the pre-installed screws, and installed stainless screws where directed with blue gel loctite (didn't use loctite that came in the kit since I have a large bottle of anaerobic gel loctite from my full size cars). After new screws were loosely installed I removed the factory screws and replaced them with stainless hex bolts.

**Note I got ahead of myself installing screws and actually installed 4 screws I would have to remove - 2 for the rear shock mounts, and 2 for the rear bumper supports**


close up of the screws I used

Last edited by jaw8850; 12-26-2017 at 04:50 PM.
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Old 12-26-2017, 04:48 PM   #4
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About an hour in (including set up) I removed parts from Parts bag A - and separated out the metal parts I would be using in steps 2-4. Including the Hot Racing Aluminum bellcrank steering I'm using to replace the stamped steel and plastic stock unit.
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Old 12-26-2017, 04:49 PM   #5
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Here I have installed the all studs into the bellcrank
**Note - install the ball stud on the inner hole on the side with 2 holes**
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Old 12-26-2017, 04:52 PM   #6
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Step 2 complete - Front and rear upright shock mounts installed with rubber shock bushings, rubber bushings installed in center cross member, and rear bumper extensions installed, as well as more bolts on top side of frame rails through the 2 rearmost crossmembers. About 2 hours total in so far.

Last edited by jaw8850; 12-26-2017 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 12-26-2017, 04:54 PM   #7
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1 picture for steps 3 and 4 since they cover installing front and rear spring hangers. That is all for tonight since I'm on a stretch of 03:00 - 15:00 shifts at work the next 7 days. Tomorrow will start with building the axles, which should be interesting since the RC4WD Hex conversion kit comes with new axles but no instructions, I'm sure it can't be so hard.....time will tell.
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Old 12-26-2017, 07:32 PM   #8
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Default Re: Bruiser RN36 Build Thread

The bruiser was the most satisfying build I've ever done...transmission is a work of art.

Enjoy your build!
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Old 12-27-2017, 01:36 PM   #9
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Default Re: Bruiser RN36 Build Thread

OK so I had some free time at work from 03:00 till 04:30 and was able to accomplish steps 5 through 9. Hopefully I won't have to re-build the axles with the stock axle shafts, as the RC4WD hexes have some play - however I noticed later on in step 15 the stock wheel hubs get bearings and spacers so hopefully they will fit in the hexes from RC4WD and eliminate all the slop - WE SHALL SEE!!!!.



Parts laid out for Step # 5 - pinion gear assembly


Step # 5 complete

this was very straight forward and easy to do, the bearing up against the gear captures the drive pin that goes through the shaft and everything went together perfectly
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Old 12-27-2017, 01:42 PM   #10
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Step #6 - Differential gear assembly (front and rear)

1st let me say - this kit was designed in the 80's and this is by far the smoothest diff I've ever put together, it just flat out works perfectly and there is no slop, or rougness in them at all, just smooth as butter!! SUPER IMPRESSED!!!!!!

Parts laid out to start


the 1st 3 - 8 tooth gears greased and installed as well as one of the 15 tooth gears (I use Protek Premier White Gear grease in my other RC's and it is very smooth and actually quiets the diff's in those, and I've never had a failer - so I chose it over the grease included from Tamiya)


All the internal gears greased and installed in the differentials


Step 6 complete!!!!!!!!!! It was slightly fiddly to put the 2 halves together, getting all the 8 tooth gear pins to line up into their respective holes, but no worse than any other gear diff I've ever built. Once halves were together and throughout the tightening sequence (3 bolts, slowly tightened in a circle pattern) I put an axle in each side and spun it to make sure no gears where going to bind or out of alignment, and everything worked absolutely smooth and perfect!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-27-2017, 01:47 PM   #11
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Default Re: Bruiser RN36 Build Thread

Step # 7 - Rear axle housing assembly


Stock axles on top, RC4WD hex conversion rear axles, front wheel axle's, and hexes on bottom (These will eliminate the factory wheel hubs and allow me to run the 12mm hex beadlocks, however can be swapped out for stock at any time just needs a little work)



Rear axles laid out with parts in order of assembly



Rear axles completely assembled



Rear axle housing with axles, differential, and pinion gears installed - everything dropped into place with zero effort - machining tolerances on this kit are outstanding!!!! (stuff like this makes the price tag understandable - there was a TON of engineering put into this kit)



Step # 7 complete!!!!!!!!! Just like when building differentials, I routinely spun the axles during tightening of axle housing to verify nothing was binding up!
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Old 12-27-2017, 01:49 PM   #12
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Default Re: Bruiser RN36 Build Thread

Step # 8 - Front axle housing



Stock Tamiya front axle shafts, with parts laid out in order of assembly



Axles, differential, and pinion gear installed in axle housing - Once again using Protek Premium White Gear Grease



Step #8 complete!!!!!!! - As you'll notice there is no plug in the axle housing at this stage - unlike rear axle this plug is installed in the next step
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Old 12-27-2017, 01:51 PM   #13
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Default Re: Bruiser RN36 Build Thread

I'm jealous. I've always wanted a Bruiser, but I don't think I'd use it so I always buy something else instead. Nice build thread and I'll be watching.
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Old 12-27-2017, 01:53 PM   #14
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Default Re: Bruiser RN36 Build Thread

Step #9 - Knuckle arm assembly

This step I didn't take pictures as it started to pick up at work and this was last step I planned on doing there.
It's straight forward assembly - you install wheel axle shaft with bearing on it through knuckle, add ball stud and washer to bottom side of steering knuckle arm then slide over the axle housing and align it with threaded holes. Next there are 4 flanged tubes that go into the knuckle arm - I greased these with mobile 1 synthetic marine grade grease then installed the bolts through those into the housing using blue loctite. also you install the steering arm with a ball stud and nut onto the back of the drivers side steering knuckle.

* I also filled the open end of the front axle housing where axle shaft sticks out with Mobile 1 synthetic Marine grease so the axle shaft and front wheel axle would have plenty of lube and protection*






So that was it through step 9 - I'm at about 5 hours in - including approximately 1 hour of set up and organizing time pre-build to make everything go smoother.

Last edited by jaw8850; 12-27-2017 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 12-27-2017, 01:55 PM   #15
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Default Re: Bruiser RN36 Build Thread

Thanks, I've always wanted one too - my buddy and I used to talk about wanting one forever!!! Luckily I got a bonus at work, and my mother offered me cash for Christmas, and I was on Amain and there it was in stock - so I pulled the trigger - I had the electronics and I MIGHT drive it around my living room - it will NEVER get dirty that's for sure, but I tell you one thing....I love building RC's and this by far has been the best build EVER...and I'm barely even started. It's truly a work of art


Quote:
Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper View Post
I'm jealous. I've always wanted a Bruiser, but I don't think I'd use it so I always buy something else instead. Nice build thread and I'll be watching.
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Old 12-27-2017, 02:34 PM   #16
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Default Re: Bruiser RN36 Build Thread

*******Problem solved - Opened bag B to begin, and removed bearings for Step 15 - they fit in the Hex hubs without the adapter used on the stock Tamiya hubs. Install bearing on each side of outer rear axle housing over the shaft, then install pin, align slot in RC4WD hex hub and slide it over shaft, pin and bearing, then tighten grub screw and presto - NO SLOP at all!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I knew this would fix the problem, just didn't know if the bearings would be the same OD as the ID of the hex hub, thank goodness they were!!!



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Old 12-28-2017, 01:27 PM   #17
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Default Re: Bruiser RN36 Build Thread

Well let's say yesterday evening's building adventure didn't start off as smooth as I would like.

Let's start with the fact I'll be using the plastic shock mounts instead of the RC4WD aluminum shock mounts. They got me, I purchased a set of no longer produced RC4WD shock mounts on eBay listed as brand new never used / open package. They arrived, I saw they were shiny and left feedback(2 weeks ago). Well much to my dismay, when I took them out of the bag I noticed 2 of them looked bent....hmmmmm what could this be, oh maybe they are designed different front and rear (we can all hope right????). Well I pulled out the plastic stock mounts and they are as flat as a 10 year old Dutch boy. So I took the BB23 Axle Mount that sits on the flat part of the shock mount and placed it on the bent ones and whoa there was a ton of daylight. So I placed it on the non bent ones and yep - still daylight. They weren't machined to the correct tolerances and I'm guessing the person who had them and never "used" them, tightened up the ubolts on 2 of them and watched them bend and said nope and sold them, and an idiot (read - ME) bought them and left positive feedback before realizing they were la-gabage (French for JUNK). The listing description even said - 2 are one direction and the other 2 are upside down to show you both sides...hmmmm, funny the 2 bent ones are upside down where you can't see the bend line on the other side!!!!!! Totally accidental I'm sure. Oh well, $20 gone, but time to press on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



You can see the daylight between the shock mount and the axle mount in this picture.

Last edited by jaw8850; 12-28-2017 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 12-28-2017, 01:40 PM   #18
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Step #10 - Leaf Springs - aka - let the fun begin, and hope you have 4 arms, 6 hands, a trained dyslexic duck, and a support goat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


To start I took out all the parts and spread them out neatly



Leaf Springs assembled

****TOP TIP**** I'm loving my CowRC Pit Mat more than I can say right now. It's magnetic, so I just laid the springs in order on their sides letting the mat hold them in place, slid in the screw and tightened them up. NOTE - You will need to use the supplied Tamiya wrench for the 2mm lock nut on the leaf spring. I have 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 5.5mm nut drivers and lets say no go. The nuts are smaller than 5mm and larger than 4mm and I've never seen a 4.5mm nut driver and wouldn't ever buy one just for these 4 nuts, the tool worked just fine.



The manual says to apply synthetic rubber cement to shock mounts, axle mounts, and axle holders. I have searched the inter webs high and low, and on many forums for "synthetic rubber cement" to no avail. So I used good ole Elmer's rubber cement, let it set up than began assembly. This is where multiple arms, hands, feet, a jar of pickles, and anything else you may need would come in handy. Trying to hold 7 parts together with 1 hand and tighten the 4 nuts with the other is we'll say "an adventure" Yeah that's it, it was an adventure. Well it all worked out and I didn't throw a single tool through any windows, so I'm claiming VICTORY!!!!!!!!!!!


The manual side bar shows a 6mm gap between the bulge in the housing and the axle holder on the rear axle, so I just used my calipers to make sure I was right there, and was very thankful later when springs just slid right into their shackles!!!!!!!


Front axle - 7mm gap, same technique, same result!! I give credit to the 7 P's - Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance!!



The manual also advises to have a 0 degree angle on rear axle, and a 5 degree angle on front axle which I eyeballed the best I could, since my angle finder for the full size racecar really wouldn't fit on the pinion shaft of these axles. It also advises to tighten all axle nuts equally and evenly - I painstakingly did this and everything worked out -except 1 stupid mistake which I'll discuss later that caused a little re-work on my part





Both axles completed!! YES THAT WAS JUST STEP 10!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-28-2017, 01:43 PM   #19
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Default Re: Bruiser RN36 Build Thread

Step #11 - installing rear axle (after step 10 this was comically easy)




this step, You just slide the metal spacer in the leaf springs, align them up in the shackles, and install bolts and nuts. Then the torque arms get an o-ring under them, a spacer through them and the o-ring and a bolt on each side. Quick and easy!
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Old 12-28-2017, 01:51 PM   #20
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Step #12 - Front axle housing installation



1st I started off by making the steering arm. I installed both ball cups onto each side evenly, then used my calipers to measure the gap between them to make them exactly as manual says. **Top Tip** - The TLR shock shaft pliers are AWESOME for making these, they grab the shaft and hold it tight without putting any marks on them!!!!!!! There are a ton of companies that make similar shock shaft pliers and they all work just as good. If you are serious about RC at all and build your own cars - GET A PAIR - especially if you build your own shocks!!!!!!!!!!!!





Step 12 complete.
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