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Thread: home brew motor mounts

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Old 03-06-2007, 12:47 PM   #21
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I see it now, I thought you were referring to lathe/axiom motors, where there are 4 holes on each motor, and you wanted to mount it with two holes right next to each other.
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Old 03-06-2007, 12:49 PM   #22
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the motor in the pic has 4 holes also.
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Old 03-06-2007, 12:58 PM   #23
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You wire in parrallell for a lot of reasons. One being that in series you have half the wheel speed and 55t's are borderline at best IMO. Also like previously stated the clod stall will be so bad that your truck will be practicaly usseless. The only time series is practical is if both motors are mechanicaly conected to the same spur gear so they are forced to use equal amperage and speed. Also it can make 2 27 turns act like a 55 turn speed wise.
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Old 03-06-2007, 01:20 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcktpwrd
here is a link to pics of this mod:
http://www.craftlab.net/epage/etech2pinion.htm
thats what i was originaly planning on doing ,slotting the top hole so that it essentialy makes the gearbox into an adjustable motor mount ,kind of like what you find on the old rc 10's and such.im now thinking that ill cover the other side of the gear box with a piece of aluminum so that it gets a nice solid bite on the plastic,no cracking or moving around
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Old 03-06-2007, 01:22 PM   #25
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if your going to go ahead and do it that way, i would suggest using a piece of plexyglass so that you can see the gear mesh. with a solid alluminum piece, you would not be able to make sure the mesh is right, you need something see-through.
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Old 03-06-2007, 01:37 PM   #26
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as for the wiring i just followed the instructions that came with my novak super duty xr.i never used any of the crap that came with my super clod buster ,spent almost as much on the speed control as i did on the clod to drive it once and realize how incapable it was ,seems kind of funny to me now
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Old 03-06-2007, 01:40 PM   #27
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this mod does work real good. emutt did it to clodenstein. and another thing is that you guys cant get rid of



ME........

for i am clodstall.lol
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Old 03-17-2007, 09:05 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwistedMetal
what you do is, take the brass sleeves out. then when you bolt the motor in with 8t pinion use the two holes on the same side of the motor. Put the larger part of the motor towards the diff. do not use the holes that are straight across from each other. you will have to dremel just a little out the the hole so that the hump where the bushing goes into the axle will clear. if you need pics i can take some.
mesh is realy tight with 9 tooth pinions have to open up the holes a little to get enough play to make it work but it eventualy does
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Old 03-17-2007, 09:16 AM   #29
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So, back to wiring. I have my ESC lead wires and wires for the rear motor soldered together on one side of the front motor, then the wires run back to the rear motor.

Is this series or parallel?

Now my head hurts!!
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:54 AM   #30
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If you ran one wire from ESC to fr motor, one from there to rr motor, then back to the ESC, that would be series... If the positive and negative wires go from the ESC to both motors, even going from ESC, to motor, to motor, that's parallel...

As long as 2 wires come from one of the motors.. Parallel...

If one wire goes to one motor then back from the other... Series...
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Old 03-17-2007, 11:05 AM   #31
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DVO, thanks
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Old 03-17-2007, 11:13 AM   #32
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this is how the wiring should look
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Old 03-17-2007, 11:53 AM   #33
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No probs, dude...

83 Chevy did what I wanted to... Posted a pic... That's parallel in one of the ways I tried to describe...
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