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11-06-2007, 03:47 PM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: detroit
Posts: 383
| Building first super and some FAQ's
Ok, I see the way that Junfac makes a lower mount and see in the pics from JPCustoms how they mount the lower links to the axle but are there any other options? The Junfac mounts look cool but bulky and the other way looks to weaken the axle tube so post up some pics or give me some info on how to do it different. I also would like to know about 40 sieres Moab's. Should we try to trim the foams the same way as a 2.2.? Should we try to add wieght to them like on a 2.2? post up some of the things you guy's have done and let us know what everybody's doing! Lastly one for the elestronics side but I'm going to post it here as well. If a guy wanted to go brushless with a Clodbuster based rig would he have to run two ESC's or could he us two sensorless motors and one ESC? Is a brushless motor two much to ask of the Clod stuff? I know I will eventuly go to the meatal gears and thunder tech axels but with the size of the Moab's is that still a recipe for disaster? This is going to be a winter project so I have some time to make up our minds on which way to attack this but would like to get some input from those of you that have done these things so I'm not wasting time, energy and most of all MONEY! |
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11-06-2007, 04:35 PM | #2 | |
I joined the Band! Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Paso Robles
Posts: 452
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I hope we get some of the big guns on this board to post up some of the answers. Thanks in advance guys for all your help. | |
11-06-2007, 11:15 PM | #3 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Fallbrook
Posts: 176
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rad, i was searching yesterday for a "super class" faq didnt find much, like over all standards and rules and such all in 1 place.
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11-06-2007, 11:24 PM | #4 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Columbia TN
Posts: 6,154
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There is no problem with mounting the lower links to the upper axle c. 99% of 4 linked comp rigs mount there lowers there. I am very rough on my truck and before I had all aluminum tubes and knuckles I broke the lower c all the time. The 40 series moabs suck in my opinion. Moab xl's are the best bet for a super truck. Even better if you mount them to an xtm rim. That is the only tire rim combo I will run on my comp truck. As for foams I barly have any left in my tires, but don't even think about it on a 40 series rim, the xl has a very thin carcass and it will flop around with to soft of a foam, thats why I run the larger rims. Brushless is a preferance. They handle compleatly different from a brushed setup. For a clod you will need 2 esc's to run brushless. I run 2 mamba maxs with handwound 35t lathe motors and a 3 cell lipo with a 6 tooth pinion. I also run my esc's seperate from each other all the time. I have more torque than I need and more wheelspeed than 95% of other compeditors. Brushless in ok if thats what you want but its hardly nessicary and don't even think about it unless you have full metal axles. A high voltage lathe motor will destroy a stock clod axle in a heartbeat. Thats my 2 cents, take it for what its worth. |
11-07-2007, 07:14 AM | #5 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: detroit
Posts: 383
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I do have the XL's I guess i forgot that part. I got them from the "For Sale" section here. I will be using them with Axial 8 spoke beadlocks. I am still wondering about the foams though? Should they be cut or not and how? Should I add weight to them like I do on my AX10 or not? It might seem like a dumb noob question but it's important to me to do things right the first time and then decide if I like them that way. The stock foams are way stiff compared to those is 2.2 tires I have run and although there is a gap between the foam and the tire carcase it still seams to be to stiff of a combo. On the other hand they are not very tall of a foam and a star cut seems to be taking to much foam away? I'm thinking about shaving the edges down to a bevel and cutting 2 or 3 trenches in the top of the width maybe about 1/2 of its thickness and then place the airsoft BB's in there for supporting the tire? When I weigh these on the scale they come out to about 5 oz per tire/rim combo and if I were to add lead weight to them I could in theory get them over 2 lbs each but that would make a rig somewhere in the area of 10-12 lbs total and that sounds to me to be very heavy. But you guys know more about these things then I do so what do you think? Am I going to far with the foams and lead weight or am I on the right track?
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11-07-2007, 07:30 AM | #6 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: HONDURAS...ROCK HEAVEN
Posts: 5,076
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I have xl on 2 of my clods and i have done the star pattern cut on both of them, i have also added 5 oz of lead weights to ea front wheel and 3oz on ea rear, i am running mamba 25 with JRH outrunners and 9 and 8 tooth pinions, with this setup i can take obstacles head on very well, the tires conform to the rocks, but they do suffer on sidehilling, as the rubber on the sidewall tends to flex from the weight.
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11-07-2007, 08:47 AM | #7 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: detroit
Posts: 383
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Thanks cartronicsh I might give that a try but still looking for more input so lets keep this thread hot for a while if can. |
11-07-2007, 09:36 AM | #8 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Columbia TN
Posts: 6,154
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The flexing of the tires can be controled by using the xtm rims. As for truck weight my super weighs around 11.5 lbs. I also run no weight in the rear but I have 2 14 oz steel weights on the front knuckles. On a super truck I would recomend under knuckle batteries for your weight. This is by far the best mod you can do for preformance. See my weights and oversize rims, notice how soft the tires look. I used to run underknuckle batteries but after I went to lipos, I cut out these steel weights to make up for the lost weight.
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11-07-2007, 09:42 AM | #9 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Columbia TN
Posts: 6,154
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If you want to see a bunch of trial and error, then follow the 1 year tunning process of my rig. Started new tuber build Reworking the Super |
11-07-2007, 10:08 AM | #10 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: HONDURAS...ROCK HEAVEN
Posts: 5,076
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Kamikaze, forgive my noobness, how does the rim help the tire flexing?
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11-07-2007, 10:18 AM | #11 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Dirty South
Posts: 4,064
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I think what Jeff ( Kamikaze) is tring to say . Moab XLs sidewalls tend to roll under . the larger rims help with that . I have seen his rig transform in person . It flat out sucked the first time I seen it . he was running an old 7 cell pack in the chassis and Nylint tires . but he knew his rig and improved on it . now look he is the number 5 super driver . |
11-07-2007, 10:22 AM | #12 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: HONDURAS...ROCK HEAVEN
Posts: 5,076
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Xtm's are larger than my proline 40 beadlocks?
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11-07-2007, 10:31 AM | #13 |
PapaGriz Yo Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: In the garage building the wife a crawler
Posts: 13,137
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11-07-2007, 10:44 AM | #14 |
PapaGriz Yo Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: In the garage building the wife a crawler
Posts: 13,137
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I can't speak to the tires since I have not run 40 series tires in over a year. For electronics, I know that Joey (Rxcrawler) won the Nationals running two Quark 33 Procar ESC's and two Holmes Hobbies Crawlmaster motors on a 3 cell LiPo. Kamikaze already told you his setup. Either setup is going to be great, it's going to be your preference as to what you want. I do think you need metal diff gears to reliably run the brushless stuff. I run a Rooster Crawler ESC with 2 55T lathe motors in my Clod. It is not as competitive in the super class as these other guys but it is still possible to build good super class rig without going to a 6 channel radio. Here in CO hardly anyone runs independent throttle control on their supers but it's hard to compete with a 6ch rig if you don't have it. I have been running the same set of axle tubes with the lower links mounted to the axle C for almost 3 years and have not had any problems with it. It is the best way to do it. |
11-07-2007, 10:45 AM | #15 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: HONDURAS...ROCK HEAVEN
Posts: 5,076
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Thanks guys for the info, i am getting a set of xtm right now to try them out |
11-07-2007, 11:34 AM | #16 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Columbia TN
Posts: 6,154
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11-07-2007, 05:38 PM | #17 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: detroit
Posts: 383
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Here is another question for you.. I just bought the Integy 2.5 to 1 gear reduction boxes for clod axles and wonder how else has used them? It will give me gearing from 61 to 1 all the way down to 122 to 1 depending on the pinion. It sounded to good to pass up so I thought I would give them a shot. Now for the real problem.... should I run slow high tourqe motors or go to some faster motors around the 20 to 14 turn varity? I'm thinking about a couple of 45 turns and a final gear ratio between 75:1 to 97:1 using pinions 10 through 13.
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11-07-2007, 08:19 PM | #18 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Columbia TN
Posts: 6,154
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11-07-2007, 08:30 PM | #19 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Dirty South
Posts: 4,064
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Hellz yell ,I love gear units !!!!! 7:1 thunder techs for me though . at a real slow crawl just load 1 tire abit and snap . steal gears and CVDs are no match for them with 27 turn motors . |
11-07-2007, 08:31 PM | #20 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Columbia TN
Posts: 6,154
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Right Right!!
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