Order Placed - Bronco

[Measuredpath]

Hello folks,

I am a long time lurker and mainly an air/on-road guy with the occasional off road indulgence.

Since I just placed my order for a CR-01 Bronco. I've been looking at critical parts to upgrade to. I was hoping this forum would have a sticky with ESC/Motor setups and essential hop-ups. Instead one has to search and search and search.

Here's what I've concluded and need some guidance.

- Shock replacements are a must, but what's good? Also, does anyone just remove the spring and go back to the coil over setup (any benefits either way?)

- Steering sucks as I found out from my buddies Unimog. 4WS is my choice over BTA

- Servo beds, Centre Skid plate, bumper brackets, among some other bits will be ordered.

- Motor will be 21.5-35t depending on what I want out of it

- ESC and servos are sorted

However, what else should I be looking at?

Thanks,

Mo

[Percymon]

You're correct that there is no 'upgrades' sticky so it's down to reading a shed load if threads I'm afraid.

My conclusions ..

Upgrade the driveshafts to the hop up carbon steel items
Stock brushed silver can is too fast for crawling, ok for pretty flat trail runs but a 35T brushed motor (or higher) is needed for trails and crawling. I have a Tamiya CR tuned motor in one chassis and just put a 50t in another chassis (yet to compare them)

Shocks us up to individual - tamiya's hop up alloy ones are expensive for what they are. Gmade team zero are a bit cheaper and can be used as conventional shocks as coil overs or spring less with the cantilevers. Loads of other shocks will fit.

Stock steering rods are a bit thin, change up to the turn buckle set.

Anything else is up to the user - plenty of people run a stock cr-01 and are happy with it for light duties

I've put km racing alloy knuckles and c hubs on both mine - they seem strong and are pretty cheap.

[RichardinNZ]

Agreed about the motor and driveshafts. I fitted the Tamiya 35T CR motor from the start but trashed my driveshafts in about 30 minutes. Only just making other upgrades now. However if they'd been as cheap as they are now I would have fitted more from the start. I think it may be a case of getting them now while you can as a lot of aftermarket hop-up parts are going out of stock.

[Percymon]

Banzai Hobby are pretty good for prices, and their cheap SAL shipping option is typically 7-10 days to the UK. http://banzaihobby.com/radio-control...r-tamiya/cr-01

I wouldn't get too excited about skid plates - many of them aren't very good designs for sliding over rocks - the KMRacing item (and the STRC version) are particularly poor..



.. worse than the kit plastic item. In fact one member here sanded the kit plastic item smooth which is probably the best option for rock sliding. The Tamiya hop-up alloy skid is quite a good design but pricey.

Weighting the wheels is recommended - the kit plastic items are very light - i added 75g of 1:1 stick on wheel weights which fitted perfectly around the inside..



I also installed the alloy side frames - they are very strong, but are quite weighty and not really an area where you want the weight - the kit plastic items do flex a little but there's plenty more flex from the suspension.

[OSRC]

Welcome to the CR01 club. We're a small but hardy gang.

As the owner of 3, driveshafts are the only "must replace" - not sure what Tamiya was thinking on those as they are way too soft. The truck is a tank otherwise. Aside from the shafts, I've never broken a stock part. I've bent the steering linkages as they are somewhat thin, but bend them right back. To be expected when running weighted wheels and tires.

You can certainly change around the suspension for whatever your performance goals are, but it's not terrible out of the box. Just quirky.

Feel free to post questions here and in other build threads and we'll help get you on your way

[new2rocks]

Definite welcome. I just joined recently with an FJ40, so I don't have as much experience as some of the other guys here. I went with hop up beds/decks, hardened shafts, reinforced drive shafts, hardened tranny gears, and a few other bits and bobs. I'm running a HH Crawlmaster 16t, which is equivalent to a 35t, on 3s. I decided to go with the cantilever setup initially because it was different, and I'm glad I did. I love the way the axles contort to conform to uneven terrain, and I think it's just plain cool that it's so different. I ended up using slightly stiffer springs than the stock setup. Overall, I'm thrilled so far after 4 hours or so of runtime, and it's definitely a great change of pace from the typical Axial setups (of which I have a couple).

[Measuredpath]

Thanks for the warm welcome guys! A buddy of mine is grabbing me some wheel weights as soon as I get the kit (he's been the one bugging me all year to get one). I finally broke and I haven't told him I picked one up to go crawling with.

Anyways, some good feedback form you folks. Here is a more comprehensive list of parts I ordered.

-Futaba R204GF-E-S-FHSS
-2x Bluebird BMS-660DMG Plus 190oz/in waterproof
-2x aluminum servo arms
-KM Lower skid plate (ordered after I posted)
-KM Heatsink
-KM Servo beds x2
-KM Bumper Bracket
-Tamiya Carbon Steel Shafts
-Lighting kit
-Stock motor for now until I get something else
-Brushed ESC from one of my F104's
-Turnigy 5800 Nano-tech battery
-Axial Aluminum 72-103mm shocks

Need

-Maybe servo mounts
-Paint
-Maybe 1.9 wheels/tires Open to suggestions
-High Clearance arms
-Maybe KM knuckles, KM Hubs, KM Lock outs

I have some sheet metal kicking around and I might make my own skid plates. They are about 4-5mm thick if I recall correctly. I really appreciate everyones input and I eagerly look forward to building this in the next few weeks.

[new2rocks]

^^ That list looks good. The only thing I'd be concerned about is the servos. Under 200 oz-inch might be a bit weak on this rig given iits heft, height and wheels. I'm running Savox 1210s (277 oz-inch and waterproof). and I've even hit their limit once or twice. I'm running 2.2 Flat Irons, which I think look great on this rig and perform really well. Good luck!

[OSRC]

Good lord, I use Hitec 645MG's on all my builds. Slowly upgrading to Tactics as the RTR guys part them out. The bluebirds should be ok with those numbers.

Tires are very subjective, I've run so many combos on mine it'll make your head spin. Depends on the look you want, and the performance you expect out of them. The stock bronco tires aren't that bad honestly.

A good list, be sure to post up pics!

[new2rocks]

Originally Posted by OSRC

Good lord, I use Hitec 645MG's on all my builds. Slowly upgrading to Tactics as the RTR guys part them out. The bluebirds should be ok with those numbers. Tires are very subjective, I've run so many combos on mine it'll make your head spin. Depends on the look you want, and the performance you expect out of them. The stock bronco tires aren't that bad honestly. A good list, be sure to post up pics!

Lol. It is true that I have been known to push my rigs a bit. I definitely agree re the tires. :thumbsup:

[Measuredpath]

I can't wait to get my kit on tuesday. Shame I have to wait for all the hop ups in the weeks to follow as most came out of HK or Mainland China. I appreciate all the feedback and ask you keep it coming. Servo's I am not overly worried about as Bluebirds are cheap and I think will be just fine. I am not a massive scaler and will beat around at a slow and steady pace. I wish I didn't stumble upon 6 Lug Wagon 2.2 wheels as they look great and would fit the body perfectly.

Any thoughts on a good brushed motor? I was looking at the CR by tamiya to use with my brushed ESC. Any downsides to going brushless for crawlers as I know most guys seem to be running brushed. I am familiar with both in a inroad and fast paced off road setting and even in my 450 scale heli's, just not ofroading like this

[new2rocks]

I'm running the HH Crawlmaster 16t on 3s with the HH BRXL in mine and I absolutely love that combo. The crawling is wicked smooth, and it has some scoot if I want or need it. I run ROC 412 3100 KVs in several other rigs (3s in 2 of them, 2s in one). That's a neat setup also, but different. Low speed resolution is good, but not as smooth as the Crawlmaster. I've been able to compensate for that somewhat by adjusting from a linear to exponential throttle curve, which helps. On 3s, those rigs really scoot but need 32p gearing and can stress a drivetrain easily. I haven't been at this long enough to have a feel for the trade off between theoretically lower maintenance on the sensored brushless vs brushed. If you're not sure which way you want to go, the MMP is an excellent, versatile ESC that can handle either brushed or sensored brushless, and it's highly programmable.

[OSRC]

I run a 17.5 sensored brushless combo in one, and a 35t brushed in the other, both on 2S. Neither set up cost more than $60 and they both work great. The 17.5 actually has a ton of wheelspeed, might be looking at a 21.5 for the next rig.

[Measuredpath]

I might give my 17.5t a try out of my 2WD buggy. I suppose it depends on how quick I want it as I won't get up to much scaling off the bat.

Do I need to be concerned with the drivetrain at all? I already ordered the carbon steel drive shafts

[860Crawler]

The drive shafts are the only part of the driveline that will take a hit, under normal use so upgrade to steel will do well.

I did strip my rear axle once. I was constantly running, doing scale comps up in CT and GTGs all the time with like 11oz weight in front and 9 oz in back. This was like 2-3 years in of use. It took a good few years to really tweak my plastic drive shafts bad enough to not be used as well. I never force the vehicle once its stuck, I think that's why they lasted so long. And I chewed up a spur gear and pinion when my mesh was out of alignment.

So since I've bought it around 07-08 I have only lost the drive shafts, one axle shaft and a pinion/spur. Pretty tough drivetrain.

I did bend a steering rod once before I changed them to the thick Junfac ones.

Also I've never bought a waterproof servo for it. The Hitec servos seem to be watertight on their own. I replaced the servo once about 3 years ago with the same Hitec 645MG, not for water damage but after all that use for years it finally started clicking at full lock

[Measuredpath]

Good to hear about the drivetrain. I've been trying to make sure I do not go to crazy with the hop ups out there.

I just picked up the kit today and will do my best to wait for the aluminum bits in the mail for as long as I can. I still have some electronics to wait on as well.

2 brown bags have 2 Futaba receivers

[Measuredpath]

Inside shot since there doesn't seem to be many shots. The funny thing is this is my 2nd time opening a box as the 1st was my buddies.

[OSRC]

I can smell that new kit smell from here.

[Measuredpath]

That new kit smell is intoxicating for sure. I lasted about 2hrs before I started to take things out, and then this happened over 2 days. I am finalizing paint options for the Bronco before the weather starts to get colder. With hop ups en route I did not want to get to carried away since I'd have to disassemble parts all over again.

[Osteo]

Looking good nice job painting Ford can't wait to see it finished!

D