RCCrawler Forums

JohnRobHolmes · 07-13-2005, 09:12 PM

if its not floppy with a 3 link setup, i would just run that. it looks to have plenty of articulation.

if its too floppy im kinda at a loss. just make sure your ball ends arent hitting the brackets or chassis or being bent weird.

1beatjeep · 07-13-2005, 09:23 PM

bottom link are to far out at the axle .you have to move them in.i sent you pic of the links at the axle with new holes on the axle to mount the links to.if you need more pic i have them for you.

Brandon · 07-13-2005, 09:34 PM

So I dont want any triangulation on the bottom links, straight from the chassis to the axles work better? From everything I have tried that makes it worse... But I cant seem to figure out a way that will get more than 15-20* or artic. been working on it 3 hours today and still have nothing LOL. I got all of your pics and studied them, I really appreciate all your help!

johnrobholmes as well, thank you

Madkoifish · 07-14-2005, 12:22 AM

Ok

1 To attempt to fix the 4 link get those bottom links square to the chassis Ill post so pics here
2 mount the shock tops with nitro fule tube. As well Ill post pics.
Second Im wondering if the top link mount isnt too close to the chassis. mine is a bit farther forward on the servo about 1/2" It does look like the Bulu has a longer chassis than mine ( mine is bootyfabbed)

artic

arangement Lower links are on the inside of the hangers ( this makes it more parellel.

Shock mounts via silicon tube
So I say try to get those lower links inline with the chassis as much as you can by placing them on the inner parts of the hangers use some of the tlt spacers that came with the shocks to place in the old inner location for the ballends (see my tlt thread for more images) and shim them out on the chassis end. The tlt came with 4 alum thick polished washers, which would work perfectly there. Coned washers would be better since they give more clearance but finding the latter might prove hard as hell. Least it is here for me. Try to rotate that upper link mount to get the link location further out say instead of behind the servo stuff it in front or just behind the ears if they have a bracing plastic in the way. And as well it sounds dumb but are the sliders running out of room causing the bind??

shocks compressing for artic not axle movement

Lower link mounting
I hope all this helps some!!!

Brandon · 07-14-2005, 07:55 AM

I have tried most of your ideas there, thanks for the in depth description and pics!! The only thing that I can see that will probably help is moving my top link mount so that I can run longer links on the top. I will try that tonight.

Thanks again. This will turn out to be a good thread for others as well!!

tltnewb · 07-14-2005, 11:10 AM

didnt u say it was a three link setup i no about u but that looks like four links anyways killer truck

Brandon · 07-14-2005, 11:12 AM

In the very first pic its a 3 link, then in a later pic I posted to show its artic as a three link. Right now im working out the kinks in a 4 link setup, it would work a lot better if it actually worked lol. Thanks man!

Madkoifish · 07-14-2005, 03:23 PM

YOU know I justy had a silly idea what ball links and balls are those?? I seem to recal PWT or someone else saying to use traxxas ends with the tamiya balls or some such thing. My rig has stock traxxas tmaxx links and balls on top but lower are the stock tlt parts. Dunno but this might be it? I just find it odd others dont have the issues related to artic as you are. maybe another bulu user can post eye to eye link lengths in mm so you can compare??

Brandon · 07-14-2005, 03:41 PM

They are all traxxas revo ball studs, the links on top are lunsford titanium from a savage with traxxas studs (they gave freer movement than the lunsford ones.) I am going to try different links tonight though, i hope that is the issue

RCMFMaxxMan · 07-14-2005, 08:30 PM

hmmm. this is a very odd problem. i had the same problem but i guess i was lucky and it got solved within a few tries. My chassis is a homebrew though. i have no idea how it compares to a bulu. mine is much wider. well the only thing i could have thought of is the rod ends being at too extreme of an angle but looking at your pics that doesn't seem to be the problem. My next guess would be the mounting location of the top links and the top links lengths. those two things can make alot of difference. Also (you probably already did this but i'll mention it anyway) make sure that the suspension stays aren't clamping the bottom links. If it does it could restrict them from moving. Well thats all i can think of. try the different top link lengths and let us know if that does the trick.

tltnewb · 07-14-2005, 11:31 PM

yah cuz i was woundering to do a threee link on mine but i thought u mite have done it and it suked so u changed it but yah

Brandon · 07-15-2005, 08:07 AM

Yes I did the three link, ran the truck, tested it and it sucked, im sure I could have fixed most of the problems it had, but it was just way too floppy and loose on the rocks for me, but I will admit it articulated very well!

Well last night I got the 4 link done, well I have had it done but now it finally works, took it out on the rocks and its way way better than the 3 link, I will get some pics up tonight! Then I need to figure out what body im using and get that mounted. Thanks for all the help!

Brandon

RCMFMaxxMan · 07-15-2005, 11:15 AM

im glad to hear you solved the problem. good job. have fun with it!

LIKES2CRAWL · 07-16-2005, 12:53 PM

Well it's fixed, how's it run and where's the new pictures?

Brandon · 07-16-2005, 03:32 PM

It runs great, Im using a 1100 mah pack from my rc18t, actually gets really good run times too!! But it doesnt provide much weight over the front tires. Im still working with that. Also the steering servos arent the same. I have a futaba s9402 in the front, and a jr 8800z in the back, the jr feels stronger though so I am going to switch it to the front. I also mounted my Rock pleazer temporarily to take some shots on the rocks, im going to make some stronger body mounts and trim the body up.

So here are a few shots

RCMFMaxxMan · 07-16-2005, 06:14 PM

what brand battery are you using? I just picked up a dynamite pack today for my tlt. I really like your rear bumper. It looks great!

yoda316 · 07-16-2005, 06:58 PM

i was having the same exact problem with my tlt . i tried for 2 days to fix it but i couldnt figure out why it was doing what yours was doing. i ended up giving up and used the stock mounting points for the upper links on the axle and have them triangluate on the chassis side.
i hate having it this way, i have no place to put a battery and the axle has some sway in it.
so my question is how did you fix it? and if you could include pics.

Brandon · 07-16-2005, 07:07 PM

Hey man, All I did was eliminate every possible place that something could bind. The bottom links are straight out to the axle, while the upper links triangulate to the servo. Im using the same lenght top and lower links. Once I switched the links to the same lenght on the top and bottom, them moved the top mount over the servo my problems where solved.

Brandon · 07-16-2005, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCMFMaxxMan

what brand battery are you using? I just picked up a dynamite pack today for my tlt. I really like your rear bumper. It looks great!

Its an integy matched pack, no problems with it yet

bhamripper · 07-16-2005, 10:39 PM

could we see some off body shots? And a pic showing how you have your links set up. I am having the same problem that you were. Thanks

07-14-2005, 12:22 AM	#24
Madkoifish Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2005 Location: Auburn Posts: 360	My link set up Ok 1 To attempt to fix the 4 link get those bottom links square to the chassis Ill post so pics here 2 mount the shock tops with nitro fule tube. As well Ill post pics. Second Im wondering if the top link mount isnt too close to the chassis. mine is a bit farther forward on the servo about 1/2" It does look like the Bulu has a longer chassis than mine ( mine is bootyfabbed) artic arangement Lower links are on the inside of the hangers ( this makes it more parellel. Shock mounts via silicon tube So I say try to get those lower links inline with the chassis as much as you can by placing them on the inner parts of the hangers use some of the tlt spacers that came with the shocks to place in the old inner location for the ballends (see my tlt thread for more images) and shim them out on the chassis end. The tlt came with 4 alum thick polished washers, which would work perfectly there. Coned washers would be better since they give more clearance but finding the latter might prove hard as hell. Least it is here for me. Try to rotate that upper link mount to get the link location further out say instead of behind the servo stuff it in front or just behind the ears if they have a bracing plastic in the way. And as well it sounds dumb but are the sliders running out of room causing the bind?? shocks compressing for artic not axle movement Lower link mounting I hope all this helps some!!! Last edited by Madkoifish; 07-14-2005 at 12:29 AM. Reason: added more pics

07-13-2005, 09:12 PM	#21
JohnRobHolmes owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down! Posts: 20,290	if its not floppy with a 3 link setup, i would just run that. it looks to have plenty of articulation. if its too floppy im kinda at a loss. just make sure your ball ends arent hitting the brackets or chassis or being bent weird.

07-13-2005, 09:23 PM	#22
1beatjeep I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: san jose Posts: 2,061	bottom link are to far out at the axle .you have to move them in.i sent you pic of the links at the axle with new holes on the axle to mount the links to.if you need more pic i have them for you.

07-13-2005, 09:34 PM	#23
Brandon Im Brandon Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA Posts: 8,156	So I dont want any triangulation on the bottom links, straight from the chassis to the axles work better? From everything I have tried that makes it worse... But I cant seem to figure out a way that will get more than 15-20* or artic. been working on it 3 hours today and still have nothing LOL. I got all of your pics and studied them, I really appreciate all your help! johnrobholmes as well, thank you

07-14-2005, 07:55 AM	#25
Brandon Im Brandon Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA Posts: 8,156	I have tried most of your ideas there, thanks for the in depth description and pics!! The only thing that I can see that will probably help is moving my top link mount so that I can run longer links on the top. I will try that tonight. Thanks again. This will turn out to be a good thread for others as well!!

07-14-2005, 11:10 AM	#26
tltnewb Newbie Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: vancouver bc Posts: 26	didnt u say it was a three link setup i no about u but that looks like four links anyways killer truck

07-14-2005, 11:12 AM	#27
Brandon Im Brandon Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA Posts: 8,156	In the very first pic its a 3 link, then in a later pic I posted to show its artic as a three link. Right now im working out the kinks in a 4 link setup, it would work a lot better if it actually worked lol. Thanks man!

07-14-2005, 03:23 PM	#28
Madkoifish Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2005 Location: Auburn Posts: 360	YOU know I justy had a silly idea what ball links and balls are those?? I seem to recal PWT or someone else saying to use traxxas ends with the tamiya balls or some such thing. My rig has stock traxxas tmaxx links and balls on top but lower are the stock tlt parts. Dunno but this might be it? I just find it odd others dont have the issues related to artic as you are. maybe another bulu user can post eye to eye link lengths in mm so you can compare??

07-14-2005, 03:41 PM	#29
Brandon Im Brandon Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA Posts: 8,156	They are all traxxas revo ball studs, the links on top are lunsford titanium from a savage with traxxas studs (they gave freer movement than the lunsford ones.) I am going to try different links tonight though, i hope that is the issue

07-14-2005, 08:30 PM	#30
RCMFMaxxMan RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: ORegon Posts: 1,002	hmmm. this is a very odd problem. i had the same problem but i guess i was lucky and it got solved within a few tries. My chassis is a homebrew though. i have no idea how it compares to a bulu. mine is much wider. well the only thing i could have thought of is the rod ends being at too extreme of an angle but looking at your pics that doesn't seem to be the problem. My next guess would be the mounting location of the top links and the top links lengths. those two things can make alot of difference. Also (you probably already did this but i'll mention it anyway) make sure that the suspension stays aren't clamping the bottom links. If it does it could restrict them from moving. Well thats all i can think of. try the different top link lengths and let us know if that does the trick.

07-14-2005, 11:31 PM	#31
tltnewb Newbie Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: vancouver bc Posts: 26	yah cuz i was woundering to do a threee link on mine but i thought u mite have done it and it suked so u changed it but yah

Sponsored Links

07-15-2005, 08:07 AM	#32
Brandon Im Brandon Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA Posts: 8,156	Yes I did the three link, ran the truck, tested it and it sucked, im sure I could have fixed most of the problems it had, but it was just way too floppy and loose on the rocks for me, but I will admit it articulated very well! Well last night I got the 4 link done, well I have had it done but now it finally works, took it out on the rocks and its way way better than the 3 link, I will get some pics up tonight! Then I need to figure out what body im using and get that mounted. Thanks for all the help! Brandon

07-15-2005, 11:15 AM	#33
RCMFMaxxMan RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: ORegon Posts: 1,002	im glad to hear you solved the problem. good job. have fun with it!

07-16-2005, 12:53 PM	#34
LIKES2CRAWL I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: KENNEWICK, WA Posts: 2,513	Well it's fixed, how's it run and where's the new pictures?

07-16-2005, 03:32 PM	#35
Brandon Im Brandon Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA Posts: 8,156	It runs great, Im using a 1100 mah pack from my rc18t, actually gets really good run times too!! But it doesnt provide much weight over the front tires. Im still working with that. Also the steering servos arent the same. I have a futaba s9402 in the front, and a jr 8800z in the back, the jr feels stronger though so I am going to switch it to the front. I also mounted my Rock pleazer temporarily to take some shots on the rocks, im going to make some stronger body mounts and trim the body up. So here are a few shots

07-16-2005, 06:14 PM	#36
RCMFMaxxMan RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: ORegon Posts: 1,002	what brand battery are you using? I just picked up a dynamite pack today for my tlt. I really like your rear bumper. It looks great!

07-16-2005, 06:58 PM	#37
yoda316 Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: eureka Posts: 577	i was having the same exact problem with my tlt . i tried for 2 days to fix it but i couldnt figure out why it was doing what yours was doing. i ended up giving up and used the stock mounting points for the upper links on the axle and have them triangluate on the chassis side. i hate having it this way, i have no place to put a battery and the axle has some sway in it. so my question is how did you fix it? and if you could include pics.

07-16-2005, 07:07 PM	#38
Brandon Im Brandon Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA Posts: 8,156	Hey man, All I did was eliminate every possible place that something could bind. The bottom links are straight out to the axle, while the upper links triangulate to the servo. Im using the same lenght top and lower links. Once I switched the links to the same lenght on the top and bottom, them moved the top mount over the servo my problems where solved.

07-16-2005, 10:39 PM	#40
bhamripper Newbie Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 27	could we see some off body shots? And a pic showing how you have your links set up. I am having the same problem that you were. Thanks

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