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01-09-2006, 03:26 PM
| #1 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Citrus Heights
Posts: 70
|  NEWB-TLT crawler w/Losi parts  This is my first crack at a crawler. Tamiya TLT w/t max links, Losi shocks, Losi XXXT trans, Stock length losi universals connected to stampede rustler yokes. Moab tires w/3oz of weight glued on each front rim. Novak XRS esc. No lathe motor yet, no one has them....I had to add a slot in the chassis for the spur gear to go through, but the trans is pretty low and the motor is almost centered in the chassis. It crawls pretty well, but I could use a little more articulation and a much stronger steering servo.......  |
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01-09-2006, 03:45 PM
| #2 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: G6'N
Posts: 7,391
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Well I was expecting to see a pile of parts and a bunch of ?'s. I was pleasently surprised, NICE truck, nice use of parts. You might want to mount your battery on top of the front links and servo for better weight balance, also you may want to change chassis' down the road, but run it till' it breaks, looks good.
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01-09-2006, 03:56 PM
| #3 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Central NY
Posts: 1,980
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Yeah either get a new chassis or do some serious hacking at the bottom of it. Move the tranny up along with all your links and cut some off the bottom. Like so Friend's TLT . He used a Pede tranny but you should be able to do the same with the tranny you're using now.
Last edited by ILoveRCRockCrawlin; 03-30-2006 at 05:13 PM. |
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01-09-2006, 04:00 PM
| #4 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 560
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Nice little rig. I have always liked losi shocks. For some reason I can get them to work better than other brands. I have been toying with the idea of a Losi tranny. I have seen Aubie run them in his tubers. I was wondering about the drive shaft issue. Got any better pics of your driveshaft setup?
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01-09-2006, 04:59 PM
| #5 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Citrus Heights
Posts: 70
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Thanks for the compliments, I'll try to post a pic of the drive shaft setup tomorrow. I never thought to move the links & tranny up, but it makes perfect sense. The battery is too long to put on the front links, I was going to split it 3-3 on the front axle. And I agree losi shocks seem to be easier to build/get smooth..I dont like associated where you have to put all the o-rings in...I always tear them.... Right now my problem seems to be the shocks/shock mounting. Everything moves freely and articulates well w/o the shocks. As soon as they go on it looses a bunch of articulation (I know is supposed to, but it seems like too much). I have 20wt oil and the softest springs I have. Do the tops of the shocks need to move out more away from the chassis?? |
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01-09-2006, 05:03 PM
| #6 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: G6'N
Posts: 7,391
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possiblely put a nylon or fuel tube spacer on the upper shock mount, also, lay your shocks down a little bit, you may gain more flex that way too.
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01-09-2006, 05:10 PM
| #7 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Orlando
Posts: 7,420
| Looking sweeter than a new set of snow tires! |
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01-09-2006, 05:10 PM
| #8 |
| Diggin' the new SCX10 II!   Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Norcal
Posts: 11,402
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It does not look like your links are triangulated at all. Try mounting your upper links behind the servo.
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01-10-2006, 12:22 AM
| #9 | |
| I wanna be Dave  Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Corruptifornia
Posts: 12,107
| Quote:
EDIT: I always liked the TL shocks too, but the AEs are very nice...just have to take your time assembling them and lube all the o-rings real well with AE Green Slime...works great. I dislike the bladder style shocks (Traxxas and Kyosho) because they are hard to keep a good seal at the cap without distorting the bladder seal and still keep the cap from self-loosening. Last edited by Natedog; 01-10-2006 at 12:44 AM. | |
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01-10-2006, 06:12 AM
| #10 |
| Pebble Pounder  Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Destination Hobbies, Ut Where The Fun Begins...
Posts: 129
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Great looking budget build. Where did you get your wheels , are they HPI's ? I have been trying to find these wheels in black for a while now. Do you have a part #?
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01-10-2006, 10:56 AM
| #11 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Citrus Heights
Posts: 70
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Here's a shot of the Axle, also the wheels are HPI "super star's" #3031 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCEA1&P=7  |
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01-10-2006, 01:34 PM
| #12 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 2,129
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Take out the lower cross bars in the chassis at the front, mount some velcro to the servo and your battery and run it there. Should fit there fine and get the CG an inch lower. Also, move your steering links above the knuckles and get rid of that tall thing that is on your one steering knuckle. Those tend to just flex the plastic knuckle when you get into a bind. As for your shocks, move them to the holes just below the body mounts, that should help with a softer over all setup. Lastly, losi did have sliders that came with XXX-T spec trucks, they slide perfectly with stampede shafts, so if you want to go to a slider setup, just look for losi spec diff outputs. |
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01-10-2006, 03:38 PM
| #13 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 2,129
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Found the outputs for the spec diff. They are losi part number A3095 and A3025 for their sliders (though you should just need stampede sliders and I think traxxas ball joints will work within the losi outputs).
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01-10-2006, 05:10 PM
| #14 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Corruptifornia
Posts: 12,107
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How did you lock your Losi diff?
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01-11-2006, 11:02 AM
| #15 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Citrus Heights
Posts: 70
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I glued the diff rings to the outdrive hubs, didn't use any balls in the diff gear. And made some washers out of rough grit sand paper. I traced the diff rings on the paper before glueing them and cut a few out. I sandwiched the sandpaper washers between the gear and diff rings on both sides and tightened the nut. It holds pretty well. This method is similar to how you lock a front diff on a 4wd touring car. It holds pretty well
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01-11-2006, 04:25 PM
| #16 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Corruptifornia
Posts: 12,107
| Quote:
I thought about doing similiar but without the sandpaper rings, instead just ca the rings to the gear, but then it would be harder to replace the gear. | |
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01-11-2006, 04:42 PM
| #17 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Citrus Heights
Posts: 70
| Yeah, just pressure holding the sandpaper washers, I also used a different screw/nut going between the diff halves. A little bigger than the stock one, no drilling needed |
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01-11-2006, 11:49 PM
| #18 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Corruptifornia
Posts: 12,107
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Thanks FlexinTLT!  |
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01-13-2006, 01:19 PM
| #19 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Winston-Salem
Posts: 200
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01-13-2006, 02:34 PM
| #20 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Citrus Heights
Posts: 70
| The black part bolts diretly to the shaft, via a screw in the middle. The other end is way too big to fit in the diff outputs of a stock TLT trans. (I'm using a losi xxxt trans) You could lengthen the shaft a little by using a longer screw and some washers between the dogbone and plastic yoke, but you couldn't shorten it very easily.... Heres a diagram of the dogbone/yoke https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...=ns&pn=LOS3090 |
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