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Thread: 206 crawler W.I.P.

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Old 07-19-2006, 07:26 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4stAir
wow you guys are losing me with all the electronic stuff.... that means this is gonna turn out really cool and really innovative.. good work.
ya i think your write! I think its already cool and definatly one of a kind/ one off great work keep it comin
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Old 07-29-2006, 03:04 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by microgoat
I see a lot of good, innovative ideas in this build. I especially like the Maxx diff used as a tranny, but I think your gearing will be too low when it's combined with that 50:1 planetary box. The maxx diff has a reduction of 2.5:1, compared to the Stampede tranny's 2.72, so you're not that far off to begin with. Unless you plan on running a lot of cells (8-10?) it's going to be really slow. The little 370 motor will save weight, though.

For the wheel hubs, what about drilling all the way through the cap nut and machining a slot in the end, and using it to replace the drive hex? I have a feeling your right-side wheels will come off once you start driving this rig, even with Loctite.

A one-way will cost you your reverse, as well as your brakes, and you'll have a hard time fitting one inside a TLT axle. Better to use a differential brake system, with a standard servo on the axle and a rod-actuated brake at each wheel. Have the brake press against the back side of the wheel. In the center position, no brake is activated. If you want to be tricky, mix the brake and steering channels so you don't have to activate the brake manually.

I'll be watching, this is good stuff
I assume it's slow but it's what i want, didn't mentioned that the 1:1 is an euro trial rig from the franco-swiss challenge, not a trash style U.S. crawler (just watched a mad RP film ) , it's an other style of driving with no time limit and the gates are about 10cm larger than the vehicle...

I have a 240x total reduction on an other tlt and I find it fine in the rocks(not for race obviously)seems unstopable, don't brake anything,run half the day with a 3800battery pack... I was really not satisfied of the buggy tranny and 65tmotor I used in the past , no stall torque, bad running time, destroying parts cause you need to go full trottle in.... but before I started the project I was not suposed to use the maxx diff as tranny , only the 50:1 gearbox with a 3:1 homemade tranny..maybe for another project or a B version.

also I made a new set of adapaters with lockers:






My first frame idea with aluminum L don't have good capacity if i want to put the tranny in, it may work with 3 or 4 links but not with this massive A arm so i'll find something else..maybe an alum+epoxy tuber





Now for the diff braking I fear that putting the stick in the broke wheel will stop progression when it' ll get back on the terrain(don't forget that S.U.V. have ABS and low reaction time) so, i standby it and make the other system of the 1:1 : it has 4 rams instead of shocks; i think if I let the axle 100% locked and take of the wheel by a servo cam on the shocks
it should help to turn tighter.


Last edited by SilverRidge; 07-29-2006 at 04:25 AM.
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Old 07-29-2006, 07:47 AM   #23
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That's friggin awesome
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Old 07-29-2006, 09:30 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by microgoat
I see a lot of good, innovative ideas in this build. I especially like the Maxx diff used as a tranny, but I think your gearing will be too low when it's combined with that 50:1 planetary box. The maxx diff has a reduction of 2.5:1, compared to the Stampede tranny's 2.72, so you're not that far off to begin with. Unless you plan on running a lot of cells (8-10?) it's going to be really slow. The little 370 motor will save weight, though.

For the wheel hubs, what about drilling all the way through the cap nut and machining a slot in the end, and using it to replace the drive hex? I have a feeling your right-side wheels will come off once you start driving this rig, even with Loctite.

A one-way will cost you your reverse, as well as your brakes, and you'll have a hard time fitting one inside a TLT axle. Better to use a differential brake system, with a standard servo on the axle and a rod-actuated brake at each wheel. Have the brake press against the back side of the wheel. In the center position, no brake is activated. If you want to be tricky, mix the brake and steering channels so you don't have to activate the brake manually.

I'll be watching, this is good stuff
??Humina,Humina,Humina???. Man you guys have love for this.Does the plastic horn flex at all?
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Old 07-29-2006, 02:32 PM   #25
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just made a try at the cage with epoxy in front top bar and armed polyester in the rear bar and alum. very light but needs to be renforced with other bars, I'll see tomorrow morning if the epoxy is ok



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Old 07-29-2006, 04:13 PM   #26
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Um, wow! Thats all I can say. Talk about outside of the box thinking.
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Old 07-29-2006, 08:10 PM   #27
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wow this thing is is AMAZING!!! its the most unique tlt truck out there so far nothing is like it!!! wow any more updates?
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Old 07-31-2006, 01:58 PM   #28
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I don't have enough tube to finish the cage bumper and rear , and I won't buy some now cause I 'm in holidays after tomorrow, so I just played a few with the body and made a little preview of what it will supposed to be.

http://silverridge71.chez-alice.fr/sr71preview.rar (2.3Mo)

The cage with the cab rear reinforcement bars weight 48gr.. I'm really surprised it could be so light and rigid,
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Old 07-31-2006, 11:15 PM   #29
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Old 08-01-2006, 05:08 AM   #30
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one piece alloy frame
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Old 08-01-2006, 10:12 AM   #31
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This looks great! Keep up the good work. Looking forward to seeing the completion.
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Old 08-01-2006, 02:48 PM   #32
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i noticed a broken piece of aluminum square stock, might i suggest attempting to anneal it before bending? this way you you wont break it...
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Old 08-01-2006, 03:13 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peej410
i noticed a broken piece of aluminum square stock, might i suggest attempting to anneal it before bending? this way you you wont break it...
Anneal is just heating it up with a torch then bending right? Do you spray it with water after bending to put the temper back in?
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Old 08-01-2006, 03:17 PM   #34
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http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/copperwi2.htm

one of many explanations about annealing

oh and this http://www.tinmantech.com/html/alumi..._continued.php
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Old 08-01-2006, 03:43 PM   #35
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Cool, thanks for the links.
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Old 08-01-2006, 03:44 PM   #36
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no prob keep up the awesome work! im glad to see someone take the path less traveled!
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Old 08-01-2006, 07:09 PM   #37
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This is one of the trickest tlts i have seen!
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Old 08-01-2006, 10:59 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peej410
i noticed a broken piece of aluminum square stock, might i suggest attempting to anneal it before bending? this way you you wont break it...
thanks for your suggest & the links , you're right I first tried to bend 10mm square aluminium cold with a hummer and had done too much, bent it back and it has broke. tried a second time with smaller section in the vice ,soften before and bending by hand slowly making the radius to don't over stress it...at least I hope..

Last edited by SilverRidge; 08-01-2006 at 11:15 PM.
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Old 08-08-2006, 08:30 PM   #39
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Youve got some great Ideas. I really like your Maxx centre diff. I may have to use a variation on that for my TLT build.
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Old 08-09-2006, 12:46 PM   #40
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Looking a little better. Keep them coming!
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