Rear disconect with revo shafts

[Kamikaze]

In case your interested here's how my super works.

[rcxj]

i have a question as your suspenison travels how does the drive shaft slide.

[Kamikaze]

Originally Posted by rcxj

i have a question as your suspenison travels how does the drive shaft slide.

It is two male shafts with a section of female splines inside the delrin slider, the two male shafts have a dowel pin running through them both, it is pressed into one and has a few thousanths clearance on the other.

[TxCruzr]

Is your rear axle not locked? If it is, wouldn't locking up one tire lock up the other also? Just like on a 1:1 rig with a welded or spooled rear.

[Kamikaze]

You are correct, if you stop on you stop them both.

[Trikster]

Very nice and clean setup. The Delrin slider disconnect is very awesome. I tried doing something along that line and ended up glueing the female part inside the slider housing by accident (used thin CA instead of thick and it ran inside the slider). Seeing how well yours works, I think I will have to give it another shot.

[Kamikaze]

If enough people wold be interested I've been thinking of getting a vender star and making tubers, this part is something I could make a bunch of if you all would supply the demand for it.

[Cloak]

On the first post, 2nd pic with the rear disengaged, are we looking at it under full compression?

If not, don't you have binding issues with the shafts pushing up against each other? You need some sort of play in there for the axle to move when it articulates. Maybe I'm not seeing it correctly.

[Kamikaze]

That is at ride height. There would be a problem there but my rear drive shaft only needs that much room to move because of the placement of my links. The links are mounted at relative points to the center of the u joints so when the axle cycles up and down the driveshaft follows it, the axle moves in the same arc as the drive shaft. I have always built my 1 to 1 rigs in that manner, in my last 1 to 1 buggy I had 4 links front and rear and neither driveshaft would move in and out more than an inch because of link placement, no mater how the axle was flexed. I don't know if this will help but heres a crude diagram, by keeping the bottom links and the driveshafts moving alomg the same arc you can all but eliminate the driveshaft having to change lenghts, due to the fact they follow the same radius.

[Kamikaze]

here a pic

[Trikster]

You got your links even better than I did on my rig. My axles compress less than 1/8 inch when I articulate.

Climbed my first near vertical face yesterday. My rig is only 11" WB and the face I crawled up was 13" up with a slope extending @ 30% leading up to it. Without front dig, it took me about 20 tries and the one that finally did it, I took almost 5 minutes to get up. Was quite a rush once I did it though, made myself proud.

[Kamikaze]

I actualy use the disconect without the brake more than with it. It works great when you are near vertical but your front tires are just about to reach the top. I just kick the rear out of gear and let the front wheels suck me down on the leadge enough to get the rear of the ground then punch the throtle and reengage the rear. I did it a few times on the last video I made if you will watch close you can see it. I wouldn't have made those rocks without it, I tried.

[Badd]

I am running this same setup . here is a link to more pics of it . My PIMP SLAP build

[LIKES2CRAWL]

Originally Posted by Kamikaze

If enough people wold be interested I've been thinking of getting a vender star and making tubers, this part is something I could make a bunch of if you all would supply the demand for it.

That sounds like a great idea, I've realy enjoyed your builds and like the out come of both your 2.2 and the Copperhead.

[Kamikaze]

Just to save my hide, I posted that well before the ban on non-vendor feeler threads, but thanks for the compliment.