limited travel after adding shock arms..HELP PLEASE!

[-BIGMAXX-]

I have a serious loss in the flex department after outboarding the shocks and adding shock arms to my LNC.
I picked up some 3.8mm spacers to mount the shock arms and it feels like there is no binding, but I lost some much flex that it tips over before the shocks even compress much even with all spring tension removed.

Here are a couple pics of where Im at with it.



I have the arms mounted in the lower of the three holes leaving the outstrechted part of the arm where the shock mounts in a lower position. Should I change this?

PLEASE HELP!

[-BIGMAXX-]

Here is a couple pics of how far it flexs at just the moment the rear tire lifts. It did much better than this stock. Im am currently removing the springs to see if that may be part of the issue then I will put the bottom of my shocks back in the stock location meanwhile I'd love some insight for you pros....

[redrokin00XJ]

I ran into the exact same problem when I tried that on mine.... You either need to space the top (3 or 4 washers should work fine) or you will need to flip them back. Those Losi shocks only perform well when they are in-line, top and bottom. If you space the bottom you will need to space the top as well. Hope this helps ya.

[-BIGMAXX-]

They seemed to bind alot when they were inline. I was playing with mounting the shock arms on the out side of the chassis to keep them in line but the binding was horrible so I mounted the arms inside on spacers and it seemed better. Right now they are 4 1/4" at the axle and a hair under 3" at the top by the arms.

Are you saying I should keep them the same distance part top and bottom or close to it?

[highlandcrawler]

I would pivot the mounts into the center hole and mount the shocks about 2-3 more holes back on the arm. Move the front shocks back inside the mounts and add a couple mm worth of spacers at the top of the shock in the rear. Add around 3-6mm of limiters on the outside of the shocks and you will be surprised how well things work Scrapping that big chunk of weight in the frame will help with tipping over also.

[redrokin00XJ]

I think he added that weight to compensate for the motor due to the fact that he flipped his tranny 180* the motor is more extreme to the one side due to fact of the 180*. If it were me, I wouldn't flip the tranny.... The risk isn't worth the reward. By lining up the shafts you made your COG bad. The less weight you have from axles on up the better...... Just sayin

That's my 2 pesos....

[-BIGMAXX-]

Thanks for the info Highland, This is the set up I ended up using...at least for now. I'll probably do your exact recommendation on a night that I haven't reset the shock 100 times already. I turned the shocks back over right side up and outboarded all four corners without added spacers this time. I mounted the shock arms on the inside of the chassis where they should be with the same spacers I used before in the highest arch position and used the furthest hole from the chassis to mount the top of the shock to the arm. Now the shosk ends are just about 4" apart on the axle and 3.5" apart on top. This works so much better.

Heres the pic of the shock locations..same front and rear..for now


and here is the amount of flex now right before the rear lifts. its close to 1.5" extra over my previous shock location

[-BIGMAXX-]

That is correct Red..the wieghts on the chassis is to balance out the trans' overhang. Those along with my lipo on that side even it out very well. I know this trans mod is not for everyone but by doing this and removing my battery tray my COG is sooo much better its a fair trade off. I use this strickly for fun, no comp at this time so if its no right its really no big deal..I'm still learning this chassis and this is how thats done, trying stuff out and listening to the people who know best. I'll update my build thread now....here
C4 LNC Build