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05-28-2012, 04:00 PM | #1 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 153
| Try to keep the shafty alive build.
With the lack of builds on here lately And me not being able to keep up with the stuff Ive done to it lately I figured it was time for me to start a build thread. Also this is a reference in case I tune it wrong and it sucks CURRENT: Jr DS8711 Steering servo Novak Ballistic Crawler Brushless Motor 18.5t Novak goat 3s All the aluminum axle parts you can put on them. CDW topper CDW battery plate CDW Servo mount CDW servo armor(if I ever get bolts long enough) Or build something Sedonas white unkown forams IIRC Lnc links front custom rears NEXT: LCC shocks w/ gold springs and red pistons OTTSIX links and VOODOO tares If I ever get free time to go to his house. Less weight Hd gears front and another set for the gfs lnc Spare panels (cuz I cant drive) Better remote! More testing/tuning/testing/tuning/testing/tuning/testing/tuning/ Here it is when I got it Got some stock axial wheels with some rock grabber tires. Worked good. Should have left it there Then I came into a car with the some of the specs above for a decent price. I added all the cdw stuff. Here it sits as of the other day Sorry for the cell phone pics lol Here is the weight This is all for now. Will have many pics when I get back from work(I dont have a scale here at home ) Hopefully with the pics I take tonight It should add up to 5 or so lbs. Thats with the dig servo! But we will see Im gonna aim high on this one. |
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05-28-2012, 04:26 PM | #2 |
Defy Gravity Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: wells, mn
Posts: 2,326
| Re: Try to keep the shafty alive build.
get out the saw of your choice and start cutting. the stock chassis has a lot that can be cut out, helps even more if you can get some cdw rails on it . it takes a fair amount of work to get the stocker around 5 lbs, and at the end of the day for me at least, it didn't work as well as it did when it was heavier. with the cdw rails, it did pretty good around the 5lb 1oz region, and with my phoenix, the lighter the better. cut the plates, mabye some work with the drill, change all the spacers to delrin tube, aluminum hardware, whatever floats your boat there. i got sick of it, been running the phoenix iterations ever since...just a different level once you get it tuned. easiest and most effective stock chassis mod would be the rubbaneck mod, seen it in proper hands and it flat out works. dunno how well it would do with the cdw topper. beyond that, the stock lnc lowers turned to spaghetti for me after a while, the rears being the worst, the fronts would do it too. the lnc uppers on the other hand are great, over-molded a steel core. i found no real reason to swap to aluminum parts on the axles, nor the steering tierod. all of that is more or less factory plastic with some cheap mods. the factory plastic knuckles, lockouts, c's and tierod are honestly good parts, i haven't broken a single one, even with the mods i did to them, and if i do, they're cheap. the lnc shocks are actually good, only reason i changed the bodies out was to get rid of the blue. beyond that, rpm dual stage pistons and internal springs are working well, do have to do an oil change due to weight. the biggest things are the o-rings, the TRITEP3010 o-rings simply do not leak. and the better remote...well, i dealt with a dx3e for about a year, i liked it at the time, but once i got my gt3b setup....there is no comparison. for me at least, the gt3b trumps any spek wheel radio in terms of comfort, ease of use, and features. i find it more comfortable to use than the futaba 4pl as well, the 4pl is a nice radio, but the handle just feels wrong ergonomically, and the menus don't jive with me. you're on a good start, but take your own path here. we all may give tuning advice, but a truck's performance is largely a function of the person behind the wheel. if the truck works for you and where you run at a certain weight, don't take the weight chasers (like myself) pressure you into messing with a good thing. there is no replacement for wheel time. |
05-28-2012, 04:28 PM | #3 |
MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio
Posts: 18,928
| Re: Try to keep the shafty alive build. |
05-28-2012, 06:51 PM | #4 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 394
| Re: Try to keep the shafty alive build.
Nice cab!!!
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05-28-2012, 09:27 PM | #5 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2011 Location: Bama!
Posts: 514
| Re: Try to keep the shafty alive build.
Looks Alot like mine !!! Nice
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05-28-2012, 09:51 PM | #6 |
Got Worms? Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 6,116
| Re: Try to keep the shafty alive build.
Cool...i'll be starting my new build soon so i'll try and liven up this section alittle more too |
05-30-2012, 01:37 PM | #7 | |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 153
| Re: Try to keep the shafty alive build. Havent had time to tinker with it. School(8hrs) and work(10hrs) plus drive time kills my free time. Thanks!! Wonder where it came from. Quote:
Will have an update inbetween school and work. Im really confidante that I can be at or below 5lbs. | |
05-30-2012, 01:51 PM | #8 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 153
| Re: Try to keep the shafty alive build. Tire before shedding wight. Tire after shedding weight. I was too lazy to take them off the wheels. That is white sedonas proline beadlocks and stock foams. Have lighter wheels Old battery 1500mah lipo. New batteries 850mah lipo. I keep forgetting to take parts to work with me to wieght. |
06-03-2012, 10:42 PM | #9 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 153
| Re: Try to keep the shafty alive build.
Got it put back together today. Bought a dx3c but I didnt read the set up on the dig and killed the 2 servos I had. Will be reading more on this but From what I under stand is that the mixing setting(only one I could get the servo to move) needs to be set low? So the P.O of the car programed it to hit fast in reverse then forward. I guess when I put it all together with shorter wires and what no It seems to have done the opposite? So what wire is forword and which is reverse? Pics inbound. EDIT:pics Axle shaved. Every little bit counts! Tires look better like this IMO. These wheels suck, I cant get them to hold a bead for the life of me. Maybe Im doing it wrong? New ones on the way New location for the goat and BEC? Prolly 1/2" lower then before. Wiring cleaned up kinda. Dig servo is broken as said before. You can see where I shaved the chassis Round #1 Belly clearence. Cant find a tape. Last edited by Frikenwoodro; 06-03-2012 at 11:50 PM. |
06-03-2012, 11:56 PM | #10 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 153
| Re: Try to keep the shafty alive build. Flex shot. Again no tape Shocks are limited 3/8" front and rear. It floats? Axle lube dodad. Fits in the holes perfect. Got it at harbor frieght for -$5 New panels I gave my sister to cut out Lol I always see this shot so I figured Id push it a little. There was one under the front and rear tire. Was very stable! Will have to wait on a final weight till I can get to work and put it on a scale. Going to have to set the servo in the cab to get a correct weight. |
06-04-2012, 12:08 PM | #11 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 153
| Re: Try to keep the shafty alive build.
Headed to school(8hrs) then work(10hrs) so should have pics tomorrow/late tonight or final weight!
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06-05-2012, 02:02 AM | #12 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 153
| Re: Try to keep the shafty alive build.
5lbs 3 oz. total weght as of right now. 4oz in fronts 0 in rear Havent drove it like this but I didnt change any on the suspension so It should be where I liked it last. Have another rick up my sleve for weight savings. |
06-14-2012, 06:53 PM | #13 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 153
| Re: Try to keep the shafty alive build. 5.03lbs rtr Got another chassis I made lighter. So should be under 5 soon ;) then Ill stop. I need to program the esc cuz forward sucks right now. Played with it on a road barrior at work the other day its broken in half. Drove right up it. Still getting used to the dig tho. Have 2 vp wheels in the front and soon to have matching in the rear. Love how they hold a bead!!!! Last edited by Frikenwoodro; 06-14-2012 at 06:56 PM. |
06-16-2012, 02:42 PM | #14 |
Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Gadsden
Posts: 29
| Re: Try to keep the shafty alive build.
Where is the white cab from?
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06-16-2012, 04:25 PM | #15 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 153
| Re: Try to keep the shafty alive build.
I got it from a guy here. Its from crawler design works. They no longer make it.
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06-16-2012, 07:04 PM | #16 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: St. Albans
Posts: 1,441
| Re: Try to keep the shafty alive build.
I loved my CDW bodiless setup. By far the best setup for running a stock uncut LCC chassis.
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06-17-2012, 11:44 AM | #17 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 153
| Re: Try to keep the shafty alive build.
Its good but I cant drive and on my second set of panels. Really likeing the setup i have now. It crawls flawlessly! Tried mini springs not sold on them. Gonna try and get a set of gold springs I think. Gonna go out today and hopefully take some pics. |
06-17-2012, 05:27 PM | #18 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: St. Albans
Posts: 1,441
| Re: Try to keep the shafty alive build.
I ran golds on all 4 corners when I ran it with the topper. Here's my old thread with some pics of my suspension setup with the topper on it. Killswitch's LCC I thought I had listed shocks oils and pistons, but it looks like I didn't. I know I have those shocks built in the workshop and they should have the pistons and shock oil weight written on them. I'll post them up when I dig them out. |
06-17-2012, 09:23 PM | #19 |
Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Gadsden
Posts: 29
| Re: Try to keep the shafty alive build.
Does anyone still sell cabs for the LCC chassis that you know of?
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06-17-2012, 11:21 PM | #20 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: St. Albans
Posts: 1,441
| Re: Try to keep the shafty alive build. |
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