LNC class 2 scaler build thread

[Josh_Br]

Last November, I got a used AX10 Scorpion RTC. Over the next several months, it was transformed into a class 3 scaler, sporting a tcscrawlers X-Trail chassis and HPI Bronco body, and a bunch of other mods (of course ). I like the truck and it drives well. My LHS has started having informal "run what you brung" crawler events once a month. A couple friends have class 2 and class 3 scalers, and I've been wanting to try class 2. I picked up a slightly used LNC that was on consignment at my LHS for $150. It has some aluminum axle parts but is otherwise stock. I have an SCX10 frame on the way, as well as some internal shock springs. I hope to set it up on that frame, do a partial compression / partial droop shock set up, and do a pickup cab with a wooden bed to start with. Here's a pic of the truck as-is now:



Down the road, I'd like to do overdrive gears in the front, and get some more scale looking wheels and tires.

This is my first experience with a Losi crawler. If anyone has any ideas or suggestions, they are welcome

[Tin Soldier]

Come over and get a full run down on my losi.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

[GiJoe]

Make sure you keep the LNC trans. Prob gonna need at least a 20T pinion and a hot motor (13.5 brushless good choice) on at least 3s to get any wheelspeed out of a class 2 rig.

Also, LCC driveshafts will be easier to work with when hooking up your suspension due to slight wheelbase changes you may occur.

Here is link to build thread for my Losi Class 3
Losi Class 3 / Mudd'n Militia 79 Ford F-250

[Josh_Br]

Are the only major differenced between the LNC and LCC the dig and the driveshafts? Just wondering.

[GiJoe]

Originally Posted by Josh_Br

Are the only major differenced between the LNC and LCC the dig and the driveshafts? Just wondering.

Not really...axles, skid plate, TVP and Suspension geometry are the same.

LCC has better shocks, better driveshafts ( in my opinion ), totally different trans, different shock / battery mounting and aluminum links / tie-rod.

For a scaler, I think the LNC is a better choice due to the tranny alone... LCC driveshafts are easy to find on e-gay, the LNC trans is not. The LNC even has lights

Suspension links will more than likely be a trial and error to get the geometry right. Not gonna be able to simply swap LNC links to the SCX chassis. I mixed and matched LCC / SCX links with my homemade skid to get geometry "close", but not perfect. May have to make homemade links as well.

[Josh_Br]

Ok, thanks, I had been wondering. Yeah, I'm happy about the lights that it came with I was a little surprised at the ghetto driveshafts though. I can make links if needed, but want to get the body first.

I have been thinking about the skid plate. GiJoe, you said you made your own. Ryan, which skidplate does your LCC scaler use?

[avanord]

Nice choice to do another scaler. I am pretty sure I just came to the same conclusion this morning. Except I think I am going to turn my honcho into the class 2 truck and project basket case into a tube buggy type class 3.

[Josh_Br]

Originally Posted by avanord

Nice choice to do another scaler. I am pretty sure I just came to the same conclusion this morning. Except I think I am going to turn my honcho into the class 2 truck and project basket case into a tube buggy type class 3.

I think that's a very good idea. When I read your recent post about basket case breaking again, I thought that maybe you could make it into something different, make good use of the nice drivetrain parts, and have better luck. Well, let us know if you start building!

[Tin Soldier]

yeah, I kept a set of rock lights from my LNC. The LCC does have better suspension and stuff. I had issues with my links and stuff. When the rig would lean to one way the wheels would pinch together causing steer like a bicycle. I had to really mess with it. Also, the losi WB was way shorter then Axial. You may want to stretch it out a bit. I left mine short on purpose, but it does require picking better lines.

[NFG]

Originally Posted by Josh_Br

I was a little surprised at the ghetto driveshafts though.

Those driveshafts are awesome. I have kicked the crap out of mine and they still "keep on keepin' on". 3 cell Lipo power, sticky tires all twisted up clawing for traction and never an issue. Mine have maybe 40 plus hours of abuse and they still function perfectly. They have also taken a few direct hits from hight and still have not bent or broke.

They also let you run bent links with minimal clearance issues. I would switch them up with my LCC but I am going MOA and there is no point.

[Tin Soldier]

BTW I had an LNC that I swapped a LCC tranny into and comped with. Never broke a driveshaft. Just like NFG said, they will take a beating.

Also can you measure the ride height from the bottom of the skid? I am trying to figure out if I need to lower mine down or not.

[Tin Soldier]

Oh also, you will find that you may have issues with certain wheels on the LNC. They have a different offset then Axials and the wheels rub. That's why I put the wideners on mine. Or you can do a better aluminum wheel with better offset. I do have a set of 1.9 wheels and tire if you are interested.

[NFG]

I ditched the plastic hex drives and put on Aluminium Losi Comp Crawler ones. Way better. I had a wheel nut issue that eventualy spun the wheels on the soft stock hexs and rounded them off. On my Comp Crawler I run some TLR buggy hexs that I had to mod slightly. These units are bulletproof and look like a million dollars.

I also found that the Axial hexs work but you need to grind down the lip at the top. The one real issue is that Axial uses a fatter pin so there is a little slop in the drive as it loads up. In a pinch I would us them. In fact I have a set in my spares just in case I need a quick repair.

[Josh_Br]

For the past couple days, I've been nearly driving myself crazy, trying to find the complete front cab of a hi-lux for a reasonable price. I'm not willing to spend above $40 on a body; that just seems like too much for me. Sure, towerhobbies or rc4wd has the hi-lux cab for $15 or so, but then you need the back of the cab, the grille, the bumper, at a minimum, which adds up to about $60, not to mention the windshild, and I don't know if you need the radiator support in order to mount the grille....so I eventually gave up on that and got the lexan version: Yota 1/10 Lexan Scale Body. Not sure if Ill try to chop off the bed and do a wooden bed, or maybe just leave the body as-is, at least for now. It was $36 shipped, which still seems like a lot, but maybe I'm getting older and stingy....

[Tin Soldier]

Dude! You should have asked! I have a brand new Yota lexan here unpainted. I would have done $25. :-)

[NFG]

Ha ha! I am cheap and stingy too. But compared to the motorcycle hobby I have this RC stuff is cheap. Still I work hard for my money and parting with it I expect value. Bottom line some times you have to pay to play!

[Tin Soldier]

I have over $6k wrapped up in this hobby, but I had that in one jeep axle when I ran 1:1. So this is waaaayyyy better. I currently have 12 trucks here. :-)

[Josh_Br]

Originally Posted by Tin Soldier

Dude! You should have asked! I have a brand new Yota lexan here unpainted. I would have done $25. :-)

You know, I almost called you to see if you had something laying around. :(

[Tin Soldier]

Should have. I have been amassing stuff. :-) I just cleaned out the tire drawer and posted up a bunch of crawler tires on here. I have a milk crate full of go fast tires still. :-)

[Josh_Br]

The internal shock springs arrived Saturday, and the Yota body today. Sure is fun getting an RC4WD box delivered! I think the frame will come tomorrow, then hopefully I can tear into things soon. I've been doing some reading and youtube watching about LNC scalers. Seems like a common issue to work out is the skid plate.