brushed motor

[timber beast]

Looking for a motor upgrade on my LNC. Going to stay brushed so please no suggestions on a bl system. I have been looking at the titan 21t or the hh 27 turn. Pros cons of each of these or any other suggestions are welcome. Looking to spend 50 or less.

[ghtpdm5]

well, the titan is a sealed can throwaway, imo, good for brutal beatdowns and water because you can just have a spare in the parts box ready to roll if it pukes. you could pull the endbell plate to get the arm out to cut it, but its really like a turbo on a k-car. more trouble than its worth for a throwaway item.

the hh 27t is more expensive, but if you have a motor lathe and stock up on brushes, better money. run for a bit (until you feel there is something lacking from the first crank), lathe the comm, replace the brushes, and roll out with a more or less new motor.

the stock esc leaves a lot to be desired, i had to solder mine back together after about 10 hours. i would recommend upgrading this and going to smaller 3s batteries, and a smaller pinion at the same time or close if you can. hh has some great packages for scalers that would fit the bill, and the br-xl esc knows no competition as far as brushed esc's go. the tekin fxr is another good choice, smaller foot print and solder posts, but less robust than the br-xl. other things like the br-xl using castlelink for programming (if you're running over 200 oz steering servos, just put in a castle 10 amp bec and end it) and the tekin fxr uses the tekin hotwire. both provide awesome extra programming options like throttle and brake curves, lipo cutoff, start power, the list goes on.

another option would be a mamba max pro set in brushed mode. i've beaten my mmp to hell and it is still running strong. the internal bec sucks (dig servo or rx use only) and the fan went in the parts box about 10 minutes after mine came out of the box, but its a more future proof option.

[timber beast]

I have a br xl that's why I am going to stay brushed. If I get an upgraded servo with 200+ oz I would still need a bec? I thought the br xl had a better internal bec.

[ghtpdm5]

as far as internals, the br-xl has a great one. thing is as you go up in servo power, the more amp hungry they are. the castle 10 amp is the stick that all others are measured by, can program voltage and they're about as reliable as a hammer. i've blown one up, and that was mainly because it was 100 ambient and there is zero airflow where my bec is mounted, under the steering servo.

you also have to factor in surge current on the motor, this could effectively steal the power from the br-xl bec and brown out the system. with an external, you jump the esc to power the rx (provided it can handle the voltage) and steering servo. main thing is to put the esc red wire out of the plug if you do put one in, bad things can happen if you leave it and the external bec is plugged into the rx, not direct wired to the servo.

both motors you're considering can pull amps in a bind. a good external bec is cheap insurance to make sure you don't blow the ass out of the internal one on the esc.

[timber beast]

Thanks for the reply. Ended up going with the Holmes 27 turn. Really smooth motor compared to the stock. A little surprised with how hot it ran though.

[Olle P]

Originally Posted by timber beast

... A little surprised with how hot it ran though.

No surprises there.
1. It's a little less efficient, so at the same output mechanical power it should turn more electricity into heat.
2. It can provide more power, and thus will also create more heat.
3. It's got a little less torque, so you need to gear down a bit as well.

[timber beast]

Originally Posted by Olle P

No surprises there.
1. It's a little less efficient, so at the same output mechanical power it should turn more electricity into heat.
2. It can provide more power, and thus will also create more heat.
3. It's got a little less torque, so you need to gear down a bit as well.

Thanks for the info. I will gear down a little. Any suggestions on how low. I assume just a few down from the stock I'm running will work well.

[Olle P]

The standard pinion is 20T. Then I'd recommend 18T.

How I reach that ballpark number:
1. Difference in motor windings: 27/35 = 0.771 That's a 22.9% reduction.
2. The reduction in torque isn't that much, both because of the very nature of electric motors and further because it's a Holmes motor vs low quality, so I halve the difference to 11.4%. (The "half" is a rough "best guess" of mine.)
3. New pinion should thus be 88.6% of 20T = 17.7T, rounded to 18T.

The actual optimum is somewhere in the 16T to 19T span.

[braune]

Originally Posted by Olle P

0.771 That's a 22.9% reduction.

Just a short question... How did you calculate that?

[timber beast]

Originally Posted by braune

Just a short question... How did you calculate that?

He did 100-77.1=22.9

100 being 100 percent.

[timber beast]

Ollie thanks for all the info and opinions. It at least gives me a starting point to work from.

[braune]

Originally Posted by timber beast

He did 100-77.1=22.9

100 being 100 percent.

Thanks :thumbup: Now everything is clear ;)
Sent from my SONY Xperia Z using Tapatalk 2

[timber beast]

Went with an 18 tooth pinion and temps are staying pretty cool. Thanks.

[TOYOTAS]

Do your research and you find what you need! I love this forum everyone is so professional and helpful.

Are you still liking your 27t ? Working on a friends LCC and he wants it faster.

Anyone know if you can upgrade motor on stock ESC?