Designing and printing wheels

[Dragonfly]

I’ve decided to run 5.5 inch tall tires on my Gatekeeper kit. To get the wheel offset correct, I plan to design and 3D print wheels for the front until I get enough offset that they won’t rub the body. Then I’ll know what to buy when that time comes. Are there any pitfalls I need to be aware of before I start? It seems like a straightforward enough process in my head.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[islandlife]

Ive done a ton of printed wheel for the scx24 with great success, but never 1/10.
My advice would be to use a hex adaptor similar to vanquish or some amazon alloy wheels (6 bolt pattern). Trying to print a wheel that had the hex in it would strip the hex area in no time. Also, i would not even try pla. Petg at the very least.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by islandlife

Ive done a ton of printed wheel for the scx24 with great success, but never 1/10.
My advice would be to use a hex adaptor similar to vanquish or some amazon alloy wheels (6 bolt pattern). Trying to print a wheel that had the hex in it would strip the hex area in no time. Also, i would not even try pla. Petg at the very least.

I second this. Definitely not worth building a hex into the wheel unless it’s just a prototype and not planned to be used much/if at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dezertdirt]

I tried printing some glue on 2.2's that used vp hubs. I got a couple runs out of them before they broke. The face was too thin and fillets between the face and the inside of the wheel were too small. I might try it again when I get some time to redesign them.

[Dragonfly]

Thanks for the advice. I’m definitely thinking more along the lines of wheel prototypes so I know what to spend money on. I suppose if I printed them with the axle centerline parallel to the ground they might be a little stronger, but they’d look like hell. Anyway I’ll be bench testing fitment. From what I’ve seen on other threads, wheel width should be just enough to fit the foams to avoid the tire sidewall rolling over?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TITANIUM94010]

I've printed and used some wheels and parts for crawlers and some other cars, and have never had an issue with hex stripping issues. I've only broken them from hard crashes, and it was only the ones that looked really weak really sketchy design that broke. If you have a design that looks solid, you really shouldn't have a problem with the wheels breaking.

Granted, 5.5 inch tires are going to have a lot more leverage on the hex than a 4.19 and even a 4.75 tire, so results may very, but I don't see a reason to not try a 3d printed hex. I've used 3d printed hexes on metal wheels on a go fast rig, and they haven't broken either.

Here's a nice video from MakeitRC on how to make wheels on Fusion 360, if you don't know the program, its relatively easy to learn, free for personal use, and a nice skill to pick up especially if you're in to custom stuff. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDDptHaQz_0
The key to getting a nice and strong design is to try to reinforce/thicken the rear of the wheel where not as much is visible from the front, so you can preserve a look while keeping the wheel strong.

If it's only supposed to be a temporary fix, you could just find some files on yeggi.com or thingiverse for hex extensions, and they'll have essentially the same effect as a different offset wheel.

I print my wheels and most other parts with ASA, it's more impact resistant than PLA and easier to print than ABS. I think Nylon would be the optimal material, but it's a pita to print.


Edit: Looking at some of the replies, if the problem is the wheels being too narrow/wide that the tire sits incorrectly or rolls over, it's most likely due to a foam issue. Some harder foams or dual stage would help with that.

Longer hexes would have the same effect as running a wheel with a different offset, and it's much better to buy cheap injection molded or Amazon metal wheels if you're planning to drive it hard at all. Correctly designed and printed wheels may be strong, but there's still a chance of breakage. And breaking a wheel means having to reprint, possibly repaint, and reglue the entire wheel. Injection molded wheels and cheap metal ones pretty much have no chance breakage.

Hope this helps and good luck on your build!