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11-21-2005, 11:05 AM | #1 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Land of the Free, because of the Brave
Posts: 891
| filling holes in tubing... I've got one for the resident tuber experts... Let me start by saying that I'm WAY too lazy (short for inept... ) to build my own tuber, but I acquired a tube frame a while back through a trade. I had to chop off some extra tubing, and need to make new link attachment points/shock mounts. The original shock mounts were merely holes drilled through the tubing. I need to fill these holes up, but can't find a suitable way to do so. I've tried with my mig, but can't set it low enough (I just keep burning the hole bigger). I've tried solder, but it just falls in the hole and won't build up. I know that I could probably use body filler, but I want to get this thing chromed when it's finished (it's for my wife's "show crawler"... ...don't give me any chit), and I'm pretty sure that the chrome won't stick to the filler. Any suggestions? BTW, I can tig, but I've never tried on anything this thin, and I don't feel like screwing it up any more than it already is. Suggestions? -WRM |
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11-21-2005, 12:02 PM | #2 |
Dirt Addict Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Stumblin' thru the parking lot of an invisible 7-Eleven
Posts: 1,053
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Braze it. Jay |
11-21-2005, 12:11 PM | #3 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Land of the Free, because of the Brave
Posts: 891
| Quote:
Rich Seriously, it's been many moons since I've brazed anything, and the last time, it was a radiator that still leaked afterwards... Do I really need MAPP, or can I just use propane? Also, since I'm not joining any parts, do I still need the flux? I'll go to HD today and get whatever I need. -WRM | |
11-21-2005, 05:14 PM | #4 |
Colt Python/SR9c Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,626
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yes you still need it.. propane will not get hot enough and you will need flux also.. it is very simple to do.. clean around holes down to bare metal.. apply white flux, then heat.. heat until brazing rod starts to melt.. then its done ;) |
11-21-2005, 06:17 PM | #5 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 73
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So what type of torch do you need to braze.
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11-21-2005, 06:26 PM | #6 | |
Colt Python/SR9c Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,626
| Quote:
Brazing question | |
11-21-2005, 07:19 PM | #7 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Land of the Free, because of the Brave
Posts: 891
| Thanks Twisted and Jay, I'll give it a shot. I saw a MAPP kit the other day at HD, so I guess I'll pick it up tomorrow. I'm pretty sure they've got the right flux and rod too (I hope). I'll let you know how it turns out. -WRM |
11-22-2005, 06:30 AM | #8 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Lakewood
Posts: 93
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If the brazing doesnt work, how about trying JB Weld? That should work.
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11-22-2005, 10:51 AM | #9 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 73
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So I can use my propane torch execpt with a mapp bottle.
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11-22-2005, 02:50 PM | #10 |
RCC Addict Join Date: May 2005 Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 1,191
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Yes, the mapp is usually right next to the propane bottles at the store
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11-22-2005, 05:20 PM | #11 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Land of the Free, because of the Brave
Posts: 891
| Quote:
-WRM | |
11-22-2005, 06:44 PM | #12 | |
Colt Python/SR9c Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,626
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Rich, what Jay and myself use is not actual brazing rod.. it is a differnt type,like solder. I don't know much about actual brazing rod, but I tired the stuff HD sells and it takes to much to get hot. I was melting tubing before teh rod would even melt. and they have powder flux.. it is a paste type flux you need... but maybe you will have better luck than me with that stuff :? I use the saftey silv 45 brazing rod and the matching white flux.. i get mine at the local welding shop. you would only need 1 troy ounce of rod( about $15) and then the flux.. so about $25 probably. but that stuff is cake work Quote:
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11-22-2005, 08:30 PM | #13 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Land of the Free, because of the Brave
Posts: 891
| Thanks Twisted. I just remembered, we got a bunch of safety-silv at work, so I'll just pick some up there. Maybe they even have some rod laying around, who knows... They can just dig deeper into my paycheck like everyone else... -WRM |
11-26-2005, 08:52 AM | #14 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Land of the Free, because of the Brave
Posts: 891
| Well, I bought the oxy/mapp setup from HD, and it works really well. But, I go through WAY too much oxygen. After I'm finished with this one, I'll probably sell the setup and get the MAPP only torch. I've decided that it was just too much trouble to get this tuber modified how I wanted it. So, I decided to just build another one. For me, I've found that the actual brazing is the easy part. The hard part, is getting the tubing bent the way I want it. Some advice for people considering building a tuber: Get the MAPP only torch, you don't need oxygen. Buy an extra bottle of MAPP while you're there. (They've even got a setup w/two bottles on special right now for $39.95) Don't buy the coated (green) brake line from AutoZone. It seems to have a thinner wall, and likes to kink. You're also going to have to sand that coating off to braze it. Buy at least 5 - 4' sticks of tubing. After you ruin the first two or three, you should have enough left to build a tuber... The Harris 45 wire (1/16 or even 1/32) and the matching flux (stay-silv) is DEFINITELY the way to go. It's SO much easier to work with. I'll post pics when it's finished, hopefully by Monday... -WRM |
11-26-2005, 12:05 PM | #15 |
Colt Python/SR9c Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,626
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well you should take the tubing to bare metal no matter what.. i have used both styles, coated or not, and never had a problem with it.. glad you got the brazing down pat now.. told ya it was cake work |
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