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Thread: DE-anodizing without oven cleaner

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Old 10-11-2010, 01:12 PM   #21
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Just went and picked up some greased lighting and man this stuff works great even tho on the bottle its says not to use on aluminun bare or anodized. But its not ecthing the metal hit it with some 1000 grit sandpaper and alil elbow grease and some polishing compound. Looks like a whole new truck with out the axial green
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Old 10-11-2010, 07:33 PM   #22
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Default Good Stuff.

Great tip!! I used the Greased Lightning today(under $4 at Home Depot) and it worked great. One of the 4 rings I soaked took an extra 10 min but a rub with a paper towel was all they needed after about 30 min.

I was also pointed to a product by Dupli-Color called Metal Cast that is a spray on that gives a nice anodized look if you are looking to change colors.
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Old 10-11-2010, 10:40 PM   #23
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I used polished aluminum wheel cleaner one time on something anodized and It works too...... real well
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Old 10-12-2010, 01:43 AM   #24
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Thanks for the tip
I will use this to clean my green links to
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Old 10-12-2010, 05:17 PM   #25
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Guys all you need to buy is some caustic soda powder. Put a table spoon of it in some warm water and dip the parts you want to strip for a few seconds. Remember to wear gloves.

You can easily polish the parts with Tcut if required.

If you leave the parts in for too long the aluminum will turn black.

Last edited by Katan; 10-12-2010 at 05:20 PM.
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Old 10-12-2010, 06:04 PM   #26
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Funny thing, I thought greased lightning was oven cleaner ( I'd include oven trays in that.. )?

We've only got lame foam oven cleaner in the UK, very hard to get hold of decently strong chemicals that will do the job...
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Old 10-12-2010, 09:44 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suicideneil View Post
Funny thing, I thought greased lightning was oven cleaner ( I'd include oven trays in that.. )?

We've only got lame foam oven cleaner in the UK, very hard to get hold of decently strong chemicals that will do the job...
Neil, what the hell are you here for. arent you a speed freak?
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Old 10-13-2010, 08:40 AM   #28
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I think I'd prefer using something that took 30 minutes over something that only took a few seconds.

First of all, how caustic is something that it can remove anodizing in just a few seconds?

Second, with the longer process your margin of error is a bit greater. I've read a lot of stories of how people have left their parts in oven cleaner for just a bit too long and it ruins the part.
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Old 10-13-2010, 09:57 AM   #29
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Or if you guys are like me and like the brushed look go in your tool rooms and chuck up a wire wheel and have some fun lil time consuming but it gets the job done!
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Old 10-13-2010, 11:57 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by team3six View Post
OK, so here is the latest dilemma, what kind of Greased Lightning do I get?
use the commerical grade works better..
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Old 10-22-2010, 09:06 PM   #31
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Appreciate the heads up on the greased lightning. The oven cleaner about kills me every-time i have used it. Tis is much nicer..thank you

Reb
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Old 10-23-2010, 12:03 AM   #32
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Use 100% lye (drain-o, etc.), it will remove the ano without destroying the substrate material. Just keep a close eye on the process and everything will work nicely. I usually hang the part I want to de-ano on a plastic cable tie and dip the part into the mixed solution. When the part is done I would neutralize it with a baking soda wash/soak. Light hand polishing is all needed to be done.
Needs to be 100% lye (crystal form). Oven cleaner has other chemicals that will cause pitting.
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Old 10-23-2010, 08:14 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by team3six View Post
OK, so here is the latest dilemma, what kind of Greased Lightning do I get?
http://forums.thetoyz.com/index.php?showtopic=2539
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Old 10-23-2010, 09:29 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RusT808 View Post
Use 100% lye (drain-o, etc.), it will remove the ano without destroying the substrate material. Just keep a close eye on the process and everything will work nicely. I usually hang the part I want to de-ano on a plastic cable tie and dip the part into the mixed solution. When the part is done I would neutralize it with a baking soda wash/soak. Light hand polishing is all needed to be done.
Needs to be 100% lye (crystal form). Oven cleaner has other chemicals that will cause pitting.
100% Lye really isn't a practical use. I would have to say though it works I am sure. it still is a bit dangerous

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Already picked it up at Home Depot. Havent tried it as of yet, just been a bit too busy. Cant wait to get rid of the Axial green
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Old 10-28-2010, 11:28 AM   #35
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Thanks for the tips and tricks, I've never heard of any of this till now. Sounds like it all works pretty good.
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Old 11-02-2010, 10:27 PM   #36
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Acetone works too. Also works great for removing powder coating. I completely stripped a powder coated and annoed paintball marker in less then an hour using the stuff.
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Old 11-03-2010, 12:39 AM   #37
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Great caution does need to be practiced when using 100% lye. Here's a good example on how to.
http://bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=110989
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Old 11-03-2010, 08:05 AM   #38
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greased lightning(or purple power) also removes chrome off tamiya plastic parts. leaving smooth shiny plastic unaffected
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Old 11-03-2010, 11:34 AM   #39
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i dont know about greased lightning, but i got a wicked chemical burn from the old castrol super clean stuff. but then again, i had my hands in it for quite awhile stripping a rattle-canned black rc10 with a vegetable brush.

so like, whatever you use, be carefull...
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Old 11-03-2010, 04:53 PM   #40
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my buddy just did this to his XR10 rings. It works great

The other successful product we used was Rogo. It's a diluted sulfuric acid formula for drains that is available at your local plumbing supply.

Unless you are 100% comfortable with working with acid, stay away from the rogo
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