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12-10-2009, 03:34 PM | #1 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Golden
Posts: 2,588
| Brake Line Inside Diameter
I couldn't find what the inside diameter of 3/16" brakeline is... Anyone know? Thanks! |
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12-10-2009, 09:26 PM | #2 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Lancaster
Posts: 120
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Arent tubing and pipes measured already in ID? OD Is what changes because of thickness of walls by manufacturer. I think... |
12-10-2009, 09:55 PM | #3 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Unnecessary Surgery Land
Posts: 3,406
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1/8"
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12-10-2009, 10:44 PM | #4 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Golden
Posts: 2,588
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is 1/8th an estimate or exact? I've seen 3/16 tubing with either .118 or .132 ID's, that's why I ask. They weren't brake line though. I would want to tap the inside so I can attach the roll bar to the bed... Anyone with a caliper or micrometer that can check actual ID? |
12-10-2009, 10:48 PM | #5 |
Built, not bought Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Gresham
Posts: 4,504
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The brake line I have sitting here is .118" i.d. |
12-11-2009, 12:45 AM | #6 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Golden
Posts: 2,588
| that's the answer I was looking for. that would mean I should be able to tap an M3 thread into it, so it will work well.Again, thanks. Last edited by monkeyracer; 12-11-2009 at 12:48 AM. |
12-11-2009, 08:49 AM | #7 | |
No idea what I'm doing Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Underground, CO
Posts: 4,529
| I just got out my gauge pins and the piece I have is .130", so I'd say it varies. Never thought of brake line as very precise though. Quote:
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12-11-2009, 09:53 AM | #8 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Golden
Posts: 2,588
| Quote:
3mm = .118" (3mm/25.4mm) So you're right, that's the minimum clearance hole for an M3 thread, I forgot that... I guess I can take an M3 and an M4 bolt with me and size it up to the brake line when I go and get it... I'm doing something similar to your PSC jeep, and designing it to be bolted together rather than brazed. I don't have any brazing equipment at all, so for the simple roll cage and roof bar, this should work. Later when I get the brazing stuff, I can make something a little more crazy... Thanks for the help guys! | |
12-11-2009, 10:10 AM | #9 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: SO CAL
Posts: 579
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yea M3 will fall right in, I just brazed a nut on the end and ground it down
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12-11-2009, 10:38 AM | #10 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Golden
Posts: 2,588
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12-11-2009, 10:55 AM | #11 |
No idea what I'm doing Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Underground, CO
Posts: 4,529
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12-11-2009, 11:11 AM | #12 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Peoria, Arizona
Posts: 919
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You can also let some brazing silver wick into the brake line and then drill and tap the brazing silver with a 3mm tap. it may not be as tough as steel, but its better than nothing.
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12-11-2009, 11:20 AM | #13 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Golden
Posts: 2,588
| Just planning on a simple tube front bumper with brush guard, simple sliders, rear tube bumper removeable roof rack with light bar, and roll bar for the bed. Not looking to make a full interior cage (yet) or EXO or anything... It's a race-truck turned trail truck... here's the current build thread: 2.2 Widebody Crew Cab Chevy K1500 Build - Lots of Pics! I'll probably make it to brad's alley this sunday for the comp/gtg so you can see in person what I am planning. I've got an M4 tap, so I'll just use that, no brazing... |
12-11-2009, 11:59 PM | #14 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Wayne county. PA
Posts: 2,507
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i use 3m screws to run through 3/16" brakeline....brakeline is measured in O.D....so 3/16" brakeline is 3/16"....i tap 3/16" with 6-32 threads and a 1/8" drill bit is loose inside 3/16" too...............bob .... |
12-12-2009, 07:16 AM | #15 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Golden
Posts: 2,588
| Quote:
I wanted to know the ID so I could tap a good thread into it, and be able to secure it to the frame/body. I've got M3, M4, 6-32, and 4-40 taps (pretty much the only taps a scale builder would need) One of those threads will be perfect for it, whether it's M4 or 6-32, I'll find out probably later today. According to a tap drill chart I found, a 6-32 tap drill hole should be a #36 bit, which is .1065 and for a M4-.7 tap drill hole, it should be .130. I can try and post up my findings on which tap I end up using. I picked up some brakeline from Checker Auto Parts, and a bender and 3/16" file from harbor freight. I've heard good things about this bender here: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94571 And it was pretty inexpensive, so I picked that one up. Tested on some scrap tubing and it works really well. I'll have to get used to how to measure for the bend though. Last edited by monkeyracer; 12-12-2009 at 07:19 AM. | |
12-14-2009, 04:38 PM | #16 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: i think its called houston
Posts: 224
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i have tapped all my 3/16" brake line with 6-32 and its dead nuts on. Easy to tap and a 3' threaded 6-32 rod is cheap other than that, i have nothing to add |
12-16-2009, 07:27 PM | #17 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Appleton, Wi
Posts: 660
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I treaded a long stainless screw through a 3mm nut and slid the screw in the tube for a guide to keep the nut aligned straight and I just brazed the nut onto the end of the tubing. It worked perfect and you can hardly tell. |
12-16-2009, 07:32 PM | #18 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Golden
Posts: 2,588
| Quote:
I ended up tapping the M4x0.7 thread in and it worked great. I could try a 6-32 as well, though. I decided to allow a local guy (R2J Kustoms) do the welding (yes, welding, not just brazing) work for me since he's experienced and has the equipment. That won't be until January though, at least. | |
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