RCCrawler Forums

93 FORD BRONCO · 07-02-2010, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Code454

cheap

good enuf for me .

transambill · 07-02-2010, 11:50 PM

Dont forget to sand the coating off the brake line before you braze/solder unless you can find the bare stuff and stainless is more $ but IMO worth it and when useing stainless be sure to wear a mask. Stainless puts off toxic fumes when you heat it.

Rat1 · 07-03-2010, 08:14 AM

Search online for local welding supply stores. Most larger towns have them and they can supply you with all your needs.

Silver Soldering is very easy and in my opinion stronger then simple brazing and you get a much cleaner joint. I personally use a benzomatic map/oxy setup. I just made some modifications to use the larger oxy tanks. I use Harris Safety Silv 56 and flux for all my needs. The little pencil tip flame on my hobby torch is great as it puts the heat right were I need it and does not heat up the whole peice. There is little to no clean up required if done correctly.

As far as the little throw away Oxy bottles. I get enough in one bottle to build for quite a while. You don't need much of a flame to do most of the work so you are using very little oxy.

eric113 · 07-03-2010, 09:37 AM

http://store.cyberweld.com/smithequipment.html

yellowallison · 07-20-2010, 02:56 PM

great info

mikef350 · 07-26-2010, 11:44 AM

hmm good thread,it has answear'd a few questions i had

irishgunslinger1 · 08-06-2010, 11:58 PM

u can find most silver soldering and brazing supplies at any hvac supply store... harrris makes the best products.. i personally use harris 15.. one easy way to control silver when its flowing is to just use the heat source. the solder will follow the heat.. try it some time on a clean piece of copper tube...

also beware of fumes.. especially the fumes put off by the silver flux... its caustic...

and DO NOT use regular lead free solder flux for silver soldering , although it will work for copper tube and sheet , it will not work for steel

Tommy R · 10-07-2010, 09:48 AM

I've been using a Benzomatic MAPP torch setup from Lowe's. It's served me pretty well, but I would like a more concentrated flame. Smith's "The Little Torch" looks like a great setup except for the fact that I assume it would need bottles, regulators, etc. Then it's up to the price of a real oxy/acetylene rig that I could also use for 1:1 projects. I have a hard time spending that kind of money for a tool I'll only use for RC stuff. So......

If I bought a standard, fullsize oxy/acetylene rig, what would I need in the way of small tips, etc. in order to be able to use the full size bottles/regulators for brazing. Tim, is this what you use?

Thanks,
Tommy

transambill · 10-08-2010, 12:23 AM

My Smith torch with regulators cost me $300 and thats cheep compared to some of my tools. Then my tanks cost me $8 and $14 when I swap them out for full ones.

War Pig · 10-08-2010, 12:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tommy R

If I bought a standard, fullsize oxy/acetylene rig, what would I need in the way of small tips, etc. in order to be able to use the full size bottles/regulators for brazing. Tim, is this what you use?

Oxy/acetylene with Victor Firepower regulators, 25 foot hose, Victor handle with a 00 brazing tip.

Tommy R · 10-08-2010, 07:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by War Pig

Oxy/acetylene with Victor Firepower regulators, 25 foot hose, Victor handle with a 00 brazing tip.

Thanks, Tim! I hated the thought of chunking out several hundred dollars for something I could only use for light duty (RC) brazing. Now I finally have the incentive to get an oxy rig...

Big Mike · 10-08-2010, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by War Pig

Oxy/acetylene with Victor Firepower regulators, 25 foot hose, Victor handle with a 00 brazing tip.

If you're going to invest in something, you might as well make it as useful as possible. That is the same setup I use, and in addition to making 1:10th scale tube work as fast and easy as possible, you'll find a lot more uses for it outside of your RC workshop. Most Victor kits come with an array of tips from a 00 up to a cutting tip.

The method vs. material discussion is a dillemma. Yes, coated rod is very cheap, but it's almost impossible to work without an expensive Oxy/Acetelyne rig. Harris Safety Silv is pretty expensive stuff (but fully worth every penny IMO) but you can work it with a $12 dollar MAPP head and disposable bottles from Lowes. Go figure...

08-06-2010, 11:58 PM	#47
irishgunslinger1 Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: wnc Posts: 80	u can find most silver soldering and brazing supplies at any hvac supply store... harrris makes the best products.. i personally use harris 15.. one easy way to control silver when its flowing is to just use the heat source. the solder will follow the heat.. try it some time on a clean piece of copper tube... also beware of fumes.. especially the fumes put off by the silver flux... its caustic... and DO NOT use regular lead free solder flux for silver soldering , although it will work for copper tube and sheet , it will not work for steel Last edited by irishgunslinger1; 08-07-2010 at 12:00 AM.

07-02-2010, 11:50 PM	#42
transambill Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Commiskey Posts: 585	Dont forget to sand the coating off the brake line before you braze/solder unless you can find the bare stuff and stainless is more $ but IMO worth it and when useing stainless be sure to wear a mask. Stainless puts off toxic fumes when you heat it.

07-03-2010, 08:14 AM	#43
Rat1 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Rats nest Grafton ND Posts: 381	Search online for local welding supply stores. Most larger towns have them and they can supply you with all your needs. Silver Soldering is very easy and in my opinion stronger then simple brazing and you get a much cleaner joint. I personally use a benzomatic map/oxy setup. I just made some modifications to use the larger oxy tanks. I use Harris Safety Silv 56 and flux for all my needs. The little pencil tip flame on my hobby torch is great as it puts the heat right were I need it and does not heat up the whole peice. There is little to no clean up required if done correctly. As far as the little throw away Oxy bottles. I get enough in one bottle to build for quite a while. You don't need much of a flame to do most of the work so you are using very little oxy.

07-03-2010, 09:37 AM	#44
eric113 Moderator Rule Breaker Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Austin, Tx Posts: 5,970	http://store.cyberweld.com/smithequipment.html

07-20-2010, 02:56 PM	#45
yellowallison Newbie Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: jacksonville Posts: 32	great info

07-26-2010, 11:44 AM	#46
mikef350 Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: lincolnshire,uk Posts: 52	hmm good thread,it has answear'd a few questions i had

10-07-2010, 09:48 AM	#48
Tommy R I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Austin, TX, USA Posts: 4,273	I've been using a Benzomatic MAPP torch setup from Lowe's. It's served me pretty well, but I would like a more concentrated flame. Smith's "The Little Torch" looks like a great setup except for the fact that I assume it would need bottles, regulators, etc. Then it's up to the price of a real oxy/acetylene rig that I could also use for 1:1 projects. I have a hard time spending that kind of money for a tool I'll only use for RC stuff. So...... If I bought a standard, fullsize oxy/acetylene rig, what would I need in the way of small tips, etc. in order to be able to use the full size bottles/regulators for brazing. Tim, is this what you use? Thanks, Tommy

10-08-2010, 12:23 AM	#49
transambill Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Commiskey Posts: 585	My Smith torch with regulators cost me $300 and thats cheep compared to some of my tools. Then my tanks cost me $8 and $14 when I swap them out for full ones.

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