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02-20-2006, 06:44 PM
| #1 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: East Bay, CA
Posts: 79
|  Allumilloy?
Ok, I was sitting on the couch eating a frozen twinkie, and this infomercial comes on today. It's about this stuff called Allumilloy. It resembles stick sauter, but by heating up the base metal on aluminum joints or tears or even holes in aluminum, you can connect joints and bridge gaps. It can span half inch gaps and is stonger than the aluminum itself once cooled. It doesn't use flux, and you can use a MAPP torch because of the low temperatures required. (only 720 degrees...) Has anyone ever seen this? I want to know if it's worth it for 45 bucks a pound... If any of you adventerous types want to try some, the number is 1 800 917 WELD. This stuff could open up the posibility of building tubers with aluminum rod or tube... On the commercial they showed a TRANNY CASE being fixed, and like a 2 inch gap being filled just be being a little creative. It looks like impressive stuff, but I don't know about trusting infomercials... Someone give it a try so I don't have to.  |
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02-20-2006, 06:52 PM
| #2 |
| I wanna be Dave  Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Happiness is a warm AK.
Posts: 12,563
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More info here!  http://www.aluminumrepair.com/ Less than $20.00 on e-bay!  http://cgi.ebay.com/ALUMINUM-Repair-...QQcmdZViewItem Last edited by dezfan; 02-20-2006 at 06:55 PM. |
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02-20-2006, 07:09 PM
| #3 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Cincinnati Ohio
Posts: 1,673
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02-20-2006, 07:32 PM
| #4 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: VARCOR
Posts: 1,826
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You will often see the exact same product sold under the name "ULTRAFUSE" at big flea markets, craft shows, car/truck shows, and gun shows. I had passed the same dude selling it at my local gun shows on numerous occassions, then during the last show, I made a point to pass him several times and watch his experiments. Call me a sucker, but I was very impressed with his presentation!!! Most of the sellers do presentation with aluminum cans, and if you catch it, it is impressive.............but this guy took it a step further, and would puncture aluminum heater cores/radiators, then pressurize them to several hundred pounds to prove his point. I was sold, and with "his deal of the day," I walked away with 30 rods for somewhere around $25-$30. BUT, I have yet to try the stuff out on my own, so I have no personal experience other than what I have seen of it. |
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02-20-2006, 08:51 PM
| #5 | |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Saginaw
Posts: 1,721
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I think the big question is, why were you eating a frozen twinkie? :? :-P Quote:
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02-20-2006, 10:10 PM
| #6 | |
| I wanna be Dave  Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Vegas
Posts: 7,172
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02-20-2006, 10:36 PM
| #7 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: East Bay, CA
Posts: 79
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Hey, the outside gets firm and the inside turns to ice cream stuff. Ok, the truth is I was REALLY hungry and I was looking in the freezer for some blueberry waffles, and I found a frozen twinkie. Shut up. Anyways, I'm glad that someone else knows about this stuff. I have tons of aluminum rod, and I hate brazing. Tuber here I come. |
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02-23-2006, 01:44 AM
| #8 |
| Nope..   Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Whiteland, Indiana
Posts: 1,849
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I've seen this stuff. The guy gashed the hell out of an aluminum can and then "welded" it right back up and made it water tight. Then he welded bent cans together and all sorts of stuff. I just remembered this stuff while I was reading this. I wanted to do an aluminum tuber, but TIGing just doesn't look fun to learn and purchase and I don't wanna pay for it either.
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02-23-2006, 03:05 PM
| #9 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 440
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Ok. This perked my curiosity. Where can you buy a few rods of this stuff? I'll re-read through this thread and see if I can find the name to search ebay. Second. Aluminum for the chassis. Solid or tube? I have 3/16" aluminum tube for sleeving links at home, but the walls are basically paper thin; and would NOT hold up to a decent rollover. Where would one go to find thcker wall tube that size? I'm not opposed to trying this out, I just don't know where to go for the stuff. I'll be the guinea pig if y'all help me out... |
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02-23-2006, 03:07 PM
| #10 |
| Adilynsdad too!   Join Date: May 2004 Location: G ville
Posts: 8,844
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[QUOTE=armedtotheteeth]Hey, the outside gets firm and the inside turns to ice cream stuff. It would be so easy for me to run with this. |
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02-23-2006, 03:17 PM
| #11 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Happiness is a warm AK.
Posts: 12,563
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02-23-2006, 03:31 PM
| #12 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 440
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After looking at McMaster, there are quite the choices for aluminum tubing, even 6061. BUT, looking at the wall thickness, I'm not impressed. I think that a good tumble down a few rocks would buckle the tube. Granted you could really beef up a cage with braces and still be lighter than a lean steel cage, but I don't know how many rolls the chassis could take before the chassis buckles. I think rod is a better avenue to explore. I'll report back in a few. OK. McMaster has 3/16" Aluminum rod. Check P/N#8974K29. $3.70/6'. They have up to 7075, but that's like $30.32/6'. I think I'd just go with the cheap stuff for the beginning. Then when I'm getting HULK's envy, I'll use the 7075. I'm curious though. What is the weight per foot of 3/16" aluminum rod versus 3/16" brakeline? Can someone find it faster than me? Last edited by rerock; 02-23-2006 at 03:48 PM. Reason: update | |
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02-23-2006, 08:17 PM
| #13 |
| Newbie  Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Cut -N- Shoot, Texas
Posts: 36
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Back in the day when I was making aluminum frames for Clodbusters I tried some of these rods you guys speak of to join the pieces of aluminum together instead of nuts and bolts. I could never get it to work right. I just ended up with a mess. I have a tig welder(miller syncrowave 180sd) and I still would not try to do an aluminum tube or rod frame. I'm pretty good at welding plate aluminum that is 1/8in thick but tube and rod I haven't tried. I'm sure I could tack rod or tube together with the tig but getting a bead all the way around it without melting it would be very hard because of how thin it is. The thing with aluminum is, it heats up really fast and it doesn't glow like steel, it turns a real shiny chrome like color when melting so you have to be very carful with how much heat you're applying or it will melt and fall apart. Also aluminum builds an oxide layer a few thousandths thick from just sitting, so you have to clean it with a stainless steel brush and get the oxide layer off. This oxide layer melts at a much higher temp than the aluminum. So if you don't clean it off you'll be melting the aluminum under the oxide layer and it won't weld right. Sorry this is so long, I just wanted to give you guys some pointers on this and what I have learned with welding/joining aluminum together. If you try these infomercial rods just get a couple to practice with before you spend a lot of money on them.
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02-24-2006, 12:05 PM
| #14 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 440
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I'm gonna order a couple 6' sticks of that 3/16" aluminum rod from McMaster, and a few brazing rods form ebay and play around a bit. I just don't know how much of a weight savings it will be going from hollow brake line to solid aluminum. and depending how how stout the rod is, I might need to add some of that "triangulation" stuff to beef the chassis against warping/bending on roll overs.
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06-03-2006, 01:13 PM
| #15 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: VARCOR
Posts: 1,826
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Finally got around to playing with some of this stuff this morning. For me, it is officially worthless! Of course, there could be a dozen reasons why I can't get it to work, but I have experimented with it every way I can and it won't hold. Look at the left "well" in this pic. You can see that the rod was hot enough to flow, but it never "melded" to the aluminum in any real way. It, like 90% of my other experimenting joints, would hold, but I could break them apart with my hands. |
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06-04-2006, 01:05 AM
| #16 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Saginaw
Posts: 1,721
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Did you scuff up the mating surfaces well, and get the area to be joined hot enough? I've never worked with this stuff before so I'm not sure, just some suggestions.
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06-04-2006, 01:32 AM
| #17 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: glastonbury
Posts: 992
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one of the big things with aluminum is preheat, if you heat the whole thing or a large area its easier to weld to it because the heat doesn "run away" the only pisser is that it makes the whole piece a real pain to move especially if you hate tig with gloves on... as far as brazing the same should apply. try to evenly heat the area and not the rod as soon as the area has gotten to a reasonable temp add the rod. ive never done this but i think it should work... who knows!
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06-04-2006, 02:05 AM
| #18 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2005 Location: omaha
Posts: 858
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I have and use a self fluxing aluminum rod that works O.K., but gas welding aluminum is quite easy. I use my brazing torch to weld aluminum. Go to a Linweld and pick up some flux coated welding rod, part number 4021. Since aluminum melts at about 1100 degrees oxi/mapp setup will do fine. You can start welding aluminum for around $100.00, give it a shot  |
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06-07-2006, 06:08 PM
| #19 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 355
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The only way this stuff sticks is if you melt the mating surfaces and the braze. I tried it with the oxy then the mapp and the only way it even hold worth a damn is melting everything. Hence the ugliest joint you can possibly make and a completely unpresentable project. If you're down with bootyfab and don't feel like using screws go for it.
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06-07-2006, 08:57 PM
| #20 | |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: VARCOR
Posts: 1,826
| Quote:
I experimented with varying degrees of roughing up the material, from clean and pretty smooth to clean and very rough. I definately got the material hot enough, and in many cases, too hot. The rod melts at about 730*, whereas the material (as pointed out) melts at 1100*. When using this stuff, I am never directly heating the rod, so the material has to be hot enough to transfer at least 730* to the rod, to get it flowing. Everytime that I got the rod to flow nicely, I was really playing on the verge of melting the base aluminum. I may come up with a way to make this stuff work, but I doubt my patience will allow me to work with it that much. I have some WELCO 52 rod and [Harris] AL-Braze 1070 on order, and I will see how they do. If no luck with them, I will look into an aluminum welding setup. I am bound to build my ladder frame out of aluminum!!!!!! | |
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