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Thread: Tig Welded Aluminun Cage ???

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Old 03-18-2006, 02:39 PM   #1
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Default Tig Welded Aluminun Cage ???

Im getting ready to start my fusion Rock buggy Project.. going to be using 3/16's SOLID rod.. Steel seems like it would be a heavy finished project..
So im thinking about using Aluminum rod (plus aluminum was cheaper when i looked for prices) i have a guy who could TIG weld the whole thing together for me..
My question is how strong will it be ?? should i stick with steel and braze it together? or would a tig welded frame be just as strong or stronger ??
and if i do go TIG'd Aluminum can i just tack it together with a MIG to hold it til he welds it complete ?


I'm aiming for a finished project like this Project: Fusion-X
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Old 03-18-2006, 02:41 PM   #2
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You cant tack weld aluminum with a mig. At least i dont think you can. A mig is made for welding steel and other metals liek that. Not aluminum.
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Old 03-18-2006, 02:46 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyK
You cant tack weld aluminum with a mig. At least i dont think you can. A mig is made for welding steel and other metals liek that. Not aluminum.
I've done it with bigger stuff before all the time.. never had a problem.. But i duno about small stuff like 3/16ths rod..
and if you set it up right u can weld aluminum with a MIG
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Old 03-18-2006, 02:48 PM   #4
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Oh ok. Then whyd you ask? I never knew u can weld aluminum with a mig.
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Old 03-18-2006, 02:48 PM   #5
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there is no reason you couldnt use a mig to tack it together provided it is set up properly. it may not be the best process but yes it is doable. a 120 mig setup with the proper gas, polarity spool gun and practice would be just fine for AL.

welders are not made for specific alloys. rather they get set up according to what you are welding at what size.
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Old 03-18-2006, 10:30 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyK
Oh ok. Then whyd you ask? I never knew u can weld aluminum with a mig.
I asked cause im unsure about the small stuff..
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Old 03-18-2006, 10:40 PM   #7
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What do you see as the advantage of solid 3/16" alum rod over, say, 3/16" steel tube?



3/16" brake line is cheap and easy to braze.....................why go to tig'ing aluminum?
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Old 03-18-2006, 10:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robb
What do you see as the advantage of solid 3/16" alum rod over, say, 3/16" steel tube?



3/16" brake line is cheap and easy to braze.....................why go to tig'ing aluminum?
Cause it'll impress the high school girls more :-P
Seriously.. i wana go with solid for strength.. I work in the automotive field so i use brake line VERY often.. I just dont see the strength i want in that stuff.. Seems solid rod will hold up to my abuse better
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Old 03-18-2006, 11:09 PM   #9
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I made a cage up out of disguarded shopping trolley,(pic 1) stainless, it weighed a S#*T load, but it was really strong. Then found the world of brake line, I braised one and bolted on some alloy plates, see pic 2. This thing has taken an absolute beating and is still holding. If its strenght you are after it all comes down to how you brace it. IMO. Anyway go nuts, if you do it don't forget pics.

pic 1
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=75059

pic 2
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=75060
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Old 03-18-2006, 11:13 PM   #10
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Do you work with 3/16" aluminum rod much?



You can build your rig as you want to, but between 3/16 brakeline and 3/16 aluminum rod, I will take the brakeline any day (just for the brazing simplicity). With that said, with my own home tube/rod bending tests................the rod may be a little stronger than the brakeline given a good amount of length, so when length is required, rod will definately be stronger in regards to long. forces placed upon it. IE, for susp links I would choose rod over tube any and every day. BUT, since tube/rod used in building frames, the total lengths in individual pieces is usually so short, that long. forces against the material become almost non-existant. Most brakeline tuber chassis built can easily withstand the builder standing on them without screwing them up, which is more than a test than they will see on the rocks.
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Old 03-19-2006, 01:48 AM   #11
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Hmmm... i guess ill go check the price on brake line tomarow... i just install it.. i never have to worry about prices lol
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Old 03-19-2006, 07:41 AM   #12
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If you really wanna go beefy, you can always use 4130 tubing from McMaster...
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Old 03-19-2006, 08:44 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddinguy
Hmmm... i guess ill go check the price on brake line tomarow... i just install it.. i never have to worry about prices lol
It should be arround $6 out the door for a 5' piece....

I was actualy amased at how strong everything is once safty-silv'ed together....

FWIW unless this person has experience tig welding SMALL aluminum parts you may end up with a big mess....I've done my share of tiging alum and there is no way I'd attempt doing a aluminum tuber sounds like a PITA , but then again I don't have much experience with small parts....
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Old 03-19-2006, 07:55 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhoffroad
It should be arround $6 out the door for a 5' piece....

I was actualy amased at how strong everything is once safty-silv'ed together....

FWIW unless this person has experience tig welding SMALL aluminum parts you may end up with a big mess....I've done my share of tiging alum and there is no way I'd attempt doing a aluminum tuber sounds like a PITA , but then again I don't have much experience with small parts....
He's a good friend of mine here at college going for a degree in Welding Engineering.. He's one of the best welders i've seen..
I was planning on using Flux coated coper Brazing rod if i went the steel way, I can not find that saftey silver stuff for the life of me ANYWHERE !
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Old 03-19-2006, 08:58 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kortam
there is no reason you couldnt use a mig to tack it together provided it is set up properly. it may not be the best process but yes it is doable. a 120 mig setup with the proper gas, polarity spool gun and practice would be just fine for AL.

welders are not made for specific alloys. rather they get set up according to what you are welding at what size.
while the welders may not be diff,the wire and gas used for tig is diff then the mig.you'll be putting a spot of steel on the alum joint.then you will want that spot to look clean.try to sand or file it off will not be so easy as the alum will sand off first.
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Old 03-19-2006, 09:00 PM   #16
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dude the safty silv is much nicer I've used both and the brazing rod sucks compared to the safty silv..... ramweldingsupply.com has it online.....
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Old 03-19-2006, 09:04 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPEED_RACER
while the welders may not be diff,the wire and gas used for tig is diff then the mig.you'll be putting a spot of steel on the alum joint.then you will want that spot to look clean.try to sand or file it off will not be so easy as the alum will sand off first.
what the hell did you just say ???? did you say you could tack alum with steel mig wire ????
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Old 03-19-2006, 10:33 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhoffroad
dude the safty silv is much nicer I've used both and the brazing rod sucks compared to the safty silv..... ramweldingsupply.com has it online.....
I must be a total idiot then cause i can not find the stuff on there.. i searched the site too..
what flux do u use with that stuff ?? and do u use a Mapp gas torch ?
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Old 03-19-2006, 10:57 PM   #19
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here you go

https://secure.ramweldingsupply.com/...ew.mcic?s=1423

and the flux

https://secure.ramweldingsupply.com/...ew.mcic?s=1544

yea just mapp works fine....
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Old 03-19-2006, 11:45 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhoffroad
SWEET !!
Thank you sooo much

Damn the shipping on that stuff will kill you.. does Homedepot carry this stuff ??
i couldnt find it at lowes...
Id rather save the 10 bux and just go to the store..
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