Try a set using 8-32 stainless all thread, and 1/4" stainless tubing....the K&S stuff you find at hobby stores and hardware stores.

The plated all-thread isn't the greatest, so I only use stainless. It's a bit more expensive but worth it.

Whatever you use, don't make 'em weird :):

http://i359.photobucket.com/albums/o...setuppers6.jpg
http://i359.photobucket.com/albums/o...ffsetlink1.jpg

I love the upper links in the top picture. I've been thinking about doing that with my front lowers for some time now. Did you have any issues with the link rotating on itself?

Can you explain what is going on in the second picture, I can't make it out. "thumbsup"

I wouldn't try it with lower links, too many hangup points. Better to bend them for clearance. Yes, there was some rotation, but it didn't matter for the uppers.

The lowers on the bottom rig was a joke post, to gain link clearance behind the chassis. Going forward would be OK, but reversing would be the hangup point. There is a chunk of aluminium mounting the rodend to the link at a 90 degree angle. I think with a shallower angle, maybe 25-30 degrees, that might work better.

Do you guys use a special tap for Ti i wanted to build some 3/16 links but didnt want to buy anything with out knowing first

thats a good question. id assume the steel bits would get chewed up. any info guys?

What if you use 3/16 steel brake lines would they be stronger?

Do you guys have a part number from mcmaster carr? I see they have different types. I'll keep checking in for I need to order asap."thumbsup"

picked up revo ends, just need the rod now!

do you mean 1/4 stainless or 3/16 stainless? for use with revo part#5347 and 8/32 all thread?

i picked up some 3/16 steel rod, and have the tap set. tonight im going to try making a few links.

I use 1/4" Stainless tubing. You can use the Revos that you listed, but I prefer Jato rod ends. They have more thread engagement, although I haven't had a Revo fail either. The only problem with the Jato pack is there are 4 oddball sized ball joints in the pack.

Just thought i'd add that those 4 odd sized balls work great for upper shock mounts, throw a washer on the smaller side of the ball so it can't pull through the cap. Works great for shocks that use the metal caps where they can't use normal sized balls - like aluminum traxxas big bores. If that makes any sense :ror:

I've been building mine out of Delrin from Rcbros. Easy to work with and plenty strong. I use the hollow 1/4 rod for uppers. Comp guys will argue that it flexes too much. For a basher, it is great. The rods flex instead of breaking other parts. I'm currently testing them on my Clod racer. We'll see how that goes.

Made my first link.

3/16th rod, revo ends. tapped 10/24 thread. kept the plastic drag link as a fail point for my $100 servo.

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...t/c374e3a6.jpg

Anyone ever used 10mm solid alloy rod with holes drilled and tapped in each end to take a thread for rod ends?

Thinking of doing this for my big truck build.

i was wondering the same thing, it does bend with a little hand bender though so im not really sure

OK. So you are using 8/32 stainless all thread and 1/4 stainless tubing with jato or revo ends?

seen that done. saw the allthread snap clean off on a trail...

I use Jato whenever possible....I will trim the link in order to use Jato. Once in awhile though, a Revo link's shorter length works better. They are both great, but the longer thread engagement of the Jato makes me feel better.