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-   -   How To: Make your own links (http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/tools-procedures/349599-how-make-your-own-links.html)

OntarioCrawler 12-08-2011 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C*H*U*D (Post 3427353)
I use Jato whenever possible....I will trim the link in order to use Jato. Once in awhile though, a Revo link's shorter length works better. They are both great, but the longer thread engagement of the Jato makes me feel better.

ill be sure to update if i have a revo fail. i like the idea of the thread engagement on the jato's. testing and time will tell!

simon170 12-09-2011 05:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OntarioCrawler (Post 3427303)
seen that done. saw the allthread snap clean off on a trail...


What size thread was that? I plan to use 4mm, hopefully high grade steel.

OntarioCrawler 12-09-2011 05:54 AM

3 or 4mm. i dont remember, it was a truck i was running with. it was his steering link too lol.

simon170 12-09-2011 06:27 AM

Wouldnt advise this method then?

OntarioCrawler 12-09-2011 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simon170 (Post 3428091)
Wouldnt advise this method then?

well since it sheered clean off, the link couldnt be fixed easily. i think instead of tapping it, use a die and thread the rod. this give you one piece into the revo/jato end, and alot lees chance of breaking. i know ill be making a backup set of links for my crawlers in case something does in fact break.

Vanquish does the threaded rod into revo ends technique.

at about $2 a link, its 5X cheaper then anything else. you can also make them any shape, size length or color. i bought VP wraith upper links, its the last set ill ever buy. Making them is SOO easy its sad.

vp= $75 shipped for 4 links
home made = $10 for 4 links AT MOST.

so i can make 30 links for the same price.

now yes im using steel instead of titanium, but are you going to pay another $65 for that? dont get me wrong, they make great stuff. ill be running their chubs and knuckles, but thats because i cant make them with the tools i have.

Propane 12-17-2011 11:06 PM

Made some links and steering arms for my Wraith today. Used the 8/32 thread with 1/4" tube as a sleeve. I used Jato ends for the suspension links and Revo ends for my steering links. Very stout. Can't see having to replace these anytime soon.

SlickRockSpider 12-18-2011 10:12 AM

Re: How To: Make your own links
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by simon170 (Post 3426624)
Anyone ever used 10mm solid alloy rod with holes drilled and tapped in each end to take a thread for rod ends?

Thinking of doing this for my big truck build.


I have not used that big of a link, but I do the same thing and use set screws. Just like Axial. I have never seen a set screw break.

Evan

CREEPERBOB 12-18-2011 10:30 AM

Re: How To: Make your own links
 
What are the best ways to thread Titanium rod? Is there a special lube or does the die need to be made of a certain material?

CREEPERBOB 12-19-2011 04:44 PM

Re: How To: Make your own links
 
Bump.

SINister 12-19-2011 05:10 PM

Re: How To: Make your own links
 
Good looking links OntarioCrawler. I was wondering what brands of dies you guys are using? Seems there are a lot of different ones but some seem to cheap to be any good.

Bump on the info for making Ti links too...

OntarioCrawler 12-19-2011 06:15 PM

Re: How To: Make your own links
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by SINister (Post 3456416)
Good looking links OntarioCrawler. I was wondering what brands of dies you guys are using? Seems there are a lot of different ones but some seem to cheap to be any good.

Bump on the info for making Ti links too...

im using mastercraft ones. its a cheap set, but im only cutting steel. i polosh the links with a wire wheel on my drill press.

SINister 12-22-2011 09:46 AM

Re: How To: Make your own links
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by OntarioCrawler (Post 3456599)
im using mastercraft ones. its a cheap set, but im only cutting steel. i polosh the links with a wire wheel on my drill press.

Thanks for the info. What about threading 1/4 rod to 4mm for some heavy duty links? Would you need to turn down the rod to be able to use the die? I've used taps but never a die so sorry if it's a stupid question.

CREEPERBOB 12-22-2011 09:57 AM

Re: How To: Make your own links
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by SINister (Post 3462072)
Thanks for the info. What about threading 1/4 rod to 4mm for some heavy duty links? Would you need to turn down the rod to be able to use the die? I've used taps but never a die so sorry if it's a stupid question.


Yes there is a maximum O.D. for each tap to be able to start the threading process.
I still would like to know what type of tap is used on Titanium?

SINister 12-22-2011 10:11 AM

Re: How To: Make your own links
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by CREEPERBOB (Post 3462089)
Yes there is a maximum O.D. for each tap to be able to start the threading process.
I still would like to know what type of tap is used on Titanium?

Ok thanks. Heres a link to a thread on Ti links. Looks like correct OD, cutting fluid and quality dies is all you need or at least according to these guys.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/tools...anium-rod.html

jacobfreeman 12-22-2011 01:20 PM

Re: How To: Make your own links
 
I just bought some 8/32" all thread and 1/4" steel tube

and these rod ends:

Traxxas Jato Rod Ends (12) with hollow balls (12) #5525*-*Miscellaneous*-*-Suspension*-*The Crawlers Store LLC

The rods arent pre-threaded.. how will I need to thread these plastic rod ends for the all thread?

Thanks!

Propane 12-22-2011 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jacobfreeman (Post 3462374)
I just bought some 8/32" all thread and 1/4" steel tube

and these rod ends:

Traxxas Jato Rod Ends (12) with hollow balls (12) #5525 - Miscellaneous - -Suspension - The Crawlers Store LLC

The rods arent pre-threaded.. how will I need to thread these plastic rod ends for the all thread?

Thanks!

To get the threads straight I used a 8/32 tap. Get it at the local hardware store.

jacobfreeman 12-22-2011 06:35 PM

Thanks! Any suggestions on what to cut the all thread with besides dermal.. anyone know if bolt cutters would work?

OntarioCrawler 12-22-2011 08:26 PM

Re: How To: Make your own links
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by jacobfreeman (Post 3462837)
Thanks! Any suggestions on what to cut the all thread with besides dermal.. anyone know if bolt cutters would work?

side cutters, or bolt cutters will work fine, but mess it a little. id use a hack saw if ou have nothing else.

i use a angle grinder with a cut off wheel in my vise.

jacobfreeman 12-23-2011 01:04 AM

Re: How To: Make your own links
 
bolt cutters did the job.. not the prettiest but it threaded and works. "thumbsup"

transambill 12-23-2011 03:15 PM

Re: How To: Make your own links
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by OntarioCrawler (Post 3428788)
well since it sheered clean off, the link couldnt be fixed easily. i think instead of tapping it, use a die and thread the rod. this give you one piece into the revo/jato end, and alot lees chance of breaking. i know ill be making a backup set of links for my crawlers in case something does in fact break.

Vanquish does the threaded rod into revo ends technique.

at about $2 a link, its 5X cheaper then anything else. you can also make them any shape, size length or color. i bought VP wraith upper links, its the last set ill ever buy. Making them is SOO easy its sad.

vp= $75 shipped for 4 links
home made = $10 for 4 links AT MOST.

so i can make 30 links for the same price.

now yes im using steel instead of titanium, but are you going to pay another $65 for that? dont get me wrong, they make great stuff. I am running their chubs and knuckles, but thats because i cant make them with the tools i have.

x100

Always made my own and never had one fail.
8/32 all thred and 1/4 brake like with REVO ends.
I dont tap my ends tho, at lest not with a tap. I run a 8/32 screw down threw them then the all thred slides in snug.
When you tap a hole your removeing material and never thought that was a good idea with a plastic hole. I also cut all thred with a roto tool and clean up my cuts so theres clean threds there from the start. If the end's boogerd from the start it's a PITA to get started in the rod ends and then I wouldn't trust the threds once that boogerd end got to the bottom of the hole.


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