Re: Machinists Corner
 

Very cool bob "thumbsup"

Evan

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I've seen those square drilling heads before. LOTS of parts moving and some make it over complicated.
I like this one myself.

Friction drilling..
Flow Drilling - Friction Drilling - Form Drilling - YouTube

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Does anyone know where to find (or maybe get rid of one) a shank arbor with a 7/8" stub for mounting a involute cutter?
I have found all kinds with a 1" stub.

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I would check Enco and MSC as well as a local tooling supplier if you have one. You looking for one with a keyway or is it just a smooth bore?

You could also make one easily assuming it is a smooth bore.

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I have looked at those places and many others, I did find 1 for $111.00 :shock:, and yeah it needs a key for holding the cutter to the arbor.

http://images2.mcmaster.com/Contents...g?ver=24998661

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I dont know if it really "needs" the keyway, I have used plenty of saws mounted on arbors without a keyway and have never had an issue with them slipping even cutting hard material. Of course you wouldnt want to take huge cuts but you probably wouldnt want to do that with an expensive cutter like that anyways.

I will look around a bit and see if I find anything, I did look a little but havent found one yet. Seems like a bit of an oddball size, why didnt they make it 3/4" or 1"?

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Actually they list it at 22mm (.881) or 7/8" , China :roll:

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Well what do you know, E Bay comes through again , and it's a USA made :shock: arbor for $43.00 :mrgreen:

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I have a steel plate 2" thick cut to 6" X 7" by a torch and I need to bore a 1 1/2" hole through it and turn it down to 5 1/4" O.D. by 1 1/2" thick to produce the blank I need to make a gear from.
What would be the easiest way to accomplish this?
The 2" thick plate being so odd shaped, should I use cutoff wheels to trim down closer to size and turn to diameter I need with it mounted between centers or,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Thanks for any advice.

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Ok leave it two inches. Cut to a roundish shape but plenty over size. Chuck on the lathe on the .5" extra stock. Just slowly walk it in to the o.d. Just make sure to have plenty stock since it wont be center. I dont reccomend using centers because the part not being round will cut more in some areas and less in others causing it to spin on the centers and slip. When you get it to diameter cut the extra half inch and face both sides. Then chuck part again, indicate and drill

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And to think that I've been drilling like that for years using regular twist bits. :ror:

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Hmmm, would this require a 4 jaw chuck? That I do not have yet, I have outside jaws for my 6" 3 jaw chuck though. Also I do not have a faceplate yet either, though that will be on my shart list to come.

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Sounds like a pain.

You keep saying "turn". Do you have a lathe available? How about a mill? Cnc or manual?

It sounds like you could have started with a better piece of material. Your making a gear? Did you check mcmaster for blanks?

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Its actually not too much a pain. Unless you are in a hurry. Three jaw works just fine if you leave enough stock to clean up when you turn down to size.

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Yeah , a mill and lathe and another lathe that I need this gear for.
And yes, McMaster - $80.00, my piece $10.00.

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You can also do the opposite and drill a whole using an id chuck and turn it down chucking on the I.d.

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That's kind of my thought.
I was thinking that if I can get it shaped to a fairly round shape, center drill it, drill completely through it and then use a boring head to get my I.D. to fit the arbor I have which is the same size as the shaft it will eventually go on and the turn it to the O.D. I need. Then go from there.

It will eventually have to go to the arbor to mount between centers on my dividing head to cut the teeth.

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Yeah, It probably just sounds like a pain to me because I deal mostly with cnc these days.
I have a big chunk of 5.5" round 4340 layin here that I could chop you off a piece if you wanted. I could do the blank if you wanted but, by that time..youll probably be close to the price you mentioned above.

Edit: nevermind, I just saw that you have all those machines. You got it handled!

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Yeah that is probably your best bet. Don't bore completely to size though leave it slightly under if your tooling will allow that way you can do the o.d. And I.d. Parallel after you rough it and make it round., so pretty much you have to do the turning twice. First drill and bore. Then chuck on I.d. And do the od and face one side. Flip around and chuck on o.d. And indicate it in f ishii nish length and finish bore place in centers and do do the gear cutting. Which I have never done yet so if you could document the gear cutting i would like to see it done. Good luck. "thumbsup"

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Here are some pics of what I have and what the gear looks like, it is not your normal gear blank.