Re: Machinists Corner
 

Ewww!

I got something for ya"thumbsup"

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And I can't thank you enough "thumbsup", now what to do with the extra 20 hours you saved me 8).

Re: Machinists Corner
 

On another note, how good are you machinist's?
I have a complete set of 1:1 scale prints of a Harley knucklehead engine and also a set for the Harley 4 speed tranny. I also have them in 1/2 scale and 1/4 scale.

Re: Machinists Corner
 

I will be doing a write up on the gear cutting in my Smithy thread once I get everything in the mail "thumbsup".

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Now that I have a better understanding of what you have & what your trying to accomplish. Here's what I would do.

Starting with the round 5.5" x 2.0" cut length, chuck it up real tight and do all your work from one side. Rough the OD all the way back past your overall finish length then finish the OD. Rough the bore past the overall finish length finish the bore. I would highly recommend doing the OD & Bore from the same side if you want it to be concentric. It is a gear afterall.
Then, once you check your dimensions..flip it over and turn off the back until you get to your finish length.

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Thanks for the info , sounds like the easiest procedure. The side with the recess, the side with the pin head will be the easiest side to do first and to get the center hole done, the other side will need most of the cutting done on the mill becuase of the pin boss and the material needed for the counter weight area.

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I would finish bore it, put it on the arbor and go to town on the outside. Cut it as close as you can to finish od as you can before getting it on the lathe as it would take a while to go from square to circle otherwise and interrupted cuts are no fun.

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Have you thought about having a welder rebuild the missing teeth?
All you would have to do then is machine the new teeth and not re-invent the whole gear.

I would feel confident a good welder could build up material for you to cut new teeth.

Just a thought

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Its a cast gear so more than likely it will weld like shit and possibly brittle depending what its cast of out of. I've seen cast gears "repaired" by brazing it up and remachining the damaged teeth but thats iffy the reair isn't as strong as the surrounding teeth.

If you watch ebay you can pick up a decent used gear for not a god awful amount of money. But if you fancy a project, godspeed my friend."thumbsup"

I stripped a change gear in a small Clausing lathe and got a quote on a replacement from Clausing. They wanted like $3,000 for the gear with a 6-8 week lead time. I just bought a piece of rolled pinion wire from a manufacturer in the midwest that makes the stuff and machined the gear out, hardened it and fitted it. Costs under $100 in materials.

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Yes that has been an option, but I worked quite a few years in fab shops, I've welded a couple and saw a lot of them welded up and recut. I welded a 44" 52 tooth gear together that was the drive gear for a 20' long shear, it is still holding, but only turns about 6 RPM, sometimes they work after being welded for years, sometimes they go after 1 revolution, I think I'll go with the home made way "thumbsup"

Thanks for the advice though.

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Yep, this gear is still available from Logan, the pricetag,,,,,, $498.00 + shipping, of course if I count the cost of the indexing head, the involute cutter and arbor and the steel blank I'll have over that in this gear too.
But,,,,,,,, now I have a dividing head, an item very usefull on a mill and another running well setup and tooled lathe with many attachements so I still think I'm money way ahead, not to mention I'll have cut my first gear which will be helpful on a couple other projects I have in mind.

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Knowledge has no price tag in the end :lmao:

And why are replacement parts so darn expensive :shock: its terrifying :shock::shock:

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*deleted post*

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:mrgreen: :twisted: 8)

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Looks good, still waiting on that arbor?

There is a guy on youtube that cuts his own "gear hobs" technically they are not hobs because they are straight cutting not helical like a true hob is but anyways it is very cool. Basically the hob is the profile of the rack that would mesh with whatever gear you want to make, since a rack is very simple you can make these hobs on a lathe and then use them to cut a gear with almost any number of teeth (wont go down too low I think 12t is about the min). Might want to look into that if you want to make a wide range of gears in the future.

Here is his youtube channel, cool stuff!
Hobbynut - YouTube



Anyone know of a decently priced miniature drill chuck? Im looking for something smaller because with the rotary table and the 1/2" max chuck I have it eats up most of my z travel. Hopefully something that takes a 0JT taper so I can put it on a 1/2 straight shank and get it up tight to the collet. Everything I have found so far is like $50 and that is just more than I am willing to spend on a tiny chuck!

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Man , good luck on that litle chuck setup, where did you find one for $50.00? Thats about $100.00 less than most I've seen.

And I have the arbor, just waiting on a piece of round stock to be delivered.

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I found a couple of "decent" deals on Ebay for a 0JT chuck 0-5/32" capacity chucks but these people want like $20 to ship it or the price is $20 higher with free shipping. :roll:

I have found a bunch of import 1JT chucks 0-1/4" capacity but no one lists length so Im not sure if they will get me the clearance I am looking for.

If you are looking the deals on 1JT and up chucks they can be found at Grizzly and Shars (they both have basically the same stuff) and you can get a chuck and arbor for $20-30 but their shipping is expensive $9-14 and since I just placed an order with them last week I cant bring myself to spend another $10 on shipping when I only need one thing.

Ok so I have been in the trade for just over a year and am able to run the shop in absence of my boss. I want to further my career. I run cnc mill and hand lathe shad learning cnc lathe.
I have no schooling beyond highschool and the Marines. I'm ready to start using my G.I. Bill and want advice on classes and certs I should work towards. I plan on some kind of auto cad and business classes. But I am really interested on career specific stuff.


Sent from my over compensating smart phone.

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Bob I have some body in town that can braze teeth on a cast gear. Most towns do.

E

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Around here comunity colleges are where the machining courses are at. I took those many years ago and they were decent and were more about general guidelines then teaching you everything you need to know. I was working at a shop at the same time and my boss was teaching me along the way and that was more helpful than most of the calsses I took. Then I got a call from a buddy of mine from those machining classes and he had a job opertunity for me, I went for the interview and BS'd my way through it. Got the job and just kept learning and learning on the job.

Depending on the size of shop you are at or want to be at the usual progression up from operator is going to setup guy and then above that you are a programmer. I dont know what your skill level is at, are you already setting up the machines? Do you adjust parts into tolerance?

Machining is definitely a profession that is passed down from the guys that know more than you do, pick up as much as you can every day when you go to work. Ask questions and check out courses offered in your area on programming.

Luckily for us machining is an industry I dont see going away for a long time but with all the HS graduates going off to college there isnt really anyone learning how to do it, should be lots of opportunities when the old timers start retiring.