CR-10/Cura settings and profiles

[Ditchrat]

The 3d printing for RC parts thread is going strong. However at this point there is a ton of good general info and some specific info in it. Over the past couple weeks I have tuned my cr-10 and my Cura settings to a point where printing most files is set it and forget it. That being said there is just so much more to learn, different profiles for different filaments, even different colors of the same brands require different settings.


I though it might be useful if I made a thread where people can share profiles, prints(if they want) and tricks that make prints better. So instead of posting up asking for your stuff I'm going to start posting what I have that works, little by little as I do some prints.


Let me start with the printer.
I'm using a Creality CR-10.

Current mods:
CR-10s leveling wheel for 17.75mm thumb screws

Wisamic Clear Borosilicate Glass Heat Bed 300x300x3mm for 3D Printers Prusa, Tevo Tornado, Mendela, AO Series

This was a small investment with huge returns. With purple glue nothing comes off, and I can print on the entire bed now.


Here is the first profile that I will share. It is taken from several youtube videos and other profiles.


Fine pla 0.2 layer with support, 8% infill.



Currently works well with ecase filament, but is really tuned for hatchbox.
1.75pla, with a .4 nozzle, best results from white. The glow in the dark is pretty good also, however I generally have to turn the nozzle temp from 200 to 210 after the first 1/4 inch, otherwise it can get grainy.

I am printing something tonight using this profile and will post pictures when it is complete.

[Ditchrat]

Ecase blue pla 200 degree noozle, 60 degree bed. Support turned off, using the above profile. 6.5 hour print time. Print in two parts, head and body.










Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk

[Robbob]

Have you tried printing at a lower temp, just like 195 range? I only ask because the the layers in your picture look stringy like the filament was too hot. I was printing pla at 200-210 for a while but noticed when I started printing at 195 area it came out much better and overall smoother on the outer walls.

To me it seemed I was too hot to layers gave me stringy walls. I know different brands can vary in temps but so far 3 brands and I keep using the same profile/temps in Cura.

[Ditchrat]

I have done some temp adjustments to avoid stringy prints. When i drop down to 185 with this filament I start getting poor layer adhesion, 200 completely resolves that. However a couple degrees can make a world of difference, i can try backing it down a bit.



If I bump the bed temp to 70 I get warping.


This is my general purpose print for speed/quality compromise. This print had none of the typical stinginess from over extruding and the fan blowing those fine strings that i see at 210 degrees.



Would you mind circling in one of the pictures what you are refering to?
Thanks for the reply and feedback. Anything that results in better prints or less fails is welcome.

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by Ditchrat

I have done some temp adjustments to avoid stringy prints. When i drop down to 185 with this filament I start getting poor layer adhesion, 200 completely resolves that. However a couple degrees can make a world of difference, i can try backing it down a bit.



If I bump the bed temp to 70 I get warping.


This is my general purpose print for speed/quality compromise. This print had none of the typical stinginess from over extruding and the fan blowing those fine strings that i see at 210 degrees.



Would you mind circling in one of the pictures what you are refering to?
Thanks for the reply and feedback. Anything that results in better prints or less fails is welcome.

Ya I was surprised with my A8 and CR8 knock off how just a couple degrees could change things up a bit.

My main machine (A I was getting warping problems that I linked to bed temp. I was running about 65* so went up to 70* thinking it was adhesion. After reading a few various things I tried dropping my bed to 60* and lowered my initial fan to 30% then regular to 70%, havent warped anything since. I also increased my brim count to 8 instead of 3 like Cura was telling me. All together it helped.

I read how warping was actually cooling, the material pulling against the corners. I figured lowering the bed and fan speeds would let the material cool a bit slower and have a few layers above to help it. So far its worked well for me with that thinking, less shrinkage for sure. I just use the glass and wipe it down with alcohol before every print.

[Ditchrat]

You know that really isn't noticeable in person, but is amazing the details today's cameras pick up. Things that look good in person can really look bad in pictures.



But since you noticed it and pointed it out I am going to have to address it Thanks(both sarcastic and genuine)



I'm thinking that it might be blob or zits. Maybe I need to adjust the retraction a little bit?

[odomandr]

that groot is pretty cool none the less

[Ditchrat]

Today's episode Adventures in ABS.


Long story short, I wanted a darker red filament for a project and accidentally ordered it in ABS. Not wanting to hold off I said F-it and tried out the ABS.



I was expecting major heating issues. However I was really surprised that the cr-10 was able to maintain the heat at higher temperature. I will be building a box, however for the time being I have turned off the fan, raised the nozzle to 230, bed to 100 and covered the machine with a tarp to knock down the draft.


This print was done using a .06 layer, 30% infill.

So here is what is going on here. I am putting a fresh dingo body on my rig and wanted to take the time to make some adjustments. The rig has both front and rear winches, and the used a Cherokee front bumper as the rear. It would get hung something awful. I decided to design my own including features I wanted. In this case I wanted an electronics deck, and wanted to move the winch internally so that I could get better departure angle.



These is the top of the part but the bottom of the print. The support was very strong and I will need to change those setting. However after a little sanding it came out ok. I know I could spend time on it to really make it nice, but its just an internal part.


I am using a esc as a winch controller, since it is water proof I just made a frame for it and used mounting tape to hold it on the deck. The frame to the left will be for some other electronic stuff, light controller, 5v BEC maybe some other stuff. Not sure how I am going to finish it, I might make a cover.


I needed some shackle mounts, and didn't think a design feature would hold up. I created some divits and tapped holes. I used some stainless eye screws to make mounts. You can also see the built in fairlead.


Here is the bumper tucked up on the old body


I just can't believe how this came out in ABS, this was literally the first print. No test or calibration prints, nothing other then 3 false starts and I adjusted the beds leveling to get good adhesion. Second print came off this morning, no pictures yet, but the finish came out just as good.