Brazing Stainless wont stick?

[TITANIUM94010]

I've tried brazing a stainless cage with Saftey Silv 56 and SSFW-7 white flux, but it just doesn't seem to stick well. The solder doesn't flow well on 304 stainless tubing, and falls right off afterwards.

I've done cages in brake line, and it works extremely well But, stripping the coating off brake line is a pain and it doesn't look as clean as stainless.

Everything I've come up across on google says that 304ss can be brazed/silver soldered with saftey silv 56, but I just can't get it to stick.

I'm using a propane blowtorch

Help

[Ots]

Sounds like a temperature problem.

You may need more heat.

[tigris99]

Your using propane that's why.

MAPP gas. Or better yet the Mapp oxygen little set up. Like a mini oxy-acetylene torch.

Stainless isn't getting hot enough.

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[HumboldtEF]

Yep a MAPP torch works on stainless for me.

[TITANIUM94010]

Ok, got it. I suspected the temperature not being high enough but wasn’t sure.

Does Map-pro work?
I can’t easily get mapp gas here

[tigris99]

Map pro is basically the same. Thats qhat i was referring to. Just more compatible with propane torch heads. Yellow bottles.

The Mapp oxygen set up I was referring to basically adds the little red oxygen tank to the mix, uses the yellow Mapp (map pro) bottles too. Probably pick it up at hardware store where you get the map pro (likely same rack). Just 2 hoses with tank fittings and a little mini torch head. Used to be like $30. Works much better for brazing steel in any form, much faster and focused heat.

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[ferp420]

brazing and soldering are 2 different things soldering is low heat brazing is high heat and stainless solders at a lower temp than copper i use a standerd soldering iron when soldering stainless a torch gets the metal to hot also you have to sand the joints and get them real clean or it wont have any holding power

[TITANIUM94010]

Originally Posted by tigris99

Map pro is basically the same. Thats qhat i was referring to. Just more compatible with propane torch heads. Yellow bottles.

The Mapp oxygen set up I was referring to basically adds the little red oxygen tank to the mix, uses the yellow Mapp (map pro) bottles too. Probably pick it up at hardware store where you get the map pro (likely same rack). Just 2 hoses with tank fittings and a little mini torch head. Used to be like $30. Works much better for brazing steel in any form, much faster and focused heat.

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Ok, thanks. I’ll pick up a bottle and give it a try. I bought a multiprocess tig to weld cages, but it dosent amp low enough to weld tube at my skill, works well for soldid rod cages though.

[TITANIUM94010]

Originally Posted by ferp420

brazing and soldering are 2 different things soldering is low heat brazing is high heat and stainless solders at a lower temp than copper i use a standerd soldering iron when soldering stainless a torch gets the metal to hot also you have to sand the joints and get them real clean or it wont have and holding power

Yeah, from what I read some people call it brazing others soldering, was always a bit confused about which is which, especially when safety silv is referred
to as silver solder but used in brazing.


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[tigris99]

Brazing rod is not solder, 2 very different things. Safety silver is for soldering plumbing. Very similar task but very different purposes.

One is to bond and seal a a fitted sleeve joint nothing more.

Brazing is more equal to welding not soldering in that it's used for light duty structural joints.

Do not use silver plumbing solder for brazing, will not have the strength that proper brass alloy Brazing rod will.

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[TITANIUM94010]

For future reference, I found my solution:

You want to heat the joint slowly, starting with the tip of the flame to begin to melt the flux, then moving to the brighter inner flame to heat the piece to a soft red glow.

After some digging I found that heating it too quickly causes the flux to lose it's flux properties.

As for Map-pro or propane, either will do, Map-pro heats it a little quicker but propane achieves the same results. If doing solid rod work, map-pro is noticeably quicker though.

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by TITANIUM94010

For future reference, I found my solution:

You want to heat the joint slowly, starting with the tip of the flame to begin to melt the flux, then moving to the brighter inner flame to heat the piece to a soft red glow.

After some digging I found that heating it too quickly causes the flux to lose it's flux properties.

As for Map-pro or propane, either will do, Map-pro heats it a little quicker but propane achieves the same results. If doing solid rod work, map-pro is noticeably quicker though.

You need to be careful with your temps when your parts start glow your flux is getting ready to burn. As soon as the flux turns clear and starts to run it is ready for the safety silv. When the solder starts to flow I pull the flame back a little so I don't over heat my joint. Just my 2 cents worth.
Ernie