An impulsive purchase, really.

[tcanin00]

As stated, this was an impulse buy since I have so many started projects in various stages of completion. I followed the development of this truck back when it in the rumored stage, and wanted to get one whenever it became available.
Fast forward to last week when at trip to my LHS ended with a TRX 4 kit. Nothing like a new toy turck to make you feel like a kid on Christmas morning. I'll use the Vaterra K-5 body that my better half picked the color of, since most of turcks are dark colors.
First off, the instructions are in color and straight forward. Every sub assembly is individually bagged with hard ware. Traxxas included some basic tools and grease, but I think the t-handle is a nice touch.

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[tcanin00]

Be advised though. I read about some of the early RTR's having quality control issues.
The low range input gear was not machined to the right inside diameter for the sealed bearing. Make sure the bearing fits with minimal effort. If not, do not force it and contact Traxxas and have it replaced under warranty.
That being said, I figured a bit of persuasion from a cross-slide vice would press the bearing in nicely.
Wrong answer.

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[tcanin00]

For the sake of completion, I built the rest of the transmission while the $14 gear was ordered and on the way.
Next up was to build the differentials. They're regular spider geared open diffs. The locker engages the outside of the carrier with a toothed ring. Pretty well thought out. The toothed ring is engaged by a cable operated selector fork.
Then it's time to compete the axles by building the portals. They look like very strong pieces with a lot of gear tooth engagement. Plus they bring to total axle ratio to 7:1. I thought it was interesting that the bearing for the input gear is held in by three screws.
Assembled front axle with steering linkage.

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[JatoTheRipper]

Wow. How much force did it take to break that gear?

[tcanin00]

Assembly of the rear axle with the same as the front. Once assembled, I had to throw tires on it and test fit it under the Blazer. They're almost an an exact match in width, and the tires tuck pretty good.
Now it's time to attach those axles to something, like a frame. The frame made of fairly thick steel and should be pretty rigid. It's kind of difficult to assemble the frame initially, because you have to hold the servo crossmember, inner fender, and frame together while trying to get screws started. After that bit of fumbling it's pretty easy, though.
I'm a little concerned about how low the skid plate is. I understand the design in trying to get the COG as low as possible, but I think it hang up a bit.

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[tcanin00]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Wow. How much force did it take to break that gear?

Not much. This is the vice that I broke it with. The handle isn't very long, so not much leverage was applied.

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[tcanin00]

Things really get busy with the addition of the electronics. The manual shows everything nearly tucked away in the radio box. In reality, you have to fold them up and shove them out of the way, put the lid on, tighten the screws, and hope to god you never have to open it again.
From this point it starts looking like a toy turck. The front axle has a lot of negative caster. Should help with steering angle. Then I had to set the body on to do some posing, otherwise this wouldn't be a proper build.

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[tcanin00]

By this time the new input gear came in, so I tore down the transmission to replace it. This body was pre-drilled, so I made adaptors when it was on an SCX 10. I used those in place of the Traxxas body posts, since they didn't line up with the holes. The SSD wheels are intended for another project, but they look the part on this Blazer.
Now onto scientific research at my mother in law's house. Initially I'm impressed. To be completely stock other than wheels, this thing pulled some lines that are difficult for a Wraith. Not too bad for a 1.9 scaler. I think it could stand a bit more gear, somewhere in the 7-9 tooth rage opposed to the stock 11. I know New2rocks suggested shorter shocks, and I agree. The GTS shocks are great, but something in the 80mm range should be right. More to follow...

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[Druxus]

I think i would have teared up a bit if i snapped that gear in half like that.

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[tcanin00]

Originally Posted by Druxus

I think i would have teared up a bit if i snapped that gear in half like that.

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I was pretty upset, since it meant no new toy until I ordered a new gear.

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[crazy_eddie]

That Blazer body is sweet!

[OldNASCARCrawler]

We just bought the kit this past weekend.

Will be extra careful with the bearing assembly

Thanks

[tcanin00]

Originally Posted by OldNASCARCrawler

We just bought the kit this past weekend.

Will be extra careful with the bearing assembly

Thanks

Just make sure the bearing fits with minimal effort. I had measured both and the ID was within .25 mm, so I figured it was a press fit. The new gear was shiny in there area that was machined, while the old one was not.

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[number9]

How well does the K5 body work / match the inner fenders?

Did you have to trim the inner fenders to drop the K5 body on?

The inner fenders are visible in your pics, like the K5 fenderwells are taller than the inner fenders? If so, can the body be lowered on the chassis to get the inner fenders up inside the wheel wells?

[tcanin00]

Originally Posted by number9

How well does the K5 body work / match the inner fenders?

Did you have to trim the inner fenders to drop the K5 body on?

The inner fenders are visible in your pics, like the K5 fenderwells are taller than the inner fenders? If so, can the body be lowered on the chassis to get the inner fenders up inside the wheel wells?

The K5 fits over the inner fenders without any trimming.
The body was up high because of the bumper mounts. Since then, I flipped them over and swapped them front to rear. Doing this gave me enough clearance to lower the body a 1/2". I'll get some better pictures up at some point.

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[tcanin00]

Pictures as promised, number9.
The tires rub, but I don't want want to cut the fenders.

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[number9]

Thanks tcanin00. Looks good! What size are the tires - how tall are they?

Do the factory rock sliders work with the body?

[tcanin00]

Originally Posted by number9

Thanks tcanin00. Looks good! What size are the tires - how tall are they?

Do the factory rock sliders work with the body?

They're Pit Bull Rock Beast XL's and they're 4.65", not much bigger than the stock tires.
The sliders would be too low, even with lowering the body. The rockers are pretty close to even with the floor boards.

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[Inspector86]

Originally Posted by tcanin00

From this point it starts looking like a toy turck. The front axle has a lot of negative caster. Should help with steering angle. Then I had to set the body on to do some posing, otherwise this wouldn't be a proper build.

Actually the TRX4 steering is set up with Positive Caster.

[tcanin00]

Originally Posted by Inspector86

Actually the TRX4 steering is set up with Positive Caster.

How so? Negative caster would be angled to the back of the truck. I know the large C hubs would cause steering geometry problems in real life.
Dodge manufactured portal axles with large C hubs to accommodate the portal assembly for a very limited number of trucks, Jeep Wrangler JR's, and for aftermarket use. They worked awesome off road, but the large separation of the kingpins (or ball joints) in comparison to the center line of the wheel caused the steering to lose stability above 45mph. I'll try to find the link from one of the off road magazines that reviewed them.

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