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Edit: Pics of the Event T-shirts! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psw9fl80rs.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psfisy2qlw.jpg |
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Re: Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER excellent thread nate. im running the k10 and I am working on mounting sway bar. I like how you went thru frame under esc but i don't have clearance after relocating rear upper links. actually had to shim esc up to prevent contact. did you have this problem? I don't see sway bar in your latest pics. |
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Re: Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER I've got the itch to go WB4 with the K0 body and cage bed setup. Currently the K10 sits at a modified setting to achieve WB3, see below. Been measuring and thinking. WB1 = 278mm (10.95 inches) WB2 = 290mm (11.4 inches) WB2 + 12mm rear links = 302mm (11.9 inches) WB3 = 302mm (11.9 inches) WB4 = 314mm (12.36 inches) Thinking about drilling new holes in frame and moving shock towers back, maybe swapping side to side, might also reverse rear frame X member that rx box mounts too. Might need to grind the unused body mounts off of them. Would need to remount the fuel cell rx box. Only about 10mm between rear of rx box and rear cage/body mounts and need some space here for cage to flex on hard rollover impacts. Checking it out with my spare frame mock up, might be easier just to make some aluminum upper shock mount plates and move the top of the shocks back 12mm that way. Wonder how much longer the Pro-Line 1966 Ford cab is, might make up the difference in body length to use this on WB4. Saw a guy post here and had what looked like black 3D printed extra rollcage hoop with printed in spacers to go between cab and cage/bed. Looking and can't find the posting dangit, looked really good and then just make my own plates for sides and bed top with extra length to match. |
Re: Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER I originally typed this up for the VP Future Options (new products) thread, http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vater...-vanquish.html but copy/pasted it here in my thread to give it more exposure. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Been thinking about this, there are several reasons that non-Vaterra aftermarket parts sales for Ascender parts have not been as good as some vendors may have hoped for. When the Ascender first released a bunch of peeps had diff gears break and plastic driveshafts twist off like licorice, everybody got scared and sold off their Ascenders for cheap, abandoning some really nice build threads here on RCC and elsewhere. Vaterra stepped up and very quickly released redesigned pinion gears with better metallurgy and thicker driveshafts made of stronger fiber reinforced plastic, fixing the two main problems. Vaterra also release a whole slew of very high quality machined aluminum parts for the Ascender at the same time the very well thought out and engineered truck was released, thus decreasing the need and consumer demand for aftermarket parts. Stronger CVDs that can handle abuse with slipper locked down, 3S/4S lipos and brushelss motors and a TT (torque twist) solution were pretty much all that remained. Vaterra has beefed up their CVDs, now Vanquish has released VVDs, problem solved! I'm waiting for VP VVDs to be in stock to purchase for my trucks. TT has been almost eliminated with rear swaybars and RULR type rear link setups in conjunction with outboarded rear shocks. We have been mostly ignored for over two years by the aftermarket companies. The few companies that have stepped up have been hit and miss, we asked for something and they gave us what they thought we wanted, not what we've been loudly asking for. When we provided input telling them what to change on their product(s), many ignored us again and then said that sales could be better. Therefore most Ascender peeps have learned to make do and build the parts ourselves. I really enjoy my Ascenders and keep crawling with them and letting anybody test drive them, because I believe in them. I can't wait to see what we can do with VP VVDs, axles, pinion input shafts, etcetera! Thanks and looking forward to some great new products! "thumbsup" |
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When I get home I need to do some investigating. I had an idea pop in my brain as I was typing but it could be one of my crazy ideas so before I let the cat out of the bag, I'll look first. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk |
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Well, get on it lol. Hope it's good one, thought about buying another bed cage just to get a second hoop, but kinda wasteful, parts might interlock like I want...gotta look at that, would be worth the price to me! "thumbsup" |
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Plan B is hack up a couple RC4WD Blazer bodies and make a hard body extended cab/crew cab truggy [emoji15] A fella can dream.... Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk |
Re: Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER Answer to our question is yes. With proper spacers and longer hardware this can be done with a second cage. I really like how it would look too. I, on the other hand just took a drastic turn in my planning. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk |
Re: Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER Cool, thanks we're thinking on the same page. Plan B would be nice too, little more money and lot more work but would look awesome. :) Thanks for confirmation that will work, probably 1/8" or little longer spacers? Hmmm, post your drastic turn I think it might be pretty sweet too. 8) Anybody have the Proline 66 Ford cab they can place next to K10 cab with ruler and snap a pic with length differences, mounting holes etc? |
Re: Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER Depending on how much space you want to fill, you could use the Vaterra link spacers to fill the space nicely. Just use the longer hardware to bolt the secondary hoop to the 6? holes that aren't used to attach the cab to the cage. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk |
Re: Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER Awesome read! Only took a couple days but wrote down TONS of notes. Thank you! One question, what size drill bit is used to drill out the shock plunger? I seen #5 or #55, but what is that in standard drill bit sizes? Second, would it be ok to drill out the front and run 20wt both in the front and back shocks or is 20 to thin with the holes? Thanks again for all the great info!!!! |
Re: Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER Thanks Ascender'nMN84! Scoutsout thanks and drill both shock piston holes with #55 drill bit. I use 30wt oil, but you can try 20. Maybe 20wt front and 30 rear but I like 30 all around. #55 = 0.0520". 3/64" is slightly smaller so maybe good with 20wt. 1/16" slightly bigger so good for 30wt or little thicker. http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-drillsize.htm |
Re: Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER Thanks to userids: Hillbillrc and Durok! 8) Measured my K10 and Honchos, height can be trimmed some and my Honcho has about 1/4" iirc trimmed off the bottom edge. K10 has not been trimmed. K10..........Cab..............Bed Length......9.25".............8" Width.......8".................8" Height......4.75"............4.375" Honcho.....Cab..............Bed Length.....11.3"..............6.75" Width........7.5"..............7" Height.......5.125"...........4.3125" According to Proline: 1966 Ford F-100 Cab Length.....11.125" (283mm) Width........8" (203mm) Height.......6" (152mm) 85 Toyota HiLux Cab Length.....11.31" (287mm) Width........8.0" (203mm) Height.......5.25" (133mm) |
Re: Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER Vanquish VP parts, my VVDs are here and they look great! I can't wait to install and test, but working on some link mount project with the K10 at same time. 8) Part number VPS08201, in stock at RPP Hobby: https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/vps08201.htm http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psrtnhtl6w.jpg Bought STRC rear axle upper link mount to check it out and maybe use as part of a lifted and rearward mounted setup on the axle. Nice looking parts, I bought gunmetal color but they have black and silver too. Part number: STV232074RGM, in stock at RPP Hobby: https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/sptstv232074rgm.htm http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psdqeycq70.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...pskpowoo45.jpg |
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