Full size shift servo hitting roll cage.

[zanthrax]

After ruining both the stock shift servo and a Hitec 225bb within 2 packs each I decided to grease my transmission and to try to build in a full size servo, a Traxxas 2075.
The mechanism is a lot smoother now and even if my TH eats another servo I'll have more replacement options.
The mod itself was pretty easy using an Axial SCX10 servo plate, it just required drilling and countersinking one hole using the original servo as a template.

I noticed after mounting the servo that the interior panel bulged a little from the taller servo under it but that's ok. I also had trouble getting the 4 screwholes on the bottom to line up. After a little squeezing I managed to get everything shut.



Now this plastic beam in the cage is pressing on the servo, will this be a problem and is there a fix for it?

[northkona]

I've been running mine like this for months with no issues but what you described as the interior bulging. I did start making another interior but it ended up in the "too hard" basket and I went back to the original.

[donuts]

Yep. Been using the RPP Gear Head full-size servo mount plate. Takes a little "persuasion" to get the interior and cage on. Bugs a little at first, but you get used to it.

[Dustinf]

Did anyone ever find a fix to this? I plan to build a full interior and don't want to give up the room. But good hv mini servos are either expensive or hard to find.

[joe007]

If your stock interior is rubbing, just put some small plastic spacers under each screw that holds it down.

[TimeBomb572]

I've gone to a standard size servo on an axial wraith steering servo mount, and I have my linkage binding up all the time on the 2-1 shift. The factory Vaterra "servo-saver" like collar on the servo works well, but most of the time on that downshift it ends up with the servo running through its travel and the spring-collar just twisting and not actually engaging the gear.

I realize this isn't the same issue as above but I figured all of you guys that are running the standard servo could help out haha. Have any of you experienced this and how did you correct it? Are my end points set wrong? It feels like the gears in the transmission simply don't mesh well on that 2-1 shift. I end up having to shift it by hand with a little blip of the throttle. Even when driving in high gear and I give it a blip on the downshift (or not, but still let it roll) it will go half way through the shifter travel into neutral, and then bind up solid until I can walk over and get a finger on the linkage to coax it in. I've tried setting endpoints better but it doesn't seem to be an endpoint issue as much as it is the trans requiring more effort to get it into low gear than the spring collar on the servo can give it.

EDIT: Was a slow day at work and got to do some crawling on our lifts and piles of sloppy auto parts haha. Eventually decided to reset my servo end points, and after increasing the travel I can actually shift on the fly now without any issues. On my DX4E I had High at 34% and low at 70%. I ended up with the high at the same spot and low at 120. Worked perfect. I must have been drunker than I thought when I set the end points the first time... o.O

-Travis

[meatmonkey]

When I initially purchased my Twin Hammers kit I wasn't aware that it needed a mini-servo to shift. I tried shoe-horning a full-size servo in place but wasn't happy with all the contact with the "dash bar". As a temporary measure, I ditched the interior and used an ancient Traxxas servo that had all the mounting tabs broken off from it's last life in a Stampede that broke the nose off of the chassis. Mounting required some Goop, and creative Zip tying. But it worked till I could source a proper mini servo.

I'm still not sure how people are fitting a full size servo that still has the ears intact?

For all those with shifting concerns I suggest polishing the "shift shaft" where it slides through the trans case with emory cloth, and lightly sanding all the edges of the mating surfaces on the lower trans gears and the selector between them. These two things made shifting much smoother and easier. If it's really cold out it will still occasionally "click" a few times before finding high gear. Not sure why.

[Kleebatch]

uhm i went the opposite way on my kit by using a wing servo (hope it's the correct definition) mounted on a self made mount, works like a charm.


Claudio